Renogy 100watt solar bundle

KyBawpaw

If anyone is interested the Renogy 100watt solar bundle on Amazon is back in stock. One 100watt panel mono crystl., 30amp controller and short cables. All for $169 and free shipping (if you have Prime). 

Tabster

I have zamp 120. Would like to add more. Are they compatible?

KyBawpaw

From all I seen by "experts" on YouTube vids, the answer is yes. They just need to be wired together properly with the proper connectors and correct polarity. The added current should not exceed your controller's limits. I think a 30 amp controller will allow me to add another 100 watt panel if I so desire. There is a formula for all that! Renogy staff are very helpful from what I hear and would answer your questions with more authority than me, lol. 

vito

Excuse my ignorance, but does a "controller" keep you from overcharging your on board battery? Also just curious why the cost is so low for what you have compared to the solar power set-ups from the Little Guys store. 

Nomad

vito - Yes, the controller regulates the flow to the battery and goes into different charge modes depending on where the battery charge is at.

KyBawpaw

You asked why the cost is so low? Dunno. I've noticed that solar power prices are all over the place for what is essentially is the same stuff. I remember in 1988 an IBM PC cost our school $2500.00. Floppy drive and 400mb hdd, 512k memory. My current smart phone is exponentially more powerful. A few years from now and solar will show the same advances I believe.  There was bit of a "tiff" on this board awhile back regarding solar price issues. Speaking of which, I must agree with some that Zamp is more expensive than some equal quality systems. I had to chuckle when I saw that my T@B had a  "Zamp ready" sticker on the tongue box.  "Zamp ready" just means I have their simple plug with two wires connected to the battery that they hope I'll match to their equipment instead of Brand X. BTW, Zamp is good quality. Study solar at manufactures web sites. And of course YouTube. Don't skip all the "Bubbas". A lot of those preppers know what they're talking about. They believe that their life depends on it so you can learn things from them even if you don't go to that extreme. Learn what's real and what's hype. Know the difference between mono and poly crystal structure in solar cells. I'm told mono is best but not by much. Also what controller you may need if you plan to expand. The proper AWG wire size for how far you'll set your panels from your camper, etc. There is an online calculator for that. Also read the Amazon Q & A columns where they sell solar panels. Most people expect small solar systems to do too much. You'd need thousands of watts, banks of batteries, inverters and lots of $$$ to take your house off grid. Just expect to keep your camper's battery charged up and you'll need a minimum of 85 watts to comfortably do that, so I've been told.  But remember to "buy the steak not the sizzle."    

Nomad

As KyBawpaw mentions, there's already a heated thread on solar pricing, let's not go there again please. 

Lisa33

The other thread wasn't heated.  I think I was misunderstood.  My point was only that there are less expensive options than Zamp, although Zamp does have its place.  I want everyone to see solar as affordable.  I couldn't afford to take the long trips I do without solar.

Lisa33

Oh, and the 100 Watt Renogy bundle is intended for permanent installation, which is a bit of a different animal than the Renogy suitcase or Zamp portable.  The 100w Renogy suitcase is about $250.  

KyBawpaw

Yep. I thought about it not being a suitcase model but it'll tote alright in a TV with room. Not sure it's classed as portable but it has portability,  

KyBawpaw

A comment about the 100 Watt Renology package. As I've studied solar more I've learned that not all controllers are created equal. The 30 amp one that came with the package is only "adequate" . It is made for them by another company and I found it on Amazon listed for $24.00. What makes a controller good is it's charge program that will do a short "hot" type charge to make the battery truly full. Also it's float charge voltage and several other parameters are important to having an efficient set up. If you read the specs of some of the controllers in the $50.00 or more range you will see this detailed in the text. My controller had no such info. I've queried Renogy about it and waiting a reply (holiday delay I'm sure). With the two 6 volt T-105 batteries (or equivalent), just a 100 watt panel and the proper controller, you could rock at boondocking with a T@B. So I'm told.

Joe

I use a 100 watt Renogy with the 30 amp charge controller and it works great.  I used it in Colorado last summer and a few times here in Texas.  See attached photo of the charge controller mounted on a bracket I made for the panel.  When traveling I slide it in the back of the pickup.

The photo shows the setup with a stand alone battery, but when I'm using the panel with the trailer I plug it into the Zamp outlet.

KyBawpaw

Yo Joe-  Mine is working too but I'm talking about optimization of settings. Renogy (http://www.renogy-store.com/30A-PWM-ViewStar-Solar-Charge-Controller-p/ctrl-pwm30-lcd-vs.htm) is selling a controller called View Star, $129.The one they sent us costs $24. Some controllers (not that one) have a specific toggles to use if you are using a single 12 deep cycle or two 6 volt golf batts such as the T-105s. It controls 4 Stage PWM charging (Bulk, Boost, Float, and Equalization),ect. I've learn that most solar users are not getting the most out of their systems. They are capable of more boondock time and power than we may be acquiring. From what I've seen I need to be using 10 AWG min and the controller should be mounted near the battery rather than with the solar panel. This website has been very enlightening :  https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2
"Making Off Grid RV Electrical Systems Work"

Joe

KyBawpaw -- Good links and good information.  

