Removing clamps

rgsteele

My 2021 T@B 320 Boondock S has a leak on the cold water line under the sink where it connects to an elbow.  I haven't encounter clamps like the ones used at the factory and I don't know the best way of removing them so that I can make the repair.  I will replace the clamp with a screw/ring type.  What is the best way of removing the clamp?  Thank you

screwlose

Sharkbite clamps, they are all the rage with PEX tubing
The clamp tool is easily found in any Plumbing Department these days

Grumpy_G

Cutting pliers, cut the cinch loop. Having said that, you won't be able to get the connection tight with a standard hose clamp. The PEX tubing is not very pliable and requires the specific clamps that also need to be installed with a specific tool. 

MarkAl

I haven't had a connection leak (yet) with these connections. Sounds like a good tool and extra clamps to have in the tool kit. I'm not close to the trailer right now is there only 1 size PEX so I can get away with 1 size? Now I hope the tool can get in where I need to re-clamp.

Dutch061

The PEX is 1/2" in our campers. There are other sizes, but they would use the same crimping tool but with a different sized clamp.

It is possible that you could just tighten the crimp on the existing clamp with the proper tool. It is also possible that you may have to replace a fitting or section of hose.

There is also another style of clamp, but the tool is much larger and probably more difficult to get into the area.

Brad

SLJ

I carry a PEX tool with me along with a few clamps and a couple of pieces of PEX left over from when we re-did our basement water lines.

Tabnero

pex tool, get the one that ratchets not the cheaper one that does not. These clamps are hard to cut and not possible without the better tool. I would stay away from shark bite and stay consistent. That way you only need to create a small plumbing repair kit for the road that could service any connection. ask me how I know.

kottum

These clamps should not leak with normal water pressure.  I've had pex connections in a previous camper leak, but found the water pressure was too high because of water expansion in the closed system.  When water heats up, it expands and will find the weakest point to relieve some pressure.

The water expansion in our Airstream trailer was from the water heater, but it may also be from cold water warming up as the trailer interior warms.  

I solved the problem, not by tightening fittings and clamps, but by adding a small water pressure expansion tank.  I placed it under the sink by disconnecting the cold water supply and hooking it to one side of the expansion tank, and buying and adding another supply line from the expansion tank to the cold water faucet. No more leaks.

The little water pressure expansion tanks are available at RV stores and Amazon.  I'll add one to our new T@b 320 soon.

Doug K

kottum

Actually, it's called a water pressure accumulator (rather than tank).
Here's the one I installed in our Airstream:

https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B000N9VF6Q/ref=asc_df_B000N9VF6Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312739500877&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17235574251872259912&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030132&hvtargid=pla-434846988215&psc=1

Doug K

blackoaktree

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082KRLLBX?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_Y39B4Y7EEGDRE79PYBPX
Get one of these tools - they will easily cut the clamp. It's still tough to pull these apart. The type of plumbing clamps to use is subject to many opinions. I've found that the pinch style clamps are the easiest to use and rarely fail if you install them correctly (and use the correct size clamp). In my opinion, worm gear clamps are probably the worst to use - they tend to get over tightened. I replace a lot of those. The push to connect fittings are good too, but they are expensive. I use those only when I can't get in a space with a crimper.  The white shark bite fittings are tough to push together all the way. It's also easy to over tighten the screw collar. 

fstop32

A word of warning on going to a "push to connect", aka SharkBite fittings.  You will probably have to shorten the hose to eliminate the end that had been under the crimp connector as it will have impressions that will cause the push to connect fitting to not seal properly and leak.
If you do go "p to c" read the instructions on how deep a full connection is and then make a Sharpie mark on your hose so you will know when you have fully inset the hose into the fitting.

Passport

I put 1/2" PEX in my well tank fittings, can anyone tell me what size in the Tab 320s lines?  They look smaller than 1/2".

ScottG

Mine are 1/2", except the short pigtail connections to the Alde. Those appear to be 3/8"--a reducer fitting is used to make the transition between sizes.

N7SHG_Ham

@ScottG I think the reducer is to metric, since the Alde is imported, not sure of the size, but likely a difficult item to find in the plumbing isle

ScottG

That is very likely. I know it's approximately 3/8" but I can't confirm the actual size. It's definitely smaller than the regular plumbing.