2008 Dutchman TAB GFCI problem.

tcassem

My GFCI by the fuse box is not working. All other outlets are working when hooked to correct power (battery or home). The test button works. The reset button does not appear to stay in. I pulled the GFCI out and there were five wires coming from it. Can someone explain them to me? I need to replace the GFCI but most say three wire.  

rfuss928

Three wires input.  Two additional wires plus ground for additional protected outlets.

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Outlet-Connected-to-the-Load-Terminals-are-GFCI-Protected.png

ChrisFix

@tcassem
Your photo shows white (neutral) and black (hot) 115V going into the fixture and the red and gray should be the hot and neutral to a downstream protected fixture (the load). Not certain of the hot/neutral color of the downstream. And green is a ground. All GFCI outlets have the ability to be wired with all 5 wires you have (connecting to a load).

This clip from Home Depot may help regarding GFCI wiring:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Duplex-SmarTest-Self-Test-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Outlet-White-4-Pack-M42-GFTR1-04W/305340161#overlay

tcassem

This is very helpful, thanks! I think there are six wires coming into the box, probably for the outlet by the sink and the outside outlet. They are pigtailed and connected to the GFCI. There is not much room in that box. I will pick up a new GFCI today and take another look at the outlet.

tcassem

Well, I bought and installed the GFCI, and it works great. I did get the 20 amp outlet only because the one that was in there was 20 amp. Hope this is ok.  Thanks for your help!

ScottG

Yep, the 20 amp outlet is fine. The limitations of an electrical circuits are determined by the rating of breaker protecting the circuit, which in turn is determined by the size of the wire used in the circuit. A 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit will still deliver a maximum of only 15 amps.

tcassem

I assumed this as well. Thanks for the help!