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2019 T@B 400 Bath Fan Replaced with MaxxFan 4301K that is too tall for the roof
qhumberd
Member Posts: 471
I have commented on a couple of threads about the shortcomings of the bath fan in the 400. Mine is a 2019 model year with build date of Oct 2018. As there are a lot of variations in the builds I thought it might be helpful to show the steps to remove and replace the fan in my model. I changed out to a basic Maxxfan I sourced from Camping World. Cost was about 130 dollars. Should have checked the dimensions as it did clearly state fan was for a minimum roof thickness of 2 inches. Other models with numbers above 5000 specify a minimum roof thickness of 1 1/8 inches, which happens to be right where the T@B roof is. My bad. Even worse when I did not notice until the last step of installation!
I did find that the original fan is still made and can be found at RV outlets, if you are really attached to the current one.
First the removal of the old fan, a Dometic EZBreeze that came with the unit, was pretty straightforward on the inside.
The unit removes with 4 screws and the fan unit drops away from the trim ring. The trim ring then is held by 4 long screws and acts as a clamp to the roof vent. If you did want to replace this fan with the exact same all you would need to do is drop out the fan unit and replace with the new and you would not have to mess with anything on the roof. However you will see why a new fan is better further down.
My fan failed as have many others, due to the 4 plastic mounts shown below cracking and then allowing the small fan blades to jam.
Not to mention the little push OFF/ ON switch om the left which also fails. Once you see this you get motivated to put in something better because the design and materials of this fan are just awful. The little fan motor, though, is pretty sturdy and is going to make a nice little box fan project for the grandkids.
Now you have the unhappy task of removing the roof vent portion of the old fan. After I managed to carefully scrape away sealant I found 28 self tapping screws that have been put through the aluminum mounting frame, which is quite sturdy. All screws in mine were #2 Robertson square head. I reused many of these as they are so easy to put in and take out without the head stripping. This mounting frame is another example of good build quality from NuCamp creating a sturdy and long lasting little trailer.
To be clear on the wiring the black wire in my unit is the + POS lead, and the white wire is - NEG. Also note the aluminum skin and the interior thin veneer which is just below the aluminum framing. I was not able to measure but the mounting aluminum frame extends back at least 2 inches from the edge, giving you plenty of space to drill. I was concerned to think to measure the metal frame for mounting screws, and never occurred to measure the thickness of the roof. Don't be like me when you replace a fan.
Take a break now and get some solvent and elbow grease ready for cleaning the remaining sealant from the opening, which fortunately is a 14x14 inch standard opening. I picked denatured alcohol as it was compatible with the new fan plastic. Rub and pick and scrape and you will keep finding more. Then when you are tired enough you can quit.
The new fan I chose is a bit different from the fancy models as it has fan and mounting all as one piece. And it is taller than the more expensive models as well.
It exhausts and can run in ceiling fan mode with the cover closed. The instructions were good. You need butyl tape to cover the underside along where the screws penetrate and Dicor self leveling roof sealant. This was the step I should have sent the fan back for a swap to an appropriate unit but I forged ahead, happy that I knew what I was doing.
I had to prepare new crimp connectors for the fan to connect to the trailer, then center the fan in the opening and mark it so you can put it back after the butyl tape is applied, as you can't move it once it is down. Again the instructions remind you of these steps.
Remember that the frame around the opening is aluminum so drill appropriate pilot holes and avoid the power wires of course. Even with pilot holes a few screws were a bit reluctant to go in. Fortunately this replacement fan there are only 16 screws. Plus the fact that I screwed myself cause it was not coming back out at this point.
The inside and the trim ring on this fan are a bit different as well as the four flat head screws are going to hit the aluminum frame from below. The garnish ring needs to be trimmed per the instructions to make it fit flush. Somehow I fantasized that the trim ring would magically cover the fan that was now protruding down exactly 7/8 inch from the ceiling, just as Maxxfan had predicted.
The test of the fan prior to sealing it down was a pleasant surprise. I was used to our main cabin fan, which is a bit loud and has a whine, and the original bath fan, which was very loud and rattled incessantly. When I turned this Maxxfan on low speed, I had to look to ensure it was actually turning. I only noticed the slightest fan noise when I got to setting 3, and the air movement was markedly improved. It suddenly felt like it was worth the time and trouble as I could actually prop the bath door at night and leave this on and not even hear it operating. So that means I really like the fan.
Now the trim is installed and the reality of the mistake starts to sink in. Thinking about the moisture from the shower. @Denny16 mentions that as well. He usually gets it right, so maybe we can just stop showers. No, the wife does not agree. After some good ideas from the forum (thanks @Sharon_is_SAM) I decide on a flexible trim/caulk strip that will seal the gap of about 1/4 inch and will require enough work, bending and straining to make the lesson stick as well as the trim hopefully does.
Now on to camping for a full week, which is always more fun. Good times to all who are getting to go to UCamp22! We hope to get up there some year.
