Alde Thoughts

bergger

Sorry to hear of your troubles.  We've not had any issues with our Alde but as I've mentioned in past threads I have a love hate relationship with the Alde.  I would much prefer a Truma Combi unit and told myself if our Alde every goes out I would try to replace it with a Truma.  I look forward to seeing what solution you come up with.  

WayneW

There are some interesting discussions on U.K. camping forums if you google Truma Combi vs Alde. Folks have a lot more experience with both and the discussions are quite informative. There seems to be no clear favorite among the ones I read. 

bergger

I'll have to check those forums out.  I have no experience with the Combi but I do own a Truma Vario heater that is in my truck and I really like it.  The CP control panel is easy to use and the night mode is very quiet.  I'm sure the Combi is very similar in performance.  

BillCB

Having only just bought our TAB 400, we haven't yet run the heating. I understand it takes a while to warm up. Is there any reason it can't be run while driving? For example, if you're going to set up camp at 6pm, can you stop for a minute at 5pm to turn the system on?

Maple_Geek

@BillCB this would imply that you are driving with propane turned on. I'm not sure I would be comfortable with that personally and there may be some laws against that (not sure). That said, I don't see why it could not be done mechanically.

pthomas745

The Alde works driving down the road just fine.  I've done it accidently a couple of times.  The trailer is not very air tight, however, so it is not the most efficient way to run it.

Whenever the discussion about "how long it takes to heat come up", it isn't like it takes several hours.  You can have hot water after just a few minutes on propane or electric.  Getting the rest of the trailer "warm" does take a bit longer, since the warm glycol has to travel around the trailer and warm up the hoses and convectors. 

Sharon_is_SAM

Pg 2 of the Alde 3020 manual

WARNING FIRE/EXPLOSION HAZARD VARNING

Do not use the LP Gas operation on the hydronic heating system while refueling or pumping gas.

AVERTISSMENT

Do not use any type of open flame when checking for gas leaks. WUsAe RgeNnuUinNe AGlde replacement parts only.

LP tanks must be filled by a qualified gas supplier only.

Use with LP Gas only.

Shut off the gas and the LP tank when the vehicle is in motion. This helps disable all gas appliances and pilot lights.

Gas appliances must never be operated while the vehicle is in motion.

swiftwave

I understand there are diverging views on the topic of running propane appliances while underway.  I make no exceptions:  My propane cylinders are always turned off when I’m towing.  Propane is an extremely high energy product, not to be taken lightly.

I do a lot of boondocking in northern Canada, so my trailer is often quite cold inside when I first arrive at a campsite.  My first task upon arrival is to turn on the propane, then turn on the Alde and the fridge.  Then, after I’ve lowered the stabilizers and set up my campsite, the inside of the trailer is usually well on its way to becoming comfortably warm.  Sometimes, if an extra initial burst of heat is desired, I will turn on a small portable 110 volt ceramic heater for a few minutes to take the chill off.  To conserve my T@B 400's onboard batteries, I plug this little heater into a portable lithium power station that I carry and charge inside my tow vehicle.  Just a few minutes of electric heat makes a big difference and will enable the Alde to maintain the accumulated warmth, rather than struggle to achieve the warmth on its own.

My Alde days are over though; I have recently installed a Suburban propane forced air furnace, ducted into the original air conditioning vents as well as a custom vent behind the bed.  My maiden voyage with this new heat source is soon approaching…

Citruscountytab400

I will be installing a Mr cool mini split since the Aldi and cool cat are so inefficient.  I also plan to go with a 10 gallon gas/electric water heater in the future.  I may leave the cool cat for a backup, but the Aldi is such a waste of space and too complex for long-term reliability.  Everything mechanically in the tab 400 is over engineered and more of a novelty compared with other rvs and their reliability using basic ac, heat, and water heaters.  The basic shell of the tab is okay, but the exterior plastic trip drives me crazy for a $50000 rv.

