Tire changing

Bocfus

Best place to put a jack In order to change the tire if and when I get a flat. Also, what’s the best Jack to use?

Mobean

Lots of options for jacks.  I use bottle jack so I have room to place a jack stand on the same steel plate recommended for jack placement.  See this thread for jack placement details
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8314/jacking-points-on-tab-320-and-400#latest

tabiphile

A good quality floor jack is the safest and best jack to use to lift a trailer (or vehicle). 
Scissor and bottle jacks are not as well suited for these tasks and especially if the ground under it is even slightly off level. They tip over. 
If you choose to use one of these types of jacks, it would be wise to carry a one inch thick plywood base to put under them while you use them. Jack stands are another thing to have handy. 

RMo

Agree with the above.  We just carry a conversion socket so we can use our Highlander's jack and wrench.  It's worked fine the two times I've tried it.

Bocfus

How does the spare tire come off on a 2022 T@B 320 S . Not a boondock?

cottonmouth

Not sure if this is wise, but it worked for me. Please feel free to tell me this was unwise if you have an opinion. You won't hurt my feelings!

I was on fairly level ground. I unhitched, but left the chains attached to TV, and pulled forward slightly to clear hitch and set parking brake. I lowered the front of the Tab 400 all the way down and then lowered the back stabilizers until they just made contact with the ground. I then raised the front of the Tab until the wheels were off the ground. I lowered the front stabilizers to give it stability, and then changed the tire. It worked for me. 

cottonmouth

Oops. I just read some of the thread linked above. Others have used the three point lift safely. I did this with a 400 BDL and didn't need blocks. NuCamp does not recommend according to the thread.

Horigan

That method is only allowed on the 320, at least it used to be.  You risk breaking or deforming the rear stabilizers on a 400.

BrianZ

I like to consider myself well-prepared, but last year when our T@B had a blowout, I still had a bit of a surprise when our jack would not fit underneath.  It was a fairly compact scissor jack from our Sienna, but there just wasn't enough space between the ground and the jacking support bar under the T@B frame.
I recommend keeping one or two 2x8 pieces of lumber with you, and backup the flat tire onto that to get enough space to fit the jack underneath.
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/188151/#Comment_188151

EclipseChaser

For the 320 Boondock, I see nothing wrong with using the rear stabilizers and tongue method.  Safe enough as supported at three points.  I understand that it is not recommended, and if working at home would jack it.  I'm not carrying an extra jack for a just in case scenario.  It will work; and many have done it in the past.  I haven't heard of any horror stories resulting.  Perhaps you have one, but "not recommended" doesn't qualify.  Easy, quick, and no chance of the jack slipping on uneven terrain, which is highly likely in a tire change situation on the road.

bergger

This is the jack I carry for our 400.  It fits under the trailer in the proper location and it also fits fine in the exterior storage compartment.  And for a floor jack it is not too heavy at 20 lbs.  I also carry a few cut pieces of 2x6 in case they are needed.  

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-trolley-jack-64874.html

For changing a tire think about not just the proper jack but also how you are going to remove the lug nuts.  Typically the lug nuts on the T@bs are torqued 90-100 ft lbs.  Make sure you can get them off with whatever tools you carry.  Last year I ran into a situation where I could not budge the lug nuts on my truck, factory torque specs is 98 ft lbs.  I'm sure they were over torqued by the dealer.  Luckily I was at my house and not stuck out in the middle of now where.  It is possible that the trailer lugs could be over torqued as well or just very hard to remove for some.  Anyway, I picked up a Ryobi impact wrench kit on sale for $99 and now carry it in the truck at all times.  Makes it much easier to get the lugs off the vehicles and the trailer.  I also throw it in the car if taking that on a long road trip.  Cheap insurance in my opinion.  

EclipseChaser

Thanks for the good advice.  I would agree with the idea of perhaps wanting a proper jack for the substantially heavier T@B 400.  For the 320's I think that the rear stabilizers are fine for a tire change.  As for the subject of torquing by the dealers, the problem is that often times they don't "torque" them, they only tighten them.  And they often do so using an impact wrench at the same setting that they used to remove the lug nuts.  I have discovered the same problem with oil filter housings and drain plugs, which is why I now make the service managers write on the service order "hand torque only," and have them write in the torque specs that are designated by the manufacturer.  Once my free service with oil changes are finished on my vehicles, I don't allow a shop to do any of the work on my vehicle, especially oil changes.

For my T@B I also carry a breaker bar with a proper short extension (necessary for clearance from the side of the wheel if I recall)  and socket for removing them.  Takes little room or weight.  I do not rely upon the wrench supplied as I have had trouble removing them with that. 

TacoDr1ver

Check out the 400 Boondock jack by Seabiscuit Metal Designs

bergger

How does that work and I can't find that any where on their website.

WayneW

Here is another version of the same kind of jack. You place the notch under the axle and pull forward. The jack “ramps up” the axle as you pull forward. I’ve used these on straight axle trailers w leaf springs. I wonder how they would work on the Dexter torsion axle, what with all the warnings about never jacking on the axle itself. 

https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-EASY-LIFT-JACK-9-3/dp/B000FZ345S/ref=asc_df_B000FZ345S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312148125047&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12904947442894343697&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029626&hvtargid=pla-761644554952&psc=1&mcid=517ae25a632739eda09b6ecb7aa86f12&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrtyb9a7PhQMVPaRaBR3oTgzOEAQYAyABEgLlTfD_BwE

bergger

Yeah maybe not the best idea.  And I think it was not until the 2024 T@b 400 model year that the axle is exposed.  On our 2021 400 other years the axle is covered with the coroplast underbelly so that type of jack would not even work. 

ScottG

I can't see how this is any different than putting a jack under the axle. It may even be worse since it looks like the forces shift around as the device engages.

Mickerly

Dexter torque-flex axles are hollow tubes with the rubber suspension elements inside. You may find Dexter prohibits jacking by the axle tube. Be careful.