How to tie in an aftermarket solar / lithium / inverter install with the NuCamp control panel?

TheTabster

Expert opinions appreciated!

This is a 2021 TAB 320 S BD.

The upgrade path is (2) Renogy 100 watt solar suitcases > Renogy Rover MPPT 30 AMP Solar charge controller > Renogy 170Ah lithium battery to a Renogy 1000 watt inverter. The entire system is 12 volt, until it hits the inverter.
All this makes sense unto itself - but all that new power won't feed the fridge or other electrical functions in the TAB unless it somewhere ties in with the TAB's own control center. 

The inverter dead ends as a stand-alone AC socket for off-grid use, it doesn't need to integrate in any way with the NuCamp installed AC from shore power.

Should the factory installed rooftop solar panel be re-routed in to my MPPT charge controller, along with my solar suitcases?

Should I install inline fuses in any part of this system?

Will I need to replace the factory installed control panel with something more robust - and / or use a heavier gauge wire to connect my aftermarket system to the NuCamp install system?

Many thanks for well informed feedback! 

NovaTab

I believe you're over thinking this, remove the existing controller replace with new one.

All 3 panels should work together.

I'll look for others to chime in

TheTabster

Thanks for your input. The big lithium battery is in the tub, and I was planning to mount the new solar charge controller close by, also in the tub. In that case, the extension cables off of my solar suitcases would route to the solar controller in the tub, which is quite far from whatever charge controller NuCamp installed inside the trailer. If I take your advice, won't I have to drill holes in the side of the trailer to route the solar panel cables to the interior charge controller?

VictoriaP

TheTabster said:

Thanks for your input. The big lithium battery is in the tub, and I was planning to mount the new solar charge controller close by, also in the tub. In that case, the extension cables off of my solar suitcases would route to the solar controller in the tub, which is quite far from whatever charge controller NuCamp installed inside the trailer. If I take your advice, won't I have to drill holes in the side of the trailer to route the solar panel cables to the interior charge controller?

Is there some reason you don’t want to simply use both controllers? Most people with preinstalled solar seem to simply leave the current system intact, and use either a pigtail on the battery or a port though the tub wall to attach their portable setup—complete with its own controller—whenever it’s needed.

Denny16

Also, a 1000 watt inverter is not going to power all the AC systems in a TaB.  The 1800 watt inverter in the TaB400 won’t even power a 700 watt microwave.  Small inverters like these are designed to run smaller AC loads, like laptop,computers, battery rechargers and small hair dryers. 

Cheers

NovaTab

TheTabster said:

 If I take your advice, won't I have to drill holes in the side of the trailer to route the solar panel cables to the interior charge controller?

I would drill a hole up from under into to area of the controller with a reachable pigtail to plug into

or go thru the side with a connector outlet of some kind

NovaTab

VictoriaP said:

TheTabster said:

Thanks for your input. The big lithium battery is in the tub, and I was planning to mount the new solar charge controller close by, also in the tub. In that case, the extension cables off of my solar suitcases would route to the solar controller in the tub, which is quite far from whatever charge controller NuCamp installed inside the trailer. If I take your advice, won't I have to drill holes in the side of the trailer to route the solar panel cables to the interior charge controller?

Is there some reason you don’t want to simply use both controllers? Most people with preinstalled solar seem to simply leave the current system intact, and use either a pigtail on the battery or a port though the tub wall to attach their portable setup—complete with its own controller—whenever it’s needed.

If you didn't buy the second controller yet just get a smaller one for the second set of panels and connect accordingly.

In fact that may be a better option since they are different, it's a myth they interfere with each other.

In fact since the one you have from Nucamp is Mppt the second one can be Pwm at about $25, they work together like that fine.