Buck Converter

Browsing I found an interesting video that recommended using a buck converter to stabilize the voltage to electrical devices. Thinking about adding one to the 12V circuit that feeds my audio/visual components. The video said it could lengthen their life by not feeding them high or low voltage. Is this a recommended thing? Anyone else here doing this?


Stockton, New Jersey
2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler

Comments

  • ckjsckjs Member Posts: 74
    Boost/buck converters always have a small ripple in their output. They’re typically used when you know that the input and output voltages differ, or the input is variable.
    Our T@b’s batteries already provide dead smooth power. They moderate any reasonable surges (from a faulty 120->12v converter, I suppose?) by charging the cells a bit faster for a second or two or more, until the state of charge reaches 100%.
    This EE doesn’t see the purpose of them for a camper. 


    Charles & Judy, Santa Cruz, CA
    2018 T@B 320 CS-S; Alde 3020; 4 cyl 2020 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
  • AnOldURAnOldUR Member Posts: 1,420
    edited February 2022
    ckjs said:
    Our T@b’s batteries already provide dead smooth power....
    I was thinking the same thing, that nuCamp would have built something in to smooth out the power. But I put a meter on the circuit that feeds the audio/video devices while on shore power and it read around 13.6V. When not on shore power with rested batteries it reads up to 12.9V and drop from there as the batteries drain. This varying voltage is what I thought may be harmful to equipment designed to run at 12V.

    Stockton, New Jersey
    2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler

  • Grumpy_GGrumpy_G Member Posts: 546
    Equipment designed to run in an automotive-style system has (or should have) a wide range of input voltages from close to discharged up to equalization voltage. No need to worry. 
  • AnOldURAnOldUR Member Posts: 1,420
    edited February 2022
    Where I may have gone wrong @Grumpy_G is that I've swapped out my Jensen stuff for an LG Blu-ray/DVD player and a computer monitor that were both powered by 120V to 12V power supplies. They and some other equipment are wired directly to the 12V source that originally fed the Jensen. They've worked fine for quite some time hooked up this way. I was just concerned about long term problems developing after seeing the above mentioned video.

    Stockton, New Jersey
    2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler

  • Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 5,431
    Most 12VDC electronic equipment has a DC/DC power supply, that takes 12-14.5 VDC and converts it to the required voltage for the device, which is 3.x-7.5 VDC.  This includes most consumer electronics.  My 12VDC pro video equipment is also setup this way, as a fully charged 12VDC battery can be as high as 14.5VDC, and drops to 11.x VDC when discharged to minimum use point.  The DC/DC power supply is designed to work with this variable inout voltage.  Not to worry, but if you want to add a Buck type DC/DC voltage regulator, it will just add additional protection.  Personally, I think this is unnecessary, and why add more power draw to the circuit…
    cheers
    2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock,  Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
  • AnOldURAnOldUR Member Posts: 1,420
    edited February 2022
    Thanks @Denny16. It does make sense that there would be other power conversions going on. The source I mentioned was actually referring an LED light strip being burnt out by higher voltage, but in that case there would be nothing between the 12V input and the COB LED's.
    edit to add that I have to stop over thinking this stuff.
    Stockton, New Jersey
    2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler

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