Binghi

So why did you buy it?

riseandshine

For anyone interested, the Truma Combi is not available in the U.S. for aftermarket or retail sale to the public - it's only available to authorized OEM manufacturers who make or repair RVs. I contacted Truma directly and they verified this. So the Truma Combi is off the table for most DIY folks, unless you want to source the unit and installation parts from overseas and forfeit any manufacturer warrantee and customer service. There have been some DIY folks online that successfully ordered the Combi from OEM sources in the U.S. and Canada, but Truma said this is not allowed by them.

Fortunately, there is a very similar alternative to the Truma Combi that looks nearly identical in specs, performance and price called the Aqua-Hot Gen 1 Propane. And unlike the Combi, Aqua-Hot makes this unit and all installation parts available to the DIY market through multiple retailers. The Gen 1 is relatively new, launched in 2022, but Aqua-Hot has made heating systems for years.

stepheng

Has anyone retrofitted this?

VonAustria

I have been impressed with how well the Alde system keeps the camper so nice and cozy warm. I love it but I have a real problem with NuCamp. As the manufacturer of the Tab trailers, it seems to me they have no desire to improve the installation to make flushing the system a much simpler process, a process that the owner could perform if that is his or her desire. The forum has been doing everything under the sun to develop and share their processes on their own to keep the corrosion issue at bay. 

Nucamp needs to step up and develop a fluid change process with specific instructions that are simple to follow and easily understood. 

I also don’t understand why the “ingredients” in the fluid are so secret. Automobiles manufactured today for the most part are equipped with aluminum radiators and they don't require the antifreeze be replaced every 2 years. Is it their concern that the special anti-corrosive ingredient is present in one or all the antifreezes developed for the automotive industry?
To me it’s sad that every NuCamp owner has to live with this nagging worry and expense to ensure the super efficient, quiet heating system will self destruct if not properly flushed properly every 2 years. A NuCamp dealer charged me $600+ to replace my fluid and it took them 5 hours to do it. NuCamp seems to be tone deaf to all the complaints and owner efforts to maintain the system themselves. 

Please develop and publish a well defined procedure with a list of parts (with part numbers) if needed that would be readily available from your dealers. 

Please, NuCamp, HELP!

GBL_citruscountyfl

I live full-time in my 2020 (built in 2019) 400, and besides for hating the complexity of the aldi, I use it all year, plus a month a year in -3 or lower temperatures with no issues.  I've never changed the fluid and just add when it evaporates from 24/7 use.  I do test the ph level and it hasn't changed from the new century fluid.  It's absolutely automotive antifreeze rebranded and sold at double the price, but its still only about 15-20 dollars a gallon when I buy the super concentrated bottle.

Maple_Geek

I have a 2022 TAB320 and I've only topped up the ALDE fluid. I've never replaced it. I monitor my fittings regularily and nothing seems to have changed. I'm sure my warranty is likely void by now but I don't see the need to do this fluid replacement, at least not at the frequency they recommend it. My TAB seems to have different fittings than the older one that corroded in the pictures I saw in this forum. If one day I have evidence that my approach was wrong, I will report it here for sure, but until then, I continue to camp stress free with the ALDE.

rfuss928

GBL_citruscountyfl said:

 It's absolutely automotive antifreeze rebranded and sold at double the price,

ABSOLUTELY NOT - Automotive antifreeze is extremely toxic.  Alde recommended fluid is not.  If any internal leaks develop the heat transfer fluid could mix with the fresh water and contaminate the entire system.

Grumpy_G

rfuss928 said:

GBL_citruscountyfl said:

 It's absolutely automotive antifreeze rebranded and sold at double the price,

ABSOLUTELY NOT - Automotive antifreeze is extremely toxic.  Alde recommended fluid is not.  If any internal leaks develop the heat transfer fluid could mix with the fresh water and contaminate the entire system.

Alde fluid *in the US* is not automotive antifreeze, in Europe it is indeed the same fluid as VW G12 coolant. Which might be part of why corrosion issues are common here. 

GBL_citruscountyfl

I full-time in my 2020 400, and never done the century fluid.  I add to it, maintain the hoses and fitting, and test the ph.  I've found the ph to be about 10.5 in the Aldi, and 10-10.5 in the new fluid.  I do, however take wheel bearings and tires seriously, and repack every year, and replace my Goodyear tires every two years/6k miles.