How to run off battery power

jenniferlzr

 How do I utilize the battery in the 400?

Also, if I need to use the ALDE heater when not on shore power, I've read that it has to run off the propane AND battery. How do I set this up? I've searched and searched on both of these topics. Help! 

TerryHutchinson

The Alde uses power to do two things: 1 - circulate heating fluid through the baseboard radiators, and 2 - to heat the heating fluid and water for kitchen and bath.  The circulating pump always draws power from the 12 volt circuit.  The 12 volt circuit is energized by either the battery or a power converter that take some of the 120v AC from shore power and converts it to 12v DC.  If you want the Alde circulation pump to use battery power, you need only make sure the battery kill switch in your battery box is in the on position and disconnect from shore power. (make sure the Alde is turned on - the power switch on the lower left of the Alde control panel)

To heat the radiator fluid or your hot water, the Alde can use either shore power 120V AC, or propane.  You control that from the Alde control panel.

falcon1970

You don't need to be disconnected from shore power to run the Alde circulating pump.

Bayliss

@jenniferlzr, you did not indicate the year of your trailer, or if you are the original owner.  However, to properly learn and understand how to operate the Alde, etc., your best bet is to ask the dealer (or previous owner?) to walk you through all of that.  Trying to answer how to set things up can be fairly complicated and too extensive to provide a simple answer here, particularly when explaining how to operate the Alde (at least in my view.)  Beyond that, hopefully you have the nuCamp owner's manual for your trailer, as well as operator manuals for the different appliances, systems, etc., for your trailer, which will help with the basics.

If this is your first RV, then you will initially have a steep learning curve, which will involve some time and reading.  Searching for general RV videos and "how-to" information on YouTube can be very helpful.  This includes RV manufacturer videos, such as nuCamp.  Alde and nuCamp, as well as T@B or other brand trailer owners, have great videos that will help you get started.  

A good place to find helpful info on this forum is to start with the appropriate subject matter in the "Categories" folders on the left side of the forum screen (e.g., maybe start with the "User Manuals/PDF Files/Videos & Resources" folder.

Beyond all that, this forum is absolutely the BEST place to find help and tips specific to T@B trailers, but you do need a basic understanding of different aspects of the trailer to get the biggest benefit of all that this group has to offer.

Good luck, and happy RVing.

pthomas745

The manual will tell you.  If you are running on battery only, the Alde uses a little bit of battery power to run the exhaust fan, and another little bit to run the circulation pump.  The propane takes care of the heating part. 

So, think of it more as running on propane requires just a tiny bit of battery power.

To make this magic happen, the Alde requires your battery to have a charge of at least 11.6 V. 

Link to the Alde FAQ page.  And a link to the Alde 3020 manual.

https://www.alde.us/faq/

And the manual link:

https://www.alde.us/manuals-and-documents/?categories=manuals-us-can,alde-compact-3020-he-5

jenniferlzr

Thanks for the help. The manual to me, is not helpful at all. It describes what the TAB has, but doesn't tell you how to use anything. I'll look at the Alde pamphlet again. I still can't figure out how to switch the camper to battery power. 

ChanW

Only certain parts of the Tab run on battery power.

The regular wall type outlets do not work with battery power, they are only powered by shore power. Same with the air conditioner.

The fan, lights, entertainment center & TV, 12v usb-type outlets, fridge, Alde (in propane mode) all run on battery power. (If you have a "three-way" fridge, don't use the fridge's battery mode unless you are connected to your running vehicle or shore power - it will drain your battery quickly otherwise)

To use the battery-power items, you only need the main battery cut-off switch to be 'ON', and the battery charged, of course, or connected to shore power.

Bayliss

@jenniferlzr, see the message I sent you re the battery switch location.  Also, look for the "T@B 400 RESOURCE GUIDE" in the Owner's Manuals folder in the User Manuals and Resources folder I referenced earlier in this discussion thread.  It is for a 2019 model, but I think it will be very helpful for you.  (Greg)

VictoriaP

jenniferlzr said:

Thanks for the help. The manual to me, is not helpful at all. It describes what the TAB has, but doesn't tell you how to use anything. I'll look at the Alde pamphlet again. I still can't figure out how to switch the camper to battery power. 

There’s no real “switch” to shift over to battery. The 12v and 120v systems are interconnected. There is a battery disconnect...as long as that is turned to On, the battery will be “online”, whether or not you are plugged in via your 30 amp cord.

