Generator

Teardrop1

Any recommendations on the lightest weight most efficient generator for a Tab 400 or has anyone had any experience using a solar powered generator for a/c or microwave 

manyman297

Many here recommend the Honda EU2200i generator. I have a Westinghouse 2500w (2200 sustained watts) but have yet to try it out. My guess is it should work. The cool cat AC pulls about 1100-1300 sustained watts. The surge on startup is maybe 1800w or so but I may be off on that. 

I believe generac makes the lightest generator in the 2000-2500w range but we’re talking a few pounds lighter. 

Regarding solar, unfortunately we aren’t there yet in terms of energy storage. A goal zero might start up the AC but would quickly use up all available amp hours unless you had a large bank of lithium batteries at your disposal.

Tundra57

I installed a soft start for my cool cat 2019 tab 400. My honda 2800 generator hardly comes off idle to start the AC. Just for info. I ran a tiny two slice toaster off my inverter. I recorded 72A drawn from my battery bank while it was toasting.

Theoretically to run a 10Amp 120v AC load would draw over 160A off a 12v inverter battery. So as @manyman297 says a solar powered generator would be pretty large to run AC.

rrcbov

You might consider the Champiob 2500 dual fuel. 39 pounds

RMo

We have a 400ah lithium set up and the CoolCat draws a constant 67amps (somewhere above 800 watts).  I can’t say what the surge is as it doesn’t register on our meter but you wouldn’t think you’d need too big a generator to start it and keep it going.

The microwave draws a steady 120 amps.

N7SHG_Ham

The locked rotor start current is huge on the AC, at least double the running current. Any 2000-2500w gen should keep the AC going once started, the draw is about 1/2 the total available. The rub comes in getting it started for that partial second. Some gens don't have the reserve and overload immediately. I have a Honda 2200i with propane conversion and at 3000 feet elevation, it takes all it can do, BUT does start the AC. I think with any 2000-2500w gen, everything will be happier with a soft start. On my list is to add one of the MicroAir units.

Of note the Honda has a 120 cc engine, most if not all others in that class are 80cc, so the Honda has 50% bigger displacement. As the saying goes, no replacement for displacement!

Denny16

From my research, it takes a 2200 watt inverter to start the CoolCat, and about the same to run a small microwave.  To use one of the solar/battery power units, like the Yeti Goal Zero units.  We worked out, it takes 300-400 AmpHr battery pack running a 2,500 watt inverter to power the Cool Cat for 6-8 hrs.  So I doubt one of the smaller Goal Zero power units would power the Cool Cat very long.

A 400 amp/hrlithium battery bank and inverter setup is the minimum battery based solution, and this would occupy your under bed storage compartment.  You would also need a minimum of 400 watts of solar to charge the battery bank.  

A generator is a more practical solution as this time, until a large battery bank becomes more practical.
cheers

rrcbov

Not to start a passionate, brand-loyalty debate like happens with tow vehicles but why would one choose Honda 2200 over Champion Dual Fuel 2500?   While many specs are the same, the Champion is dual fuel, lighter by 8 pounds, more outlets, lower cost, etc.  What features and functionality differences should be considered that make a difference?  I understand there is a kit to convert the Honda to propane - does this make it dual fuel or does it replace gas operation with propane?

RMo

The Honda propane conversion kits allow you to use either propane or gas, though most people seem to use only propane.  I was going to go with a Honda 2200i for its quietness and reputation for quality.  We added a big battery, solar and inverter instead to keep it really quiet and take one more step away from fossil fuel use.  

rrcbov

It’s hard to sort out noise ratings but the Champion and Honda seem to be about the same - is this incorrect?

RMo

rrcbov said:

It’s hard to sort out noise ratings but the Champion and Honda seem to be about the same - is this incorrect?

Not sure, I thought the Honda was quieter but maybe I was just overcome with brand-loyalty passion

rrcbov

No worries you may be right - I’m just trying to be objective.  I worry about the “too good to be true” syndrome!

rrcbov

RMo said:

The Honda propane conversion kits allow you to use either propane or gas, though most people seem to use only propane.  I was going to go with a Honda 2200i for its quietness and reputation for quality.  We added a big battery, solar and inverter instead to keep it really quiet and take one more step away from fossil fuel use.  

If you don’t mind me asking but I saw a Victron 400 AH package that was about $5K without panels.   Does this seem about right for the solar solution?

rh5555

The Honda is really seems much quieter than the Champion.  But then maybe I'm also suffering from brand loyalty.  Once you've done the conversion to propane, you never look back.  Not unless you like the smell of gasoline.  We store our generator in the (converted) wardrobe:

RMo

If you don’t mind me asking but I saw a Victron 400 AH package that was about $5K without panels.   Does this seem about right for the solar solution?

