100w solar suitcase kit

CharlieRN

We just this week took delivery or our T@B 320 BD, a stock unit with no options at this point except for a Prodigy RF Brake Controller. So we have the standard factory solar system and 80 Ah flooded-cell battery. Given our plans for the T@B, it's likely that the battery storage will be insufficient, but we want to experiment a bit before making what will surely be expensive changes.

One part of the experiment was to add some solar charging capacity, and while we initially planned this for a later time, I just found a very attractively priced 100w solar suitcase kit, and pulled the trigger on it. The reason for the post is two-fold. One is to let folks who may be interested know about the offer. The other is to ask yet another solar question.

The item is the Renogy 100w solar charging kit consisting of two hinged 50w panels, with aluminum stands and protective carrying case, waterproof controller and connecting cables. The website owned by the wealthiest person on the planet has it for $250, but if you use the Capital 1 price search app, you will be directed to the eBay Renogy site where it lists for $220. After a further discount applied at checkout, the final price is $201. The one drawback I see is that the controller is the PWM type, but it is otherwise a pretty solid kit that gets decent marks from the solar community, as this review indicates.

The kit ships with the needed wiring however, the battery connection is via alligator clamps. The T@B has a factory SAE connector on the storage tub that I'd like to use instead. This would seem to mean simply replacing the alligator clamps with the appropriate SAE connector. Since things never seem to be simple in the solar world however, I thought I'd ask the folks on the forum if my assumption is correct.

Horigan

Yep.  Just swap the alligator clips for the SAE connector.  Be really sure about the polarity before plugging it in.

WayneW

It sounds like we have the exact setup as you including trailer, battery, and solar panel/controller. I don’t think the pwm controller is a big deal. We used the solar panel on a T@G that we had before we upgraded. 

It really is that simple. Put some SAE connectors on and plug in. Just make sure the polarity is correct. I’m looking forward to seeing how the factory solar and the portable solar keep us going while boondocking. A battery upgrade is likely in the future but, like you, I’m going to live with the stock battery for now to help figure out which direction to go. 

Good Luck!

ScottG

That's what I did. If you want to retain the option of using the clamps, you could make interchangeable pigtails using additional SAE connectors or MC4 connectors. I like the option of still being able to use my suitcase to charge any stand-alone battery.

WayneW

It’s also handy that a Battery Tender trickle charger has an SAE plug. I plug the trickle charger into the port for longer term storage. 

CharlieRN

Many thanks @ScottG - that's a terrific idea.

ScottG

WayneW said:

It’s also handy that a Battery Tender trickle charger has an SAE plug. I plug the trickle charger into the port for longer term storage. 

Doesn't Battery tender configure their SAE plugs opposite those of the Zamp port on the camper? This switched polarity was topic of much discussion a few years back.

Sharon_is_SAM

@CharlieRN - if you read enough about solar, you will find that the PWM controller is just fine for lower wattage systems.  That is what we have used with our 150 amphr AGM battery with very good results.

WayneW

I remember that discussion. I installed the SAE connector in my tub myself and it was straight forward. Red to positive, black to negative and the Battery Tender matched right up. Plus the alligator clips from the charger work on the solar panel too. 

But the polarity on the factory plug needs to be checked out before plugging in!

pthomas745

Easy to connect to the SAE port.  Make your own simple cable.

Buy this from "The Wealthiest Person On The Planet's" web site (love it).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749CT6Y7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Take a good look a the cable, especially the "red" wire. Note that one end of the red has a big metal part sticking out....and the other end of the red has the wire enclosed into the plastic.  You need to cut the "red metal end" of the cable off, and trim the insulation about a quarter of an inch.  This end will go into your solar controller "battery" output.  The trimmed SAE cable.

The wired up solar controller.  Just a simple, ordinary PWM.  Again:  that red wire.  Positive from the battery output..and winds up in the "plug" side safely enclosed inside the plastic.  No possibility of sparks...which is the whole point of the SAE cable.

And, plugged into the port.

Warning:  the main downside to this setup if you aren't careful (like I was!)  Make sure the cable is unplugged from the port before disconnecting the wires from the controller!  It WILL be hot and WILL spark!  I'm working on a small box with SAE pigtails like Scott's setup above.