Doing your own biannual Alde service.

Dalehelman

I have just completed draining and refilling my Alde with new coolant. The process required no special skills or tools. Just a regular wet dry Shop Vac. Simply suck out the old coolant through the fill tank, and refill with the new. No need to even pull the drain plug. It was that easy. If you like you can flush with distilled water using g to he same process.

webers3

That’s all it takes? The Changing out the Alde fluid discussion had 20k+ views and almost 700 comments, can’t be that simple….

Dalehelman

@webers3
Trust me it is. I was a good part of those discussions. Our T@B trailers are just not that complicated. I’ve had power boats, sail boats, house boats. Several various RVs from trailers to Motor homes. Our last RV Was a 40’ Winnebago Diesel pusher. That was a complicated RV. I don’t mean to brag it’s just fact over 45 years. My idea is to help if I can, and keep as simple as possible.

webers3

Well good to know, I like simple. Reading the other thread I thought I’ll never do that. Thanks

Dalehelman

My point exactly!

MarkAl

Yes can the "Sucky Dale" process part of the thread be brought over here to separate it? The pics and process is well documented but lost... (sorry but this name may make you immortal). Or should we have a contest?

Homebodyatheart

@MarkAl, bear in mind that @Dalehelman was awarded the Mod King plaque at NuCamp/UCamp one year. Much more prestigious than other names, except for “friend!”
  

qhumberd

I also agree with @Dalehelman and recognize that the long thread was all about understanding a system for which there was not clearly posted public guidance. I would never have attempted my flush and refill without the input of others who had more experience or more hutzpah than I did. When I finally moved forward with my flush and refill method, it seemed ridiculously simple after all the angst that had come before. What I would worry about is that dealers would not understand but still attempt the service and do it quickly but not thoroughly, as at least one person on this forum experienced, and leave you with a system with an airlock or even worse. I think @ScottG has posted a couple of really simple methods that just about anyone could do, and succeed. My only issue was not changing to the new fluid until we know more about why and how.

Dalehelman

I have no problem at all with the @ScottG method. I was looking for a simpler way to do the same thing. As for air locks. I vacuumed and flushed and ran my system 4 times and never experienced any air lock or air bubble problems. I really don’t care how you get it done. But it is important that it be done. I fear that few RV techs will know as mush about are Alde’s as we do.

Dalehelman

I can’t deny this idea “sucks”

webers3

The subject of changing the Alde fluid has been covered on the forum quite extensively, and I guess the overall consensus is that it is recommended to change it if you are planning keeping your T@B's heating system in the optimal working condition although after 3 years of ownership I have not noticed any degradation in the performance. So at a risk of starting another debate and provoke thought I have to ask;
How many of the owners that are proponents of changing the Alde fluid (some quite frequently) have changed the coolant in their automobile?

Denny16

We follow the biannual fluid change in our TaB400, which went 30+ months before the first fluid change.  Next time we will switch to Rhomar fluid.  Ima,so follow the fluid change recommendations in my tractor (was every two years, now with new fluids, every five years) and our vehicles.
cheers

BrianZ

@webers3, are you asking whether the coolant has been changed in our cars, or whether we've done it ourselves?

webers3

@BrianZ either way

Dalehelman

@webers3
IMHO I think automobile cooling systems are a lot more robust than the Alde is. Five years seem more common for cars. Our T@B went almost 6 years, but I consider myself lucky. In the future if I were using Alde’s recommended coolant I would replace it every 2-3 years as recommended. It’s relatively cheap Insurance.

BrianZ

@Dalehelman, I couldn't agree more that however you do it, it's most important to get it done on schedule.  If you haven't (and maybe even if you have & your Alde is 4 yrs old or more), I believe it's also very important to remove and inspect all aluminum connectors, if possible, especially under rubber hose connections at the ends of all convectors, as these seem to be most susceptible to corrosion.  And if corrosion is found, it should be cleaned and sealed from contact with glycol using a sealant and/or other physical barrier like heat shrink tubing to prolong life.

We've always followed the manufacturer's schedule on our car maintenance (which, unlike the Alde, is available from multiple nearby sources at reasonable prices), but at about 15 years of age, our tow vehicle's cooling system developed multiple leaks that required some relatively expensive rebuilding of the cooling system.  I would do what I can to keep our Alde in good shape, since professional service isn't available nearby or at a reasonable price. 

I wish I had known early on how important changing the Alde fluid can be, but was led to believe that checking pH, color, etc was good enough & would buy me time.  However, it's the crevice corrosion under the rubber hose connections that you can't see or detect that will do the damage first.  I'm not so sure that everyone shouldn't take proactive measures to protect these areas early on in their Alde system, if they are able.  If not possible, then at least follow the manufacturer's recommended schedule.  I don't want to scare anyone, but things are often just not as simple or easy as they sound.  Well, except maybe the way Dale sucks his glycol out.