If you are plugged in, and the battery disconnect is turned to On, the converter uses the 120v it receives to charge the battery and operate all electric outlets and appliances. 

If you are plugged in, and the battery disconnect is Off, the battery is not charging, but all electrical systems will function.

If you are not plugged in, and the battery disconnect is On, you are operating on 12v battery power. Your 120v outlets will not function, and the Alde will need propane to run.

If you are not plugged in and the battery disconnect is Off, nothing will function. You are in storage mode.

Generally speaking, when plugged in, battery disconnect should be on unless you know beyond a doubt that your batteries are fully charged. It also needs to be On when towing...NO EXCEPTIONS. The battery must be charged before you tow, as it controls the emergency brakes in a breakaway accident.

Also note: ALWAYS turn the Alde to OFF before you unplug the trailer. You’ll likely blow a fuse if you forget.

jenniferlzr

Victoria, thank you! This is what I needed to know. I knew the 110 outlets won’t work with the battery, but the lights should be working. I’ll look again at the battery switch. 

Horigan

@jenniferlzr
There is a great unofficial 2019 400 manual that does a great job of explaining systems and how the operate, including the Alde.

Look for it in the sixth post of the link below, titled, unofficial...

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6371/t-b-owners-manuals#latest

Mellow_Yellow

jenniferlzr said:

Victoria, thank you! This is what I needed to know. I knew the 110 outlets won’t work with the battery, but the lights should be working. I’ll look again at the battery switch. 

Reposting this link provided to me by @pthomas745 : https://jenngrover.com/guilty-as-charged-rv-battery-use-management/ on my recent sad little post about a dead battery. 

Many of my favourite campsites are unserviced, so I'm interested in anything I can do to minimize battery drain, such as using 'fairy lights' instead of the T@B's overhead lights, when feasible. I'm also considering disconnecting the Jensen stereo, which is old and has no bluetooth anyway.

What I learned this past weekend, is that when the battery dies, there is also no power to the carbon monoxide detector, which will chirp every 40 seconds. At that point, it is unsafe to use the propane system and also impossible to sleep. Live and learn...

jenniferlzr

I’ve put fairy lights in too! I don’t like the LED at all. Too harsh for my eyes. 

pthomas745

@Mellow_Yellow don't beat yourself up too much...your battery learning curve is something everyone goes through to some extent.  If it wasn't for that Jenn Grover post, I'd probably be on my second or third battery by now! 

VictoriaP

jenniferlzr said:

I’ve put fairy lights in too! I don’t like the LED at all. Too harsh for my eyes. 

One of the first things I did in my 320 was add CTO warming gel filters to most of the lights. These photo/theater gel filters are designed to not melt with the heat from lights, and come in 1/4, 1/2, or full strength, so you can warm the color temp to your preferred shade. It was a cheap, ten minute fix to get rid of all the stark bright white glare. Most of the lights have removable lenses, so I popped off the lens, cut the gel filter to size, and put the lens back with the filter in place. Easy peasy and WAY more pleasant ambiance.

Others have replaced entire light fixtures with warm white LED alternatives.

DougH

@VictoriaP Helpful post. I had tried amber automotive tape and it was way too much yellow.  What color (1/8, 1/4?) CTO did you end up using for the ceiling and reading lights?

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B73PEK
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08814S8KM

VictoriaP

DougH said:

@VictoriaP Helpful post. I had tried amber automotive tape and it was way too much yellow.  What color (1/8, 1/4?) CTO did you end up using for the ceiling and reading lights?

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B73PEK
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08814S8KM

I went full CTO. I grew up with incandescent bulbs, so my tolerance for bright white is limited to close up work, and full CTO (the T is for tungsten) gives me a traditional incandescent light, which at night I find comforting. I’d think 1/2 CTO is probably close to today’s “warm white” household LED bulbs, which are still a bit cooler than incandescent to my eye. But you can get mixed packs of 8”x8” gels if you want to play around with color temps. They can also be layered, so if you buy 1/4 and it’s not enough, try two or three!

I used it on the reading lights (which I’ve typically left pointed upwards to reflect off the ceiling and walls, the Kindle has its own reading light) and on the main cabin overhead. For whatever reason, I haven’t managed to unscrew the cover on the bath light, but for showering, that’s fine and for toilet purposes I typically don’t bother with the light at all. I use a warm white Mr. Beams motion activated night light in there at night anyway. The under cabinet light in the kitchen I also left bright white as task lighting.

