Anti-freeze in the Alde Heater

bwbeaird

While winterizing our T@b 400 for the first time, I made the (rookie) mistake of opening the Alde heater Bypass valve (red handle) while flushing anti-freeze through the water system. (My rationale was to get anti-freeze everywhere that water may be trapped). But then we learned (from the NuCamp videos etc), that it's important to keep the Alde bypass valve in the 'Bypass' position so as to keep anti-freeze out of the heater. Now I'm wondering:

(a) Why is this important? Does the configuration of the heater's internals make it hard to purge when de-winterizing? Does antifreeze in the heater coils cause them to foul when heated, or damage the heater in some other way? Also...
(b) Now that the deed is done, what's the best way undo it? ie how best to purge the antifreeze out of the Alde, next time we de-winterize, and minimize any damage done and purging hassle?

Thanks (in advance) for your feedback.
Brian

dragonsdofly

@bwbeaird, the easiest way to clear the alde of antifreeze is to flush it with water when you dewinterize. I don't believe there will be damage of the alde IF you DON'T use the alde to heat the t@b with the antifreeze in the interior water tank. Many antifreeze brands cannot handle the heat the alde produces, break down chemically and/or become corrosive to the alde's inner tank and workings. What year is your 400? If it has the Nautilus system, I've read the winterization and dewinterization is supposed to be easier. Good luck. At least it isn't rocket science!

Denny16

You will need to flush it out with water, from the City Water connection, pressurize the system.  Next Open all the low point drains and yellow Alde and Flo pressure release valves with a bucket under them, and purge water/glycol out of lines until you only see clear water coming out. Turn off the city water, and then drain everything out.  Next repressurize your water system, open the hot and cold taps in galley and shower to flush out any glycol in the lines.

 Drain and flush your water tank too, again yiu need to catch the glycol in a bucket.  Next you will need to drain your gray water tank into a bucket to,flush out any glycol in the tank.  You could use air pressure instead of city water and the duty water connection using a compressor set to 45psi and an adapter connected to the City Water port on the Nautilus panel.  This would reduce the amount of stuff that gets drained out.  The flushed out glycol will need to be properly disposed of, or if using air pressure, save it for next winter...
cheers

pthomas745

Here is a thread with a discussion of "what happens when antifreeze is in the Alde."  Short story, if you don't run the Alde, it doesn't seem to matter.  But, read over the thread carefully. Pull quote:

As ScottG noted, Spencer discussed that the issue with adding the antifreeze to the hot water tank, was surrounding use of the Alde for cabin heat.  Using the Alde to heat the cabin via the circulating glycol, will also heat the contents of the Alde water tank, and the antifreeze may heat beyond it’s recommended heat limit.  I don’t recall what happens to that overheated antifreeze, just the bottom line - avoid it in the Alde or do your antifreeze homework!

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/7619/antifreeze-and-water-tank

Denny16

Yes, do not run the Alde with antifreeze in the hot water tank.
cheers

bwbeaird

Ok thanks for great feedback. We will flush the anti freeze from the Alde thoroughly as you describe, before heating it again.

Dalehelman

I assume when you say antifreeze you mean RV antifreeze the pink stuff. It takes a lot of fresh water flushing to remove RV antifreeze. When you think you have it all removed from your tanks. Fill your fresh water tank about half. Then use your pump to fill a container of water. If you see a lot of small bubbles like Carbonation there is still some antifreeze residue. You can also taste it although it will not hurt you it has a distinct taste.

Verna

@Dalehelman is that the voice of experience?😂😂