The battery bank is the biggest expense.  I went with Signature Solar’s 12v 400ah G4Y-LL at $1500 and so far I’ve been very pleased.  I got CIGS solar panels which are more expensive than other flexible panels so net net with everything it came in at about $3k.

ScottG

We could do a seat-of-the-pants test of the noise specs by having you camp next to me with your generator exhausts pointed at my campsite during happy hour. I won't appreciate either, but I'll tell you which one is quieter and (not so) humbly suggest that is the one you buy.

Yeah, it's a sore spot...  ;-)

pthomas745

I've said this before:  57 DB of Led Zeppelin gets me a visit from the campground host.  A 57 DB generator is "Quiet". 

What I want to see: comparisons of the little attenuators that limit generator noise,

https://www.google.com/search?q=generator+sound+enclosure&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ALeKk03TDyfzUdfgXor5FbEFLOj5m6uyVw:1623161514577&ei=qnq_YKbNIpLW9AOGxYFA&oq=generator+sound+attenuated+enclosure&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYATIHCAAQRxCwAzIHCAAQRxCwAzIHCAAQRxCwAzIHCAAQRxCwAzIHCAAQRxCwAzIHCAAQRxCwAzIHCAAQRxCwAzIHCAAQRxCwA1AAWABgi50CaAFwAngAgAFliAFlkgEDMC4xmAEAqgEHZ3dzLXdpesgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz

PS:  The vast majority of my camping the generator users have been polite.  And, no, I don't play Led Zep that loud.  Mostly. 

Verna

ZZTop must be played at 60+ DB😂

Denny16

RMo said:

If you don’t mind me asking but I saw a Victron 400 AH package that was about $5K without panels.   Does this seem about right for the solar solution?

Yes, a 400 amp hr lithium battery bank with 3K Inverter is what you need.  However, youTaB 400 only has about a 185 Watt solar panel setup, you need 400 watts of solar total for 400 amp hr battery bank (100 watts of solar panels for ever 100 amps of battery). You could add two 100 watt (or 200 watt solar suitcase) portable solar panels and an additional Victron controller, to supplement your roof top solar panel.
cheers

N7SHG_Ham

@rrcbov one reason the Honda may be better is bigger engine, by 50%! The Honda does cost more, but perhaps you do get more. There was a post this week where a person reported that dual fuel Champion would NOT start and run the AC in a 400. Apparently NOT all 2000w class of generators are equal. My Honda 2200i with propane conversion will start and run the AC in my 400.

RMo

Denny16 said:

Yes, a 400 amp hr lithium battery bank with 3K Inverter is what you need.  However, youTaB 400 only has about a 185 Watt solar panel setup, you need 400 watts of solar total for 400 amp hr battery bank (100 watts of solar panels for ever 100 amps of battery).

@Denny16 - I'm sure you have some rationale for telling us we "need" 400 watts of solar, but in our use cases we get by just fine with 160 watts.  We have 400ah of lithium and 200ah of AGM batteries that can get us through numerous days off grid even with occasional A/C and microwave use.  Our solar gives us enough power on a good day to make up for our normal daily non-inverter battery use, and when we travel the solar in combo with the alternator power our 3-way fridge on DC without draining the batteries.  Sure, I'd love to have 400 watts of solar, but for us it would be more wasting money than meeting a need.

I would be interested in knowing the rationale behind your 100 watts of solar for ever 100ah of battery rule.

Cheers

rrcbov

@RMo - Can you share more about having both AGM and Lithium batteries?   I’d like to add storage but would rather not scrap my new AGMs.  How is this set up?  

RMo

rrcbov said:

@RMo - Can you share more about having both AGM and Lithium batteries?   I’d like to add storage but would rather not scrap my new AGMs.  How is this set up?  

Sure, love to share.  First I set up the 400ah lithium battery connected to solar and to the 3000w inverter (we had no inverter in the original T@B) with a transfer switch to shut of the inverter connection when shore was connected, and a 75 amp charger tied into shore power.  Then I added an A/B/Off switch between the two battery banks and the house DC converter/fuse box so I could charge either battery while driving or use either bank  for DC.    The line from the 400ah to the house converter has a contactor switch so that the connection between the converter and the 400ah battery is cut off if the inverter comes on - to avoid self charging of the battery if I forget to change the A/B switch.

I have the battery, inverter, charger and contactor mounted on a removable platform under the bed so i can go back to original if/as needed.  So far, so good.  Hope that helps and I'd be glad to answer any other questions.