Do I Need a Drop Hitch?

B11

If you have the following configuration: 2022 F150 TV and 2022 T@b 400 Bondock, please let me know if you need/use a drop ball mount/drop shank/drop hitch(terms used interchangeably on this site).

I'm picking up our new 400bd Friday and would like to be prepared with the proper ball height ahead of pick up.

I'm considering one of the following items.
https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/

https://www.curtmfg.com/part/45928

Thanks in advance.

Grumpy_G

IIRC you do need some drop at the hitch, a friend of mine tows a 400BD with an F150 but I'll let others chime in. In any case you do not need a $600+ 14k hitch, and I think the 3" receiver doesn't work on the F150 anyways. 

The ball height is around 20" on the trailer so could just do the math from your hitch receiver height (account for some sag with the trailer hooked up) and get a regular drop hitch. 

B11

@Grumpy_G Thanks for the info. I see I put the incorrect link for the Curt brand drop hitch. Definitely wouldn't purchase something that heavy duty for a Tab 400!
Nor do I want a 3" receiver. Totally messed that one up.

B11

@Grumpy_G This is what I meant to include but now I think that is overkill as well.
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/45900

Bayliss

@B11, the below link is the best (clearest) description I have found as to how to properly measure the "rise" or "drop of a tow hitch: 

https://camperreport.com/how-to-determine-the-proper-hitch-height-for-a-travel-trailer/

Here's my modified summary of what it states, but you need the trailer to make the proper measurements (maybe you can do that at the dealership in advance of picking up your trailer):  With the tow vehicle on a level surface, measure from the ground to the top edge of the hitch receiver (i.e., the inner edge at the top of the square opening of the receiver housing.]  Record the measurement to the nearest quarter inch.  Then, with the trailer level, measure from the ground to the bottom edge of the trailer’s coupler.  Again, record the measurement to the nearest quarter inch.  Next, subtract the height of the receiver from the height of the coupler.  If the measurement is negative (i.e.,  the trailer coupler is lower than the tow vehicle's receiver), you need to “drop” the height of the hitch.  If it’s positive (i.e., the trailer coupler is higher than the tow vehicle's receiver), you need to "raise" the height of the hitch.  Once you have determined the difference between the two heights, round it up to the nearest half-inch or whole number.  Height differences that are less than an inch won’t usually make a big difference in the grand scheme of things, and it’s easier to adjust when you’re measuring with whole numbers.  So, for example, if you have a 13″ hitch height and a 10″ coupler height, you need a 3″ drop. But with a 15″ coupler height, you’d need a 2″ rise.

GOOD VIDEO DESCRIPTION (by CURT MFG):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dgmo5w7ddVw&t=2s

Grumpy_G

B11 said:

@Grumpy_G This is what I meant to include but now I think that is overkill as well.
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/45900

 I have that hitch but don't use it for the T@b, it's overkill indeed. Plus I need a little more drop (different setup from yours). 

If you go down that route the hitch is much cheaper on Amazon and the free shipping is nothing to scoff at because that thing is heavy. 

Otoh if you take some measurements and do some math (see post above) you can probably get away with $50 worth of drop hitch and trailer ball. Maybe another $10 for the wrench to tighten the ball. 

VictoriaP

The only reason I can see to have an adjustable hitch insert is if you’re towing with more than one vehicle. Otherwise, it makes sense to simply get the correct rise or drop for your tow vehicle/trailer combo.

I left it up to the dealer to figure out on my arrival to pick up my trailer; they knew more than I did about correct sizing and about how to compensate for how much sag the added tongue weight might add to my car. It was one less thing for me to worry about.