Getting ready: Feedback on towing equipment

CharlieRN

We were recently notified that our 320BD, ordered back in September, is on the nuCamp build schedule for Feb and should be at the dealer in March. The extended lead time gave me the opportunity to do my homework on the towing equipment that I need, but I now need to go ahead and get it and install everything on my TV, an older Volvo XC-90 V8 Sport.

The car has a Draw-Tite Class III hitch specific to the model, and a 4-pole powered harness. I installed both to tow a small sail boat that was about the same weight as the 320. While the capacity of the hitch is more than adequate for the BD, I need to change the harness to enable the use of the T@B's brake controller. That's in process and I'm just waiting for a few miscellaneous hardware items to arrive to do the install.

I'm getting ready to order a brake controller and a new new drawbar/ball mount to provide the rise that I need for the 320 BD (which the dealer tells me is 19" off the ground at the coupler.) Before proceeding, I'd like to throw my selections out there for consideration and comment by the unknowable folks on this forum.

Controller: While a wired controller has advantages, the interior of the Volvo is not very accommodating for a control head, and installation is challenging. Wireless is a lot easier but the easiest route - the Curt Echo - presents some safety issues since it uses a mobile phone as the control interface. I think I will opt for the Tekonsha Prodigy RF, which is a bit more expensive, but offers quicker access in case of emergency. Another plus for wireless is that it allows another TV to be used without any modification, an advantage as my 11 year old Volvo will likely need to be replaced sooner rather than later.

Drawbar/ball mount: The hitch is a custom fit that sits just below the car's bumper, so the top of the receiver is relatively close to the ground, about 15". As noted, the BD is 19", so I need 4" of rise. I think that it may be wiser to pay a bit more and use an adjustable ball mount given that a change in TV in a year or two is possible (maybe even likely.) The lighter aluminum version seems to be a better, if somewhat more expensive choice, and I've tentatively decided to go with an Anderson with a 6" rise (it looks like etrailer sells the same hitch under their own name for a bit less.)

Any and all feedback welcome.

dragonsdofly

@CharlieRN, while I can't speak to the tow vehicle (my tv is a chevy 2500HD, and almost too much for the t@b), we do have the Tekonsha RF and love it. Our previous tv was totalled 2 weeks before our first big adventure was about to begin. We just reached into the glove compartment, removed our Tekonsha and plugged it into the replacement vehicle. We now have 3 vehicles to tow with and simply move the Tekonsha from one vehicle to another. It's just great.

VictoriaP

CharlieRN said:

Drawbar/ball mount: The hitch is a custom fit that sits just below the car's bumper, so the top of the receiver is relatively close to the ground, about 15". As noted, the BD is 19", so I need 4" of rise. I think that it may be wiser to pay a bit more and use an adjustable ball mount given that a change in TV in a year or two is possible (maybe even likely.) The lighter aluminum version seems to be a better, if somewhat more expensive choice, and I've tentatively decided to go with an Anderson with a 6" rise (it looks like e-trailer sells the same hitch under their own name).

Any and all feedback welcome.

FYI: at least on my 320 BD, that 19” is at the top of the BALL. I would confirm with your dealer where they are taking that measurement.

If you look at this image: 

B, the lowest edge of the tongue, has historically been 16” on the 320 Boondock when level, and I’ve not seen that this is changed on the 2021. The top of the ball is a few inches higher than that. You’ll want to measure A while the vehicle is loaded as for camping, since most will sag somewhat when loaded (and further still when you drop some 200+ pounds of tongue weight on there.)

https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-accessories/ball-mounts/learn-more

The Prodigy RF does require installation on the trailer and pairing of the controller and hand unit in order to work. As all that takes time, I had the dealer handle it prior to delivery. Yes, it probably cost me more than ordering elsewhere and installing myself, but it meant the trailer was ready to go as soon as I arrived to pick it up. You’ll still want a good spot in the vehicle to mount the handset; I use a phone vent mount to keep it up near the steering wheel when towing, then toss into the center console when not needed.

4ncar

You will need to run a10awg(min);6awg (better) to power the trailer while in transit. This will charge your battery and operate the trailer brakes. Run from battery to 7pin. There will need to be a relay & fuse in line. There are discussions on the board about this.

Sharon_is_SAM

If you go with the Tekonsha RF, technically you don’t need a brake wire, but install it anyway just in case someone else acquires the TV and expects a full 7 pin.  I agree with 4ncar regarding larger wiring.  We went with 10 gauge for the charge line and we have no problems recharging our battery and running the ARB frig.  

GatorEgg

One the to remember when calculating hitch rise/drop is what tongue weight does to your tow vehicle rear suspension.  I dont know the tonque weight of your 320.  Mine was about 120.  Have someone sit on the rear of your vehicle which is about the same weight as the tongue weight plus the gear your plan to carry in the rear of the vehicle.

