Need Renogy Information

AnOldUR

I ordered a Renogy 100W Eclipse Monocrystalline Solar Suitcase, but Amazon sent me a the lower priced non "Eclipse" version. I set up a return and ordered a replacement, but am curious if any of you knows what makes these so different. Although they're both 12V/100W, the weight, dimensions and some of the electrical specs are not the same. I would guess that the Eclipse is the newer, better version based on price alone, but I can't find anything to back that up. Has anyone researched this and gained some knowledge that they would share? Thanks.

Eclipse:
https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-eclipse-monocrystalline-solar-suitcase/

non-Eclipse:
https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase-with-voyager/

Sharon_is_SAM

We have both units without the controller.  You have compared the specs - essentially the same.  The Eclipse is lighter and smaller.  They both work.

AnOldUR

@Sharon_is_SAM ... I'd hoped to find someone with both models, but didn't expect I would. Thanks for the reply! Do you notice or have you tested to see if one is more efficient than the other? Does the lighter weight of the Eclipse have any impact on the build quality? Do you think one will out last the other?

After reading posts by you and others, I also planned to use a Victron controller and pair my rooftop with the suitcase. The one I ordered came with a controller, but the price I found was better than one's without. Unfortunately, receiving the wrong suitcase took that benefit away.

CrabTab

@AnOldUR, we've had a Renogy Eclipse 100W for several years now. No issues with build quality. We chose it primarily for the smaller size and same output ratings as the other panel. I can't compare the two, like @Sharon_is_SAM can though.

I recently disconnected the PWM controller to use the panel with a separate MPPT controller, as your planning to do. It was a simple task, four screws to disconnect the wires. I left the original controller attached, since it isn't in the way of anything.

Sharon_is_SAM

@AnOldUR - we did not do any testing as the specs are nearly identical.  As far as build quality - they have both held up well with our not so careful handling😊.  I think your MPPT controller will offset any inefficiencies (if any) in the older/cheaper model.  We use a Renogy PWM controller and we are more than satisfied.  

You can easily remove the built in controller and retire.  @Scottg did that.  Ours was purchased without the controller and we set up a portable system at the battery.  Wow - really flexible marine wire allows for compact storage of 30 feet of extension!

Good luck.  Let us know how you tie in the portable panels to the installed controller.  You may be one of the first to do so.

pthomas745

I have an older "poly" panel from 2013, and a newer "Eclipse" panel from just two years ago.  The difference in size in the newer panel is well worth the upgrade.  The 2013 panel seems like a barn door now, and it still works fine.  In fact, the PWM controller that came with it, even with the plastic label off and as scuffed up as it got...still works.

The other "advantage" of the Eclipse is supposed to be "bypass diodes" that help the panel in shaded situations.  I'd say that advantage may be small.  And, I've never been able to measure the difference in a PWM and MPPT controller under the "far from laboratory" conditions I've used my panels.  All my stuff.....just works.

AnOldUR

Sharon_is_SAM said:

Good luck.  Let us know how you tie in the portable panels to the installed controller.  You may be one of the first to do so.

Here's what I have so far. I attached a fused SAE receptacle to the outside of my tongue box and purchased a 20' 10AWG SAE extension to plug into it. From there there's a SAE adapter to plug into the Renogy. The one thing I don't like is that the color coding on the adapter is reversed. I can see it being confusing after a beer or three. Maybe just cover adapter cable so that the red to black connection doesn't show.

Not a compliant, but this all seemed too easy. Can't help but think I missed something.

I still need to silicone seal the receptacle. The diamond bumps prevent a flush fit.

CrabTab

@AnOldUR, you're doing it right. And yes, it is pretty easy. I used a pair of distribution blocks before the controller to join the rooftop and portable panels for my install. My Victron is in the tub (home install). The first pic shows the Lexan panel on the workbench. The second one you (hopefully) can see the power enter my tub through the cutout and to the blocks. My 2019 tub wasn't solid like yours. I had to build my own back wall to mount items. I chose Lexan because it was nonconductive and I had some it in the workshop.




My briefcase line enters the back of the tub using an SAE, just like yours (no need to post a pic of that). Hope this gives you some ideas for your install...

AnOldUR

@CrabTab ... Nice install. One question. You have a second fuse between the controller and the solar panel. For now I'm using the on-board controller, but they did not put a fuse between the controller and the panels. Was what you did just for extra peace of mind or is it good practice (or code) to add this protection?

As I said above, my plan is to disconnect the Renogy controller and place a Victron controller in the tongue box close to the battery. Your photos will be helpful. Thanks.

CrabTab

@AnOldUR Renogy recommends a fuse between the panels and controller, controller and battery and before the inverter. Here is a link to my source...

https://www.renogy.com/blog/how-to-fuse-your-solar-system/

AnOldUR

@CrabTab ... Thanks for the link. That does make sense, but you have to wonder why they don't follow that recommendation in their own solar suitcase.