So...6v flooded, bmv 712, running generator w/separate battery charger. Why am I reading a discharge? I have tried battery switch on & off. While switch on, I get .25a discharge, switch off 0. I have everything off in the trailer except the co2 sensor. The charger is putting voltage to the batteries but no amps, how weird. If I plug into truck, I get voltage & positive amperage (7-8). All in all I haven’t moved from 64%SOC all morning.
Any thoughts?
Comments
That was the case! Out of sync! 30 minutes rested batteries read 12.78v. Reset to 100%
2018 320S Outback
2018 320S Outback
How it is currently set up, specifically these 3 settings are where the problem is.
Charged voltage
Tail current
Charged detection time
Based on your battery voltage of 13.74 it is my expectation tat the batteries are fully charged but it never met the criteria in order to synchronize or reset the Time since last full charge etc.
The way it works is that in order to reset - synch you have to meet the Charged voltage with Tail current UNDER the % specified for the Charged detection time.
I can't say that I have this exactly sorted out but here is where mine is set and at least in my backyard testing it seems to do what I expect.
Charged voltage is set to 13.6
Tail current is set to .5% which equates to 1.12 Amps with 2 x 6 volt Harris AGM
Charged detection time is set to 5 minutes
You have your settings, most like the Charged voltage set to a level that it is not obtaining and therefor not resetting - synching. My issue was it was set too low and doing a false reset - synch.
If I could set the Tail current lower than .5% I would, but that is the bottom. This is based on the Total Ah available from the batteries being used.
I see myself needing to tweak the Charged detection time to a level higher than 5 minutes, but feel pretty good about the other 2 settings. I will need to camp to determine this but I am a few weeks out from being able to go again due to other family matters that need to be attended to.
Brad
P.S. Turn off the Solar Charging under the battery settings in the MPPT, turn off the master switch and make sure everything else is off. Go under the Battery settings of the BMV-712 and yo can manually zero the current. I have never zeroed mine but it always shows zero with everything off.
The only other thought would be if you have the Shunt installed incorrectly.
2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
Concord, NC
other tips I will try in 2 days, when I expect to be running low(er).
were you trying to explain why bmv & solar controlar show different readings at the end?
2018 320S Outback
As per Victron, they recommend setting the Charged voltage at .2 volts below Absorption voltage which with AGM batteries is 14.2. I tried that and if the batteries are fully charged my PD9260C convertor puts out 13.6 volts; which is why I set it to 13.6 because it would never reset - synch. Sitting in my backyard and looking at it now, it appears that it is functioning properly based on my settings but I will want to further test when I am able to go camping in a few weeks. Even with sun on the Solar Panel, it would not reset - synch.
In the test results that @TomCanada had shared with me, I am certain his would have worked properly with 13.6, Tail current at .5% and Charged detection time higher than 3 minutes. As mentioned, I may raise the Charged detection time to 10 or 5 minutes if I need to.
My main goal is that I don't ever want a false reset - synch, I would much rather deal (only if I have to) with a situation like you had where the reset - synch wasn't happening even though you were charged. Ideally, it would avoid both error modes.
It is important also to note that under the History tab of the BMV-712 there is a synch count but more importantly (at least to me) is Time since last full charge. The synch counter doesn't always index (I haven't researched as to why) when the batteries reach a full SoC but the Time since last full charge always does.
May I ask what you had the Charged voltage set to?
Thanks!
Brad
2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
Concord, NC
I'd rather never sync with converter-only cases than potentially sync early on solar. I don't think I'll ever have a case where I don't have at least *some* solar to top me up and allow a sync in the case the converter has already charged me overnight, so I'm not too worried about that case.. So I choose the 14.2V/4% settings. If I know my battery is fully charged w/ the converter (perhaps at night?) and I don't want to wait for the next day's solar top-up to synchronize me, I can always do a manual sync.
If you would rather ensure you sync with your converter every time, the 13.6V/0.5% settings may work for you - but you can/will sync prematurely on sunny days when the sun goes behind a cloud.. (in my case, I dropped from 14V @ 7A to 13.58V @ 0.9A when a cloud came by - which would've caused a premature sync with 13.6V/0.5% settings)
No perfect solution unfortunately - sadly like with all things, ignorance is probably bliss here - but I'm in way too deep for that
phil
2018 320S Outback
As mentioned, I will need to do some more evaluating when I get a chance to actually camp. I may have to adjust my Charged voltage but I am thinking that it will likely be more related to Charged detection time.
Brad
2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
Concord, NC