CharlieRN

Appreciate all the feedback.

Regarding the charging line for the 7 pole, the Curt adapter harness I ordered uses 10 ga wire. In older XC-90's like mine, the battery is in the extreme rear of the car, which makes for a very short run to the harness. Since the aux line is only a few feet long, I plan to use 10 ga and will splice and solder it to the harness line, rather than using the supplied crimp connector. It will connect to the battery through a 40 amp breaker.

I'm glad to see the positive remarks about the Prodigy. I would normally do the installation myself but in this case, it makes more sense to have the dealer handle it. The Volvo has a small cubby (who's purpose is a mystery to me - it's too small to be useful) just under the sound system display. I may be able to use this small space to hold a DIY bracket to hang the handset from when towing.

The information from VictoriaP about the height of the T@B prompted me to phone the dealer for clarification on their 19" reference. It turns out that they meant if was to the top of the coupler ball and the height to the ground is roughly 16". Since the top of the receiver tube is nominally 15", this would mean using ball mount with a rise of only an inch or so, depending on spring sag. The car has Nivomat self-leveling shocks in the rear which makes determining the actual rise needed a bit difficult (the shocks need mechanical action to work, so they can sag a bit when the car is parked). It is probably prudent to get an adjustable ball mount, which would cover all the suspension contingencies and would work if and when I change TVs.

Again my thanks to all for the valuable input.

Tampakayaker

CharlieRN said:

Appreciate all the feedback.

Regarding the charging line for the 7 pole, the Curt adapter harness I ordered uses 10 ga wire. In older XC-90's like mine, the battery is in the extreme rear of the car, which makes for a very short run to the harness. Since the aux line is only a few feet long, I plan to use 10 ga and will splice and solder it to the harness line, rather than using the supplied crimp connector. It will connect to the battery through a 40 amp breaker.

I'm glad to see the positive remarks about the Prodigy. I would normally do the installation myself but in this case, it makes more sense to have the dealer handle it. The Volvo has a small cubby (who's purpose is a mystery to me - it's too small to be useful) just under the sound system display. I may be able to use this small space to hold a DIY bracket to hang the handset from when towing.

The information from VictoriaP about the height of the T@B prompted me to phone the dealer for clarification on their 19" reference. It turns out that they meant if was to the top of the coupler ball and the height to the ground is roughly 16". Since the top of the receiver tube is nominally 15", this would mean using ball mount with a rise of only an inch or so, depending on spring sag. The car has Nivomat self-leveling shocks in the rear which makes determining the actual rise needed a bit difficult (the shocks need mechanical action to work, so they can sag a bit when the car is parked). It is probably prudent to get an adjustable ball mount, which would cover all the suspension contingencies and would work if and when I change TVs.

Again my thanks to all for the valuable input.

Not sure how much the aluminum adjustable hitch will cost you from e-trailer, but they have them at Harbor Freight for $99.99 and you can usually find a 20% off coupon on line.   

HAUL-MASTER

2-Ball Adjustable Aluminum Hitch, 6 in. Drop / 6 in. Rise

Or a steel one for $35

The 8-in-1 adjustable ball mount hitch is ideal when you have more than one trailer or tow vehicle. Instantly adjust the rise or drop of your hitch without purchasing multiple hitch mounts. This adjustable ball mount hitch features heavy duty welded construction and a weather-resistant black powder coat finish.

• 10 in. max. rise
• 11 in. max. drop
• 5000 lb. gross towing weight
• 500 lb. tongue weight
• Fits 2 in. receivers
• Powder coat finish
• Comes with two 5/8 in. diameter hitch pins

TomCanada

Sharon_is_SAM said:

If you go with the Tekonsha RF, technically you don’t need a brake wire, but install it anyway just in case someone else acquires the TV and expects a full 7 pin.  I agree with 4ncar regarding larger wiring.  We went with 10 gauge for the charge line and we have no problems recharging our battery and running the ARB frig.  

@Sharon_is_SAMI'll likely do the same - will make sure my installer uses some heavier gauge and hopefully taps in right at the (trunk-mounted) battery - I plan on calling him up later today to inquire.  On the other end, do you know what gauge the Tab's wiring from the 7-pin is?  And does the 7-pin power go to the converter prior to going to the battery, or straight to the battery?

I'm wondering if AWG10 might still be smallish - assuming a 20 foot run, at 10 Amps, AWG10 results in a 0.2V drop.  Or 0.4V at 20 Amps.  Going to AWG8 cuts those voltage drops by one-third.  Then again, I'm measuring 14.4V at my battery from the alternator, so as long as the Tab's wiring is reasonably thick, I should get reasonable charge capability..

Sharon_is_SAM

@TomCanada - I do not know the AWG of the TaB 7 pin wiring, but I believe that info is somewhere here on the forum.  On the 320, the 7 pin comes into the junction box under the front of the TaB.