Tire changing needs?

shines

As clueless as I am, I’ve realized that I don’t know exactly how to change out a flat tire on my Tab400.  I’ve now watched a couple of videos.  Is it really true that these campers come with none of the tools I need, besides a spare tire?

manyman297

Basically yes. I carry an impact wrench wherever we camp so that really takes care of the removal of the tire. The other tricky part is getting the trailer high enough to avoid having to remove the fender to remove the tire. Otherwise you have to remove the fender which in itself is a ridiculous oversight on Nucamp’s part. 

Look for a good scissor jack that has a good range of motion. Bottle jacks work but they may be too tall to get under the axle when the tire is flat. 

But having that impact wrench is a game changer vs. your typical lug wrench. And we use it on our stabilizer jacks too so you get a dual use out of them. 

MuttonChops

I cannot speak for the model 400, however. . .On the '18 320S nüCamp did not supply a lug wrench and the lug nut size most likely is not the same as your tow vehicle.

As for 'jacking up' the trailer to change a tire;
the stabilization jacks and front wheel jack do the job - - - and I expect they will do so on a model 400.

Only real issue is on Boondock models as the AT Style Tires can be difficult to  install (they fall out just fine, but getting them back in is a pain - - but very doable)

falcon1970

DO NOT use the stabilizer legs to try to jack the 400 up.  You will damage them.  As a matter of fact nuCamp no longer recommends using the stab jacks on the 320 either.

Any socket that fits your lug nuts will work but an impact socket is stronger than a regular socket.  I don't remember what size I use but you should check yours anyway rather than relying on what fits older models.  nuCamp makes a lot of changes from time to time.  After you find the correct socket, use a regular 1/2" drive ratchet wrench.  If you want you can use a piece of pipe over the end of the wrench to give you additional leverage but even at 90 ft-lbs of torque you should be able to loosen the lug nuts with the wrench.  The trick is to loosen the lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground.  

A safe procedure is as follows:

A.  Chock the wheel opposite the one you are changing.  Both sides of the wheel.
B.  Leave the trailer connected to the tow vehicle and put the tow vehicle in park with the parking brake set.
C.  Place your jack under the flat plate where the axle is bolted to the frame.  DO NOT place the jack on the axle. It will bend the axle.  A bottle jack (in my opinion) doesn't have enough bearing on that plate for safety.  A scissor jack has a wider, longer head than a bottle jack and will bear on more of the plate.  You might--depending on your tow vehicle--find that the jack that came with your vehicle will work well also.
D.  Loosen the lug nuts.  You can even remove them completely at this point.
E.  Raise the trailer with the jack until the tire clears the ground.  If you have a flat tire you will have to remember to raise the jack enough so you can get a fully inflated tire back on.  Four inches above a fully inflated tire is enough to get the new tire on "easily."
F.  Remove the flat tire and install the inflated tire.  You may have to finesse the inflated tire into the wheel well.  I have found that putting the top of the tire in and rotating the tire slightly rearward seems to work.
G.  install your lug nuts finger tight with the wheel seated firmly against the hub.
H.  Lower the jack.
I.  Tighten the lug nuts to 90 ft-lbs of torque.  You probably don't carry a torque wrench so make them tight but you don't need to find a gorilla to tighten them.  Stop and check that the lug nuts haven't loosened any after about 50 miles.  Have them properly torqued as soon as you can.  Since you no longer have a spare tire and you might need one (you just did need a spare didn't you?) you should get your flat tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can.  That tire shop will check the torque for you.

MuttonChops

falcon1970 said:

DO NOT use the stabilizer legs. . .  nuCamp no longer recommends using the stab jacks on the 320 either.

Please provide a reference for this.

On the '18 and similar year 320's each stabilizing Jack can handle 1,000# while the total trailer weight is 2,900#.  So jacking up the trailer using  three points of ground contact is not a big deal at each point; front tongue jack, 'good' wheel, and rear stabilizing jack will only have  966# Worse Case load.

Denny16

Whilst the stabilizing Jack is rated for 1,000lbs, the frame attache point is not rated for that much weight, especially on the TaB400, the practice of using the stabilizing jacks to,change the fire is no longer recommended by nüCamp.
 Cheers 

TNOutback

The bottle jack I had purchased for changing the trailer tires ended up not lifting high enough to get the tire off the ground.  So I purchased a larger jack that had a built in jack stand, but its minimum height is too tall to fit under the frame behind the tire.  So, I carry both jacks now; the smaller bottle jack lifts the frame enough for me to put the larger jack underneath so I can get the tire off the ground!

Slackers

I follow what @falcon1970 wrote except the second part of step D.  I wait until the trailer is completely jacked to the desired height before doing more than breaking the lugs loose.  That's just in case I somehow failed to double-check the jack was secured on the trailer jacking plate and stable on the ground. If the trailer should unexpectedly fall back to the ground, the flat tire will be there to keep the worst from happening.
Also recommend replacing the horrible factory-supplied acorn lug nuts for solid versions on the trailer.

RFraer

Depending on where you are changing the tire and how high you can lift the the TAB400 it can be difficult to get the tire off and on the lugs and in and out of the wheel well. I have found that in most circumstances it easier to remove the fender flair for better access.

falcon1970

@Slackers
Upon reflection I think you are correct.  Best to leave the lug nuts loose but still attached until you have the trailer jacked to the height you need.

DukeHewett

Our 2015 T@B has a different size nut holding spare up than the rim lug nuts.  Rather than carry a tray full of sockets, we bought a double ended socket with ¾" on one end and 13/16 on the other end.   Inset a ½" square drive with an extension and you can perform both tasks.  While some of the owner/use impact
guns (rattle guns) may be safe, I would never let a tire shop tighten the lug nuts with a powerful impact gun.   They should run them up and then confirm torque with a hand torque wrench (take it from one who had a lug nut broken off on my F-1F-150)

Mickerly

We put lug locks on the two wheels which freed up two lug nuts to use on the spare. Now, I'm all 19mm / 3/4in.

BrianZ

We had a flat on our 5 y/o T@B during a recent camping trip - see here..
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/188151/#Comment_188151

One surprise was that with a flat tire there was not enough room underneath to fit the jack.  So be prepared with a block or board to drive onto for lift to get the jack underneath.  I would only feel safe changing a tire while still hitched, unless perfectly level in a safe spot & not on the side of a road.  Remaining hitched gives you a big safety margin, IMO.

I used our vehicle's scissor jack, and while I thought it wasn't the easiest to crank with its compact crank handle, it has a hook & eye connection to the jack that allows using the handle at any angle to the jack.  This was a an advantage in a tight space like we had on the passenger side between the stair step and the tire.  (I would have jacked from behind the tire, but the steel jacking plate only extends towards the front and not at the rear.) 

I now carry another scissor jack that has a socket wrench drive for easier use.  I also carry a long torque wrench (which is limited to a 90-degree attachment) that can be used with it, but also carry a socket wrench with flexible head and a handle that fits inside a long steel bar for extra leverage.

I do use that torque wrench to check T@B & TV lug nuts before each trip.
PS:  We went too long before getting new tires.  Tread was fine, but sidewalls were showing signs of deterioration.  3 or 4 years may be the limit, depending on storage conditions.

AnOldUR

DukeHewett said:

Our 2015 T@B has a different size nut holding spare up than the rim lug nuts.

Had first flat a few weeks ago. Never practiced, but thought I had the skills and tools to make the change. Went to the back of the T@B with my socket wrench only to discover I was mistaken. Thankfully had a large adjustable wrench in the Jeep's toolbox.