Lost 110 power, can't get it back.

Campwise

This is the second year I have winterized via the compressor blowout method on our 2018 320S.  The t@b was connected to 110AC so I could use the interior lights.  The compressor was plugged into a garage outlet, and pressure was kept below 50.    

Everything went fine (I was foolishly feeling a bit cocky, Oh yeah, I’ve got this!).  But then, the final winterizing task I did (and for the first time) was to disconnect lines to the water pump, wrap it in a towel, and turn the pump on/off a few times to help it drain.  A few tablespoons of water was released and I reconnected the hoses.  Immediately following…the power started rapidly turning on and off, then off. 

I fussed several times with the exterior connection and got flickering power for a few seconds, then none.  I flipped the converter breakers on/off but no power was on when I did that so I don’t know if it accomplished anything - and checked the garage connection, which was fine.  Still no power.

Could I have accidentally disconnected something while emptying the water pump?  It’s very hard to see back there.

For both 110 and 30amp, the exterior connection has always been a bear to wrestle into compliance.  Never easy.  Could it be broken?  Can it be repaired or replaced, maybe with an easier to use connector?   

~  As always, thanks to the Forum knowledge sharers. 

ChanW

You say both 110 and 30amp. 110 is 30A. Are you talking about two different connections?
Also, the interior lights don't require 110V, because they run on 12V from the battery. If it's the lights that were flickering, it was your 12V system causing it.
So it's not clear what you're saying.
#1, Is your battery fully charged?

Sharon_is_SAM

Unplug from AC and turn on the battery switch - do the lights, Alde panel, pump, etc now work?  What does the battery monitor indicate?

Was the compressor and TaB plugged into the same garage circuit?  

Campwise

Didn't know 30amp is 110V, thanks for clarifying.  The battery was and is fully charged.  12V electrical is fully functional, including the Alde panel and pump.  The Tab and compressor were plugged into the same circuit - which continues to operate normally, and no house breakers were tripped.  I tried connecting the Tab to house power again, and this time heard an electrical buzzing sound at the connection, so disconnected it immediately.  I'll buy a new 15/30 pigtail, in case the seldom used 2 yr old one is Kaput.  And if that doesn't work, I'll take it in for a checkup, unless there's something else to consider and try.  Thanks       

Sharon_is_SAM

Are you using a surge protector, too?

ChanW

Buzzing coming from the house outlet? or the Tab connection?

If the buzzing is at one of these places, I'd check the screw terminals inside the house receptacle or the Tab connector to be sure the screws/wire isn't loose inside there.

Or, if the buzzing is coming from the converter inside the Tab, turn off the power to the Tab, and turn off the battery switch, and check the connections on the back of the converter (inside the bench).

Let us know what you find out. We always prefer a happy ending!

Tabster

Check your ground fault connector. Could just need to be reset. They go bad fairly often. Easy fix. $13 for a new one. That was my problem when my 110 failed

Campwise

The sizzling, crackling sound came from where the 15/30 pigtail plugs into the t@b, but I don't know which end made the sound - pigtail or connector.  I plugged it in again.  Now all is quiet, with no flickering or power (except 12V when the battery is turned on). 

The house outlet that the functioning heavy-duty extension cord was plugged into works fine, and I tried a different outlet and different cord - still no power. I use a surge protector at campsites, but haven't been when plugged into the house.

Could you please tell me how to check the Tab connector?  The three screws on the exterior rim were just a tad loose, and the ones under the flap were firmly tight.  Or do you mean remove the connector to check screws and wires? 

Also, where is, and how do I check, the ground fault connector?  For Star Trek fans:  “Jim, I’m a nurse not an electrician!” 

With genuine appreciation, I won't mind being told its time to call in the professionals.  On the other hand, I love learning new skills, and every step in the Tab learning curve is worthwhile. 

Bayliss

@Campwise, you wrote in your original post that "the exterior connection has always been a bear to wrestle into compliance."   You did not specify what the issue is with making the connection, but I wonder if what is occurring is that you are not making a good connection when attaching the 30A electrical cord to the trailer.  If the connection is loose, that may account for the crackling sound.

