Small leak in one of the hoses in the area of the alde

TerryV6

I posted this on FB, so if you’ve seen this already, sorry.  

We haven't camped in a year, so we are prepping for the coming week.  The camper has been winterized for a year, so we got it ready to go.  I noticed some moisture near this valve.  Any ideas on it?  Any easy fix?  I don't see a clamp I can tighten.  Perhaps a sealant? It’s hard to determine if it’s the drain cock valve, the fitting, or the hoses into it.  In any case, it’s not obvious and not a major leak. 

Dalehelman

If that is standard PEX tubing 1/2” OD. Check out Shark Bite brass fittings at any big box hardware store. Just slip on no tools required 

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Dale Helman

TerryV6

Thanks Dale,  I’ll look into it next week.  I should be able to get by till then...

Dalehelman

@TerryV6
The shark bite will be a bit larger, but should fit after the smaller valve is removed. You will need an 1” or so of play to fit in the new valve. If it is leaking at one of the bands it may not have been crimped tight enough. Re crimping may stop the leak. I would try that first. The tool is quite expensive but you should be able to rent or borrow one.
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Dale Helman

Pintoplumber

Those crimp rings are tight against the valve body. They shouldn’t have been. There should be a space of 1/8” to 3/16” between the ring and the valve body. Without a crimping tool, a sharkbite valve would be a good fix.

ScottG

Looks similar to the leak I had a few years ago behind the bathroom wall--just a liiiiitle drip from one of those crimped connections.

I was hoping it was a good excuse to buy a pex crimping tool, but it wouldn't have fit in the confined space (even after I hacked out a new access hatch), with a little reluctance I went with a Shark Bite and it has been leak free since.

TerryV6

For now I just did the Red/Green thing.  A few hose clamps and see how that goes...

@TerryV6 Photo size reduced.  Moderator (Sorry, I usually downsize my photos)

Dalehelman

Worth a try. Pex is really tough stuff.

Hillbilly

I’ve got a major leak happening somewhere inside the alde box, winterizing failure I suspect.  Is there a way to bypass the water heating system in the 2021 T400 alde setup?

Denny16

Yes, turn the Red handle on the Nautilus panel to Bypass/Winterizing position.  Then the hot water tank is bypassed, and not cold water goes into the tank.  

Cheers

Hillbilly

Thanks now I can at least have cold water. Cheers

Denny16

Cheers

TerryV6

So.. my hose clamps aren’t doing the job and I ordered the shark bite fitting.  First I’ll have to remove the old one.  Suggestions? When I remove the old fitting, will I have enough of my current pipe to do the job, or am I looking at adding? Then, I watched some videos on the ordered one and they said it was important to get a straight cut on the ends and also measure the depth the fitting will slide onto the pex  pipe.  They sell a pex cutter and also a depth gauge.  I could get by without the gauge I think.  How did you guys manage the cut?

ScottG

@TerryV6, you'll want fresh pipe for the new connection, so you will need to cut out the old fitting as close to the existing barb as possible. I made my cut with a tubing cutter I already owned from past projects. It's much harder to make a clean, square cut without one--particularly if you are trying to do so in an awkward position or space. I've never used a depth gauge--if in doubt I would just make a mark on the pipe before insertion.

As to whether you will have enough pipe to reconnect the new valve it's hard to say. The Shark-Bite connections seem like they might be a little longer than the barbs on a standard crimp fitting, but the bigger issue for you looks like there won't be enough pipe left between the valve and the plastic tee to properly attach the Shark-Bite. Worst case you might need to lop off the tee and replace that as well with another Shark-Bite fitting. 

TerryV6

Thanks for your input Scott.  I am sitting in the campsite having a coffee.  We are in a small state park southwest of Madison, Wi.  It has two excellent fire/viewing towers and boasts of being the second highest point in the state, the highest being Tim’s Hill, wherever that is..  My wife noticed the leak yesterday and put a towel on it.  I checked here and ordered the valve Dale mentioned.  I’ve never worked with one before, hence the questions.  As you say, I had hoped to just be able to replace old with new, but I suspect your thoughts on some pipe replacement addition will have to be the way to go for us.  As a funny aside, my wife checked the towel yesterday for dampness and somehow managed to raise the pressure relief valve.  So after supper, she started washing dishes and I was outside (staying out of the way).  I glanced to the front of the camper and saw water rolling down the slope.  What?  Nothing like a little excitement.

TerryV6

We have a leak on one side of the shut off valve (1). I tried to add some hose clamps, but they didn't do the job. I purchased a new sharkbites valve 1/2 inch and also a small pipe section just in case (2). When I put the new valve next to the old one, it is a bit bigger, leading me to believe if I measure right, I might be able to remove the old one and replace it with the new, without extra pipe. (3) I'm taking into account the size needed for insertion into each side of the valve. Off hand I think it is a little or 1/2. I bought I pex cutter to make the straight cuts. My question is how to you remove the clamps connecting the pipe to the old valve? It would be nice to save whatever length I can get. (So - how does this method sound to you guys?)

Pintoplumber

I use a fine tooth mini hacksaw and cut almost all the way through the crimp ring. Stick a straight blade screwdriver in the saw cut and twist, opening up the ring. You will probably have to warm up the tubing to pull it off the fitting.

ScottG

@TerryV6, although I previously said you want fresh cut tubing for the new connection, I retract my statement and yield to @Pintoplumber, who--unlike me--is an actual plumber.  ;-)

Which such limited length to work with, it's certainly worth a try to remove the old fitting and retain the tubing. The Shark-Bite replacement might be forgiving enough that it won't leak. If you try this, please report back on how it turns out.

TerryV6

Well, I’ve always proceeded slowly.  I do some research before proceeding.  Lots of outside concerns, but I’ve managed to install a new 7 pin connector and a Victron connect.  Someone pointed toward a tool: https://www.amazon.com/iCrimp-Cinch-Tool-Removing-function/dp/B07CCH5JWG/ref=asc_df_B07CCH5JWG/?tag&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310828259700&hvpos&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11155561667209384961&hvpone&hvptwo&hvqmt&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl&hvlocint&hvlocphy=9033755&hvtargid=pla-490791548289&psc=1&ref&adgrpid=65583250281&fbclid=IwAR0cf7dzVx3tCk3_tEY1YMsvAvtgK7CtEQA1-glTCGvr_vsoM-QoW4KgzXQ.  I probably don’t need the cutter, I have one, so I’ll look into the uncrimp tool.  I don’t remember my clips looking like the ones this tool uses. But more study needed.  Should happen in a day or two.

ScottG

@TerryV6, your observations are correct--there are two types of banded PEX fittings: copper crimp rings and steel clamp rings. You have the former in your T@B, but the tool you referenced is for the latter. I don't think that tool will work to remove the copper rings--I don't know if a similar tool exists for removing those.

TerryV6

Thanks Scott, that helps a lot..

Dalehelman

If there are crimp marks left on the PEX. You should make your cut just behind them. Shark bites use an O ring to seal so they need a clean smooth surface to slide over.

ChanW

@TerryV6, from your 'length' photo, it looks like you won't have enough extra to fit into the SharkBite, after cutting away the existing PEX where the clamps have indented.

Use another SharkBite, a coupler, to add a section of pipe.

You'll need to be able to pull the existing pipe back enough to then press it into the SharkBite, maybe ¾" or 1" insertion. Measure how deep it will go before you cut the pipe. The depth specs might be in the literature for the SharkBite.