Renogy Inverter Install

elbolillo

I am finished with phase one of my inverter install.  I have the Inverter mounted along with a GoPower TS-30 transfer switch. Now onto the more challenging part, running the 1 AWG wire from the inverter to the batteries in the tub.

AnOldUR

Looks good!

elbolillo

Here is a photo of my penetrations for the inverter to battery wires. I wasn’t able to bend the red wire going through the closer hole so I had to drill another to give enough room for the bend. Not a lot of flex in the 1 AWG wire.

AnOldUR

@elbolillo can you share pictures of how you routed the wire under the trailer?

elbolillo

Here is my under trailer wire routing.

Horigan

Are you going to add a fuse at the battery?  I know the manual only recommends that for solar wires, which surprises me, but I would consider one given how long the positive wire run is and where it's routed.

elbolillo

Horigan said:

Are you going to add a fuse at the battery?  I know the manual only recommends that for solar wires, which surprises me, but I would consider one given how long the positive wire run is and where it's routed.

Absolutely. I will be installing an ANL fuse. 

MarkAl

How many amps do you expect to pull from the batteries for the inverter? I didn't see the capacity. For 1AWG I'd expect some heavy current.

elbolillo

MarkAl said:

How many amps do you expect to pull from the batteries for the inverter? I didn't see the capacity. For 1AWG I'd expect some heavy current.

I have a Renogy 2000w converter with 200ah of Battleborn Lithium batteries. Wanted to just have the option of occasional use of 110v without having to break out the generator.

AnOldUR

elbolillo said:

... Wanted to just have the option of occasional use of 110v without having to break out the generator.

In a pinch, it will easily run your Air8, but not for long.

elbolillo

AnOldUR said:

elbolillo said:

... Wanted to just have the option of occasional use of 110v without having to break out the generator.

In a pinch, it will easily run your Air8, but not for long.

😂 We have only ever used the Air8 once, while connected to shore power. Not really concerned about being able to use the air.

Finally got everything connected today. The system works great. With the transfer switch all of my outlets are available for use. Did a test run of our espresso machine and it worked great!!!

Looking to do more testing this week to see what kind of performance we will get from the batteries while using the inverter. 

Denny16

Mark, AWG 0 (no 1 is actually a one 0 or 0 cable) hookup wire is the correct size cable for a 2000 watt inverter with a long cable run to the battery, and is the recommended size by Renogy.  If the inverter is located close to the battery and the run is less than a couple of feet, you can use a No.2 AWG cable, as long as you do not not exceed a 1600 watt load.  The 0 cable size. (rated for 170 amps) is correct, based on the current max load from the inverter, in this case is 2000 watts, which is 166 amps.
 Cheers 

elbolillo

Denny16 said:

Mark, AWG 0 (no 1 is actually a one 0 or 0 cable) hookup wire is the correct size cable for a 2000 watt inverter with a long cable run to the battery, and is the recommended size by Renogy.  If the inverter is located close to the battery and the run is less than a couple of feet, you can use a No.2 AWG cable, as long as you do not not exceed a 1600 watt load.  The 0 cable size. (rated for 170 amps) is correct, based on the current max load from the inverter, in this case is 2000 watts, which is 166 amps.
 Cheers 

I can tell you that 1 AWG is a beast to work with. Definitely put me to the test.

Denny16

Yes it is, I had to run 20+ feet of it through a boat bilge, through floor beams, from the battery bank, and into an electrical panel. 

Cheers 

elbolillo

Install complete. Inverter works like a champ. All 110v outlets are available for use along with the Alde and Air8. I have been testing the system with my Starlink connected to the outside outlet. Should give us plenty of flexibility for working remotely and for having emergency phone service in remote areas.

Denny16

@elbolillo, your install looks grand, the only potential issue I see, are the 1/0 battery cables going through the floor without any chafing protection.  The Azdel top panel and Greencore bottom panel of the floor have a thin, sharp edge against the cables going through the floor.  I would get some marine One-part polysulfide sealant/caulk and ply into around the wires where the go through the floor, keeping the cable centered.  This would also seal out dirt and water getting back in the trailer.  Do not use spray foam (used for house plumbing)as it will break down with the trailer movement flexing the joint.  Marine caulk, like, BoatLife, or 3M 4200 would work, as they flex when setup.
 Cheers 

elbolillo

Denny16 said:

@elbolillo, your install looks grand, the only potential issue I see, are the 1/0 battery cables going through the floor without any chafing protection.  The Azdel top panel and Greencore bottom panel of the floor have a thin, sharp edge against the cables going through the floor.  I would get some marine One-part polysulfide sealant/caulk and ply into around the wires where the go through the floor, keeping the cable centered.  This would also seal out dirt and water getting back in the trailer.  Do not use spray foam (used for house plumbing)as it will break down with the trailer movement flexing the joint.  Marine caulk, like, BoatLife, or 3M 4200 would work, as they flex when setup.
 Cheers 

Thanks for the heads up. Will definitely look into it. 

AnOldUR

The sealant mentioned by @Denny16 is something that I should do also. For chafing, I used black wire loom along with a plastic film canister (remember them) with the bottom cut out. Silicone sealing the canister into the hole keeps the foam floor insulation from breaking down. My thought was that the splash panel under the trailer would stop any direct water from coming up around the wire. Still, sealing is a good idea. Better safe than sorry.

 

Denny16

The splash panel under the trailer keeps most water out, but not fine dust from going down unpaved roads, it blows up on top of the bottom plastic panel and then using the trailer.  @AnOldUR, your wire loom and film canister should prevent the cables from chafing, so you are good there.  Adding the caulk will keep the wee critters (ants, insects 🕷) out along with any dust or dirt.
 Cheers