You may already know this, but just in case . . . . . . . . . when attaching the 30A twist-lock plug to the trailer outlet, you initially will have the yellow connector on the cord turned slightly to the left as you push it in to make the electrical connection.  Once connected, turn the yellow connector to the right to lock in the connection.  Although you don't necessarily have to do it, you should also screw the threaded ring (locking adapter ring) onto the threads at the outlet.  That often takes a bit of practice, and you want to be careful not to cross-thread it, but it will make a firmer weatherproof attachment.

ChanW

I can't say how to open the connector up to examine the interior wire connections, because I've never done it.

First, smell the pigtail to see if it smells like burning plastic. Might be smart to replace it if at all in doubt. Simple things are easier to try!

Have you tried just looking inside the Tab to see if you can get a view of how/where the internal wire is connected to that fitting, and if you can spot any burned areas caused by the 'sizzling'.

Also trace where that incoming wire runs, and look at where it connects to the converter for burns. A loose connection would cause sizzling and arcing/burning.

If you're going to venture into taking things apart... 

FIRST BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF, & THE BATTERY IS DUSCONNECTED.

Those three screws holding the outer flange to the Tab body would be a place to start disassembling, if you feel you can do it. You'll probably want a single-edge razor blade to cut the sealant under the flange too.

Or you could hire an RV shop or an electrician, to be safe. 

rhyno

@Campwise - if you have a voltmeter you could check both ends of the pigtail (unplugged of course) for continuity. If there is something fried inside of it then it should show no continuity. There is no need to strip the plug in your case but this vid shows the basics... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cP0jLKtOnYI
If continuity is good you could plug the pigtail into home power and see if you have good voltage on the end that would plug into your rv to rule that out. 

BrianZ

@Campwise, show us your pigtail, if possible.
Did you say you are plugging the pigtail into the T@B?  Shouldn't you be plugging the T@B 30A cable into the T@B, and that into the pigtail, then pigtail into house outlet or extension cord?  Does your pigtail look like the one shown in rhyno's photo/video above?

SweetlyHome

@BrianZ,  There are two styles of 30 amp/15amp adapters.  I own both.  

30 Amp locking female receptacle to 15 Amp standard male.  Fits the T@B to allow use of a standard 15 amp extension cord.https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55636-PowerGrip-Dogbone-Adapters/dp/B06XGX3WDT/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=91GBS1F825VJQ932R8SM

30 Amp Female to 15 Amp standard male connector.  This adapts the 30 Amp "extension cord" to a 15 amp receptacle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BUU5YA?pf_rd_r=QGZXNFJ125WR97P44NVE&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

The first I use primarily at home.  I got tired of getting out the 30 Amp cord, never unrolling it, adding the second style adapter, and using a 15 amp extension cord.

The other I use at the campground.  Run the 30 amp cord and adapt it to 15 amps at the pedestal when needed.

BrianZ

Thanks, @SweetlyHome.
We only use the 30A cable, so have only the one adapter for home use.  We've never had any issues with our 30A cable twist connector, so I couldn't see how someone could have so much trouble with making the connection. But maybe it's more of a challenge to manufacture a high quality adapter with a twist connector.

SweetlyHome

@BrianZ and @Campwise  I forgot about this experience.  
I had a 2012 T@B until last February. Last summer after 7 years of use  I had to replace the 30 Amp locking female receptacle on my 30 amp cord.  Connection was difficult and unreliable.  Wiggling and twisting harder worked for awhile.  The male contacts on the T@B looked great.

 I disassembled the cord end and found damage to one of the contacts.  We were on the road so a replacement end was needed quickly.  Paid about $30? at Camping World.  While technically not more difficult than replacing the end of a regular extension cord it was physically demanding.  The water tight seals are tight.

That fixed the problem.

