The T@b modification and maintenance guy today, on his youtube channel, came up with a potential flaw, in some models of the 320s. This is the recepticle vent of the outside freshwater fill spout vent not being connected. This is a biggie if it is not connected. Please take a view. Moderator please post the link. For reference, my 2017 CS-S is connected. Thank you.
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In retrospect, I should have known the vent was hooked up correctly because when we'd fill the freshwater tank, the vent hole would "burp" water as the tank filled.
I'm not saying that this particular vent system works well, but the vast majority of T@B owners should not need to worry about this issue, and they should definitely NOT plug that vent hole as described in the video!
Quick question...how is your tank suspended under the body? Did they attach it in similar fashion as Mark's solution? I would think you would want to hit some of the aluminum tubing in the floor to support the weight and handle the stress of bouncing.
The middle of the tank also sits right on the axle, at least at the edges. My tank is a little misshapen and the bottom bulges up a bit in the center. I've wondered about the possibility of the axle wearing away at the tank, but so far I've seen no obvious problems.
I haven't watched Mark's video that closely so I'm not sure as to how his is secured.
Mark's 12 video project is long but there's a lot going on, from moving the pump and adding a pressure tank to adding the new tank underneath and all the plumbing. He welded a "basket like" frame that screws to the camper bottom...only . He used a lot of screws but I've not found whatever plywood is on the bottom of the body to be very substantial unless you hit aluminum framing members. A full 7 gallon tank will weigh in at 58 lbs, assuming you can actually fill it completely. And a partially full tank will be sloshing back and forth with considerable force during towing. A tank with baffles would be nice. I prefer the idea of "through the floor" bolting. I currently have 4 holes in my floor anyway where I had to drill out the bolts holding the step so I may pursue at least locating tank bolt locations before I lay down a new floor.
Mine is not an Outback model. I haven't measured the gap above the axle but 3-3/4" is probably about right.
Mark's relocation of the pump caught my eye. While I'm not sure I would go through the trouble to do this, I suspect it might prove a better configuration. Although I've never taken an actual measurement, I'm under the impression that--for various reasons--it is not possible to empty the FW tank completely before the pump loses prime. This effectively means my 11 gallon FW capacity is in reality several gallons short of that. However, since I carry a 6 gallon jug and most always have a source of FW somewhere in the vicinity, I just keep the tank topped up and find other things to worry about.
I'm really considering moving my FW tank to the basement but I use my camper throughout the winter and I wouldn't want the pump outside the body (Mark apparently parks his over the winter). I like the expansion tank idea and if i move the FW tank I'll move the pump + expansion to the back of that cab space where my FW tank is now.
Too bad there isn't an access panel behind the "rock shield" on the front behind the battery/propane storage.