I did find that the original fan is still made and can be found at RV outlets, if you are really attached to the current one.
First the removal of the old fan, a Dometic EZBreeze that came with the unit, was pretty straightforward on the inside.
The unit removes with 4 screws and the fan unit drops away from the trim ring. The trim ring then is held by 4 long screws and acts as a clamp to the roof vent. If you did want to replace this fan with the exact same all you would need to do is drop out the fan unit and replace with the new and you would not have to mess with anything on the roof. However you will see why a new fan is better further down.
My fan failed as have many others, due to the 4 plastic mounts shown below cracking and then allowing the small fan blades to jam.
Not to mention the little push OFF/ ON switch om the left which also fails. Once you see this you get motivated to put in something better because the design and materials of this fan are just awful. The little fan motor, though, is pretty sturdy and is going to make a nice little box fan project for the grandkids.
Now you have the unhappy task of removing the roof vent portion of the old fan. After I managed to carefully scrape away sealant I found 28 self tapping screws that have been put through the aluminum mounting frame, which is quite sturdy. All screws in mine were #2 Robertson square head. I reused many of these as they are so easy to put in and take out without the head stripping. This mounting frame is another example of good build quality from NuCamp creating a sturdy and long lasting little trailer.
To be clear on the wiring the black wire in my unit is the + POS lead, and the white wire is - NEG. Also note the aluminum skin and the interior thin veneer which is just below the aluminum framing. I was not able to measure but the mounting aluminum frame extends back at least 2 inches from the edge, giving you plenty of space to drill. I was concerned to think to measure the metal frame for mounting screws, and never occurred to measure the thickness of the roof. Don't be like me when you replace a fan.
Take a break now and get some solvent and elbow grease ready for cleaning the remaining sealant from the opening, which fortunately is a 14x14 inch standard opening. I picked denatured alcohol as it was compatible with the new fan plastic. Rub and pick and scrape and you will keep finding more. Then when you are tired enough you can quit.
The new fan I chose is a bit different from the fancy models as it has fan and mounting all as one piece. And it is taller than the more expensive models as well.
It exhausts and can run in ceiling fan mode with the cover closed. The instructions were good. You need butyl tape to cover the underside along where the screws penetrate and Dicor self leveling roof sealant. This was the step I should have sent the fan back for a swap to an appropriate unit but I forged ahead, happy that I knew what I was doing.
I had to prepare new crimp connectors for the fan to connect to the trailer, then center the fan in the opening and mark it so you can put it back after the butyl tape is applied, as you can't move it once it is down. Again the instructions remind you of these steps.
Remember that the frame around the opening is aluminum so drill appropriate pilot holes and avoid the power wires of course. Even with pilot holes a few screws were a bit reluctant to go in. Fortunately this replacement fan there are only 16 screws. Plus the fact that I screwed myself cause it was not coming back out at this point.
The inside and the trim ring on this fan are a bit different as well as the four flat head screws are going to hit the aluminum frame from below. The garnish ring needs to be trimmed per the instructions to make it fit flush. Somehow I fantasized that the trim ring would magically cover the fan that was now protruding down exactly 7/8 inch from the ceiling, just as Maxxfan had predicted.
The test of the fan prior to sealing it down was a pleasant surprise. I was used to our main cabin fan, which is a bit loud and has a whine, and the original bath fan, which was very loud and rattled incessantly. When I turned this Maxxfan on low speed, I had to look to ensure it was actually turning. I only noticed the slightest fan noise when I got to setting 3, and the air movement was markedly improved. It suddenly felt like it was worth the time and trouble as I could actually prop the bath door at night and leave this on and not even hear it operating. So that means I really like the fan.
Now the trim is installed and the reality of the mistake starts to sink in. Thinking about the moisture from the shower. @Denny16 mentions that as well. He usually gets it right, so maybe we can just stop showers. No, the wife does not agree. After some good ideas from the forum (thanks @Sharon_is_SAM) I decide on a flexible trim/caulk strip that will seal the gap of about 1/4 inch and will require enough work, bending and straining to make the lesson stick as well as the trim hopefully does.
Now on to camping for a full week, which is always more fun. Good times to all who are getting to go to UCamp22! We hope to get up there some year.
2019 T@B400 Boondock Lite "Todd"
2016 Toyota Tundra 5.7 Crew Cab
Comments
Cheers
2019 T@B400 Rogue
2012 VW Touareg 3.0 TDI
Based on the literature the Dome Plus might be an ideal fan for the 400 Bath.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 51 Nights: 322 Towing Miles 41,200+
The round fan is new to the 2022 model. I really like it so far except it doesn't have a reverse option which I used to help dry things out after a shower.
Cheers
cheers
2019 T@B400 Boondock Lite "Todd"
2019 T@B400 Boondock Lite "Todd"
cheers
2019 T@B400 Boondock Lite "Todd"
Cheers