BrianZ

Good story to know about, @SweetlyHome.
I can see how this particular connection design might be prone to damage for a couple of reasons.  First, if the correct sequence (push completely in, twist right, screw collar down tight; unscrew collar, twist left, pull out) is not carefully followed, parts may get bent or damaged.  Second, if the collar is not screwed down, there may be more tendency to bend or damage contacts if the cord gets bumped or pulled.  I suspect that despite such a design intended to prevent the plug from working loose, the increased complexity may present more opportunities for wear & failure unless handled with extra care, or even manufacturing failure to meet tolerances in design.

Campwise

I agree that the outlet requires careful connecting.  We do twist right then tighten the collar, and reverse when removing.  But it has felt loose every time, even with careful collar tightening.  Plugging in has always caused a gravity/weight pull down that feels like a slight disconnect, but this is the first time there's been a problem.  Thank you for the Amazon links (the adapter isn't available in or near our rural town).  I followed directions on the YouTube video for checking continuity, but couldn't get multimeter readings on any plugs...  The 30amp female end does smell a little smokey, so maybe it arc'd and burned out.  Fingers crossed that replacing the adapter will fix the problem!  And thank you to everyone.  

Tampakayaker

And this will get rid of the dreaded fine threaded screw on ring, that seems to take as much time to securely screw on as setting up the rest of the camp!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDY3KZJ/?coliid=I27161YWBEV0XW&colid=125JQV28Y904S&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This replacement ring has been posted on other threads about power problems. 

This is an Amazon review

This ring replaces the standard screw on ring used to make an RV shore power cord connection weather tight. The difference is that this does not require matching the threads, which invariably get cross threaded and damaged at worst, or is so frustrating that the ring isn't tightened at all, a very poor practice. As long as the receiving male portion has the necessary slots in it, all this requires is about 1/8th turn to lock into place. It's a bit of a pain to remove the old ring and replace it with this one--a little dish washing soap would make it easier, but still not easy. But it's well worth it. 

ChanW

@Tampakayaker, thank you! I've been looking for that! 
I struggled with the dang threads yesterday for 5 minutes - It seems no matter how much practice I get, it never gets easier. Sometimes it's a breeze, and other times it's a foreign language.
Only thing is, I can't see how one would remove and replace the ring. Dish soap, huh? We'll see.

Tampakayaker

ChanW said:

@Tampakayaker, thank you! I've been looking for that! 
I struggled with the dang threads yesterday for 5 minutes - It seems no matter how much practice I get, it never gets easier. Sometimes it's a breeze, and other times it's a foreign language.
Only thing is, I can't see how one would remove and replace the ring. Dish soap, huh? We'll see.

I guess between the soap and some forceful pushing it can be done.  Probably get one spot started then work around the entire lip.

I guess you could snip off the old one, that would reduce the work load in 1/2!

Michigan_Mike

Campwise said:

I agree that the outlet requires careful connecting.  We do twist right then tighten the collar, and reverse when removing.  But it has felt loose every time, even with careful collar tightening.  Plugging in has always caused a gravity/weight pull down that feels like a slight disconnect, but this is the first time there's been a problem.  Thank you for the Amazon links (the adapter isn't available in or near our rural town).  I followed directions on the YouTube video for checking continuity, but couldn't get multimeter readings on any plugs...  The 30amp female end does smell a little smokey, so maybe it arc'd and burned out.  Fingers crossed that replacing the adapter will fix the problem!  And thank you to everyone.  

Your problem is behind the 30A female plug on the trailer.  If that has felt funny plugging in and you smell smoke or a metallic odor there you no doubt have a bad female assembly or basically a bad electrical connection (loose) on the backside.  If the wire harness behind that area has one wire nut that is loose the wire will heat up when any load is placed on it and over time this heating and cooling and trying to make a good connection will create a bad connection and the electrical arcing (from trying time maintain a connection or path for voltage to flow) will melt the copper conductor and it will fail.  You can probably salvage the assembly.  Remove the screws, pull it out and if the screws aren’t welded to the assembly use a wire brush to clean up the surface, clean the wire ends up and screw them tight to the back of the female plug end. Otherwise you should be able to replace it via a local RV supply store.  Use some silicone between the assembly and trailer wall when you reinstall it and use a wet or dampened paper towel to clean up the silicone on the trailer wall before it dries.