I suppose the $129 charge controller has more features than my low end controller, but the low end controller works fine for me.  The main function of a charge controller is to prevent over-charging and my controller does that just fine.

I use 10 gauge wiring and my cables from the controller to the battery are only about 10 feet long, which is pretty close, and is why I'm fine with the controller being mounted at the panel.  Other info -- I upgraded my battery from the 12V 65AH lead acid that came with the trailer to a 12V 100AH deep cycle AGM.  The battery change made a huge difference.  

This system may not be for everyone, but it works well for us and the way we camp.  It worked well when boondocking in Ouray, CO this summer for several days, and when boondocking here in Texas on a couple of trips this last year.   I use a Honda eu2000i generator for backup.

Nomad

I have the Zamp 120watt and the controller is mounted on the panel case. I've heard that it's better closer to the battery but even when I add my 20ft extension cable I don't notice any drop off or change in performace.

KyBawpaw

This solar thing has been a bit confusing. An online calculator says my 15 ft of AWG 12 wiring is more than adequate. My multimeter says I get almost full 22 volts out of the panel (full sun) at the end of the wires. Negligible drop from the reading at the controller. Much less than the acceptable 3% loss. I do like my set up having the controller at the panel. It's suspended on the underside by four mini bungees hooked thru holes already on the controller and the panel frame. Makes my 21" by 47" 1000 watt panel fairly portable. I'm planning on putting two T-105 6volt batts in the tongue box and mounting the panel vertically to the driver side of the T@B with some kind of lockable bracket set up that will allow for easy on and off placement. The thing is made to be on a roof so that should work out. I'm excited about cheaper traveling and boondock camping! 

Joe

Here is another photo of the 100 watt Renogy solar panel.

~ Joe

JustJohn

I just finished my solar installation yesterday. I mounted the charge controller inside the front box, wired the zamp plug to the PV terminal of the controller so l can use the plug to connect the panels and made two ten foot 10awg cables for flexibility in placing the panels. The system works better than I expected, so I may not need the second Renogy suitcase. I do need to upgrade my battery and that's next on my list.

KyBawpaw

What controller is that? Not the one I have from Renogy.

JustJohn

KyBawpaw said:

What controller is that? Not the one I have from Renogy.

The controller is a 20 watt Tracer MPPT, sold by Renogy, but I found it cheaper on Amazon. It can handle 250 watts of input according to it's specs but only 200 watts according to Renogy.

KyBawpaw

So you choose MPPT than PWM? I've understood PWM is best for single panel and smaller setups. MPPT more $$ too I think. Lots of variables, huh?
 :-D  Before I get a better controller I'll need to study it out some more I guess.

Jltab

What's the difference between monocrystalline and polycrystalline?

KyBawpaw

Mono is supposed to be more efficient in lower light but gives out more if partially covered our shaded. This link is good but maybe biased:
 http://energyinformative.org/best-solar-panel-monocrystalline-polycrystalline-thin-film/

Jltab

Thanks KyBawpaw

JustJohn

KyBawpaw said:

So you choose MPPT than PWM? I've understood PWM is best for single panel and smaller setups. MPPT more $$ too I think. Lots of variables, huh?
 :-D  Before I get a better controller I'll need to study it out some more I guess.

It is a bit confusing but as far as MPPT is concerned, it was meant for larger systems when it first came out but in the last 5 years the technology has improved and they now have MPPT controllers designed for smaller systems(like the Tracer). As much as I respect the expertise of Handy Bob much of his work was written in 2010 with the last revision in 2012 and does not take into account the  advancements in chip technology that has led to more efficient charge controllers and especially MPPT technology in the last 5 years. I do believe his wiring recommendations are spot on.

KyBawpaw

I was concerned with line loss but found that my AWG 12 @ 15ft is well within the acceptable less than 3 percent recommendation. As mentioned I read 22 volts open circuit start and end. 

Nomad

I had a hard time finding 10 gauge, twisted pair wire to make my extension cable - Turns out that landscaping wire is that and available at most Home Depots and Lowes by the foot.

KyBawpaw

I'm wondering why we gotta have heavy wire on everything then the foot of wire connecting  the battery from the Zamp plug is so much smaller than the cables going into it? Hmmm...

KyBawpaw

Yeah, I looked for paired 10 gauge then settled for paired 12 when the online solar calculator I found approved my set up at 16 gauge. A 15ft run from the controller mounted at the panel.

Nomad

KyBawpaw - Could be wrong but...Think it has to do with the length of run - Long from the panels, short from the plug.

mash2

The tracer allows addition of an MT-5 tracer meter that can be installed in the inside of the trailer, allowing readouts of the system (voltage and current, SOC and discharging accumulation).  I've been pleased with Tracer perfomance.