Marceline

Mellow_Yellow said:

Many of my favourite campsites are unserviced, so I'm interested in anything I can do to minimize battery drain, such as using 'fairy lights' instead of the T@B's overhead lights, when feasible. I'm also considering disconnecting the Jensen stereo, which is old and has no bluetooth anyway.

The LED lights are older "cold" temperature lights. It's possible to replace them with warmer lights (2700k) but I haven't bothered. At night I use warmer fairy lights and solar Luci lights. If you don't like cool lighting, be sure to get the tunable or warm Luci lights.

If you camp in areas with minimal/no cell access you might consider leaving the Jensen hooked up because it does have weather bands. 

pthomas745

There are many RV lights now that are pretty much straight replacements with better "color rendering indexes".  My gels are working fine, but one of these gooseneck types would be pretty swank.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0838RWH7Y/?coliid=I2WDPJE0OLP7HW&colid=3DJSJON9VK2CS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

ontheroad

@Mellow_Yellow...we added a dongle to the jensen tv.. it kills another parasitic drain..if you see a light it's using your battery's juice...Luci lights are another option for indoors.. they're solar and the ones I have are inflatable so stow easily..

jenniferlzr

VictoriaP said:

jenniferlzr said:

I’ve put fairy lights in too! I don’t like the LED at all. Too harsh for my eyes. 

One of the first things I did in my 320 was add CTO warming gel filters to most of the lights. These photo/theater gel filters are designed to not melt with the heat from lights, and come in 1/4, 1/2, or full strength, so you can warm the color temp to your preferred shade. It was a cheap, ten minute fix to get rid of all the stark bright white glare. Most of the lights have removable lenses, so I popped off the lens, cut the gel filter to size, and put the lens back with the filter in place. Easy peasy and WAY more pleasant ambiance.

Others have replaced entire light fixtures with warm white LED alternatives.

VictoriaP said:

DougH said:

@VictoriaP Helpful post. I had tried amber automotive tape and it was way too much yellow.  What color (1/8, 1/4?) CTO did you end up using for the ceiling and reading lights?

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B73PEK
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08814S8KM

I went full CTO. I grew up with incandescent bulbs, so my tolerance for bright white is limited to close up work, and full CTO (the T is for tungsten) gives me a traditional incandescent light, which at night I find comforting. I’d think 1/2 CTO is probably close to today’s “warm white” household LED bulbs, which are still a bit cooler than incandescent to my eye. But you can get mixed packs of 8”x8” gels if you want to play around with color temps. They can also be layered, so if you buy 1/4 and it’s not enough, try two or three!

I used it on the reading lights (which I’ve typically left pointed upwards to reflect off the ceiling and walls, the Kindle has its own reading light) and on the main cabin overhead. For whatever reason, I haven’t managed to unscrew the cover on the bath light, but for showering, that’s fine and for toilet purposes I typically don’t bother with the light at all. I use a warm white Mr. Beams motion activated night light in there at night anyway. The under cabinet light in the kitchen I also left bright white as task lighting.

jenniferlzr

VictoriaP, did you manage to cover the led strips with the gel sheets? I tried to, but the tape I’m using doesn’t stay stuck! I’ll probably just never use the lights, which is kind of a shame. 

VictoriaP

jenniferlzr said:

VictoriaP, did you manage to cover the led strips with the gel sheets? I tried to, but the tape I’m using doesn’t stay stuck! I’ll probably just never use the lights, which is kind of a shame. 

The older 320s doesn’t come with accent lights like the 400 does from the factory, so I haven’t dealt with them. There are a LOT of different types of tape though. I’d keep trying until you find something that works. Alternatively, there are warm white 12v LED strips on the market that you could likely install in place of the factory ones.

Now that we’ve wandered way off topic: Did you get your 12v system up and running yet?

Marceline

pthomas745 said:

There are many RV lights now that are pretty much straight replacements with better "color rendering indexes".  My gels are working fine, but one of these gooseneck types would be pretty swank.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0838RWH7Y/?coliid=I2WDPJE0OLP7HW&colid=3DJSJON9VK2CS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Color temperature of 4000K is probably too cold for the OP.