Renogy 100watt solar bundle

KyBawpaw

We T@B folk got it made! Gittin off topic,  the second time I was out I was able to get set up and comfortable in a short time. Visor XL, SOLAR and all. I watched all the running around the big rig folks do and thought how sweet, simple and blessed T@B life is. If I walk into my T@B and it's cold. Three mins and I'm comfortable. I don't have Alde but that Atwood works great! And I haven't seen a "good lookin" big rig yet. No Zombie appeal! Lol

KyBawpaw

PXLated, right you are. I betting that's the tech. Makes sense, bring the most to the post.

KyBawpaw

I use my multimeter. Requires some exercise to go out and read stuff though. Not like I can't use the exercise. Lol .The meter your talking about give a lot more info for sure.

JustJohn

mash2 said:

The tracer allows addition of an MT-5 tracer meter that can be installed in the inside of the trailer, allowing readouts of the system (voltage and current, SOC and discharging accumulation).  I've been pleased with Tracer perfomance.  

Mash, What is the wattage of your panels and have you made a battery change?

jkjenn

JustJohn said:

I just finished my solar installation yesterday. I mounted the charge controller inside the front box, wired the zamp plug to the PV terminal of the controller so l can use the plug to connect the panels and made two ten foot 10awg cables for flexibility in placing the panels. The system works better than I expected, so I may not need the second Renogy suitcase. I do need to upgrade my battery and that's next on my list.

That's a really nice install.

I had 2 of the Renogy 100 watt panels but they just took up too much room for me and were awfully heavy. I am hoping they come out with 100 watt semi flexible panels again, soon.

jcfaber1

Hi, Jenn.  this is what I came up with the flexible 100 watt panels.  It weighs only 20 lbs and measures 24 x 44 inches and fits nicely behind the rear seat of our JGC.  I have not weighed the frame but is very light.  I contacted Renogy regarding my install and they did not foresee a problem with my application of the flexible panel. 


Regarding the questions around the heavy gauge wire, the idea is to minimize voltage drop.  I too am a fan of hand bob's solar.  I used Southwire's voltage drop calculator.  My wire is 8 gauge and a length of 50 ft and have less than a 3% voltage drop.  I am also wiring them in series for 35V and a MPPT charge controller.

John

jcfaber1

Perhaps an illustration of the voltage drop will be helpful where I took the PV attributes from Renogy 100 watt solar suitcase:

Item		Attribute	With Drop	With out Drop
Cable Gauge Copper		12
Length of Run Ft		35
Amps output		5.71
PV Voltage		18.00
Voltage Drop from Southwire app		5.06%
Voltage Output		18.00	18.00	18.00
Drop %		5.06%
Drop in Voltage(V)		0.911	-0.911	-
Net Charging Voltage			17.09	18.00
Fully charged Battery			13.50	13.50
Charging Voltage			3.59	4.50
Percentage Drop of Charging Voltage				20%
I am not an engineer but this is how I understand the calculation with a loss of 20% charging capacity John

Ratkity

Nice-looking set up, John! The solar is cool too (j/k). Great job on the fold-away frame for the panels.

jkjenn

Thanks, John. I have the 50w on the tab with suction cups and hooks on the top 2 grommet so it has plenty of space to breathe. I am hoping  I might be able to get away with the same idea for the larger panels.

KyBawpaw

I'd love to see a pic of that.

KyBawpaw

I'm wondering about feasibility of mounting my panel here for travel? 

Nomad

Could a good jolt/bump crack the glass? One of the reasons I haul my panels in the TV, smoother ride.

KyBawpaw

My connections. All 12 gauge and the bungees keep it an inch off the back surface.

KyBawpaw

PXL, That's occurred to me. Thinking of adequate foam padding (peel and sick) on the entire under surface of the frame. I'm not sure what structure of the wall is to attach to either. Panel weighs 16 lbs. Brainstorming still.

Verna

KyBawpaw, when I came back from Arizona in late March, I encountered some of the roughest Interstates that I have ever been on. I-40 between Little Rock and West Memphis had more chuckholes than pavement. Stuff inside my teardrop that had never moved was on the other side of the teardrop. I also encountered some rough state roads in KY and IL. 

What I'm getting at is you never know what you're going to run into as far as pavement, or lack thereof. I was pleased I had chosen a suitcase solar panel for the protection it provided. 

When deciding what panel setup I was going to buy for my T@B, I knew that if it didn't come with a suitcase, I would be building a sturdy wooden suitcase with padding inside. I definitely have spent a lot of money on my solar setup and I don't want them damaged. 

I don't feel storing the panel behind the wheel on the side of tge T@B would be a hood location. Too many rocks on the roads, too many "tire gators" waiting to be flung up against any vehicle.  (Daddy had a tire gator pierce his gas tank on an Olds 88, so they're dangerous.)  If you have no other place to store it, cover it with a Harbor Freight moving blanket with bungies around it and store it on the sofa until you stop. Then if you won't be using it, just put it in the front seat until morning. 

KyBawpaw

Thanks Verna. I'll have the room onboard the TV were looking at and most likely go that way. I could pad it and bungee  it in the shower too. For some reason my imagination liked that bare area there. It could work facing towards the T@B with a PVC sheet on the frame side but I'm more concerned with the wall holding a 17-18 lb apendage and how to bolt it up on there. Idea looking dimmer all the time. :-d 
Thanks for the experience relayed. I do want to be cautious. 

jkjenn

KyBawpaw said:

I'd love to see a pic of that.

Ratkity

Exactly where Jenn has her suction cups is where I have the 100W semiflex panel upwards on the T@B (it's 2x as long, so it hangs more up towards to the top of the roof). It's just far enough from the pipe vent so that doesn't shadow the panel in full sun. I have it adhered using 3M automotive trim tape. I also used a bead of non-silicone adhesive all around the underside lip of the panel. I've taken it on some fairly rough gravel and rutted roads and it has done just great. I did *not* use the grommets because of Amazon reviews where one person had the grommets fail going down the road and the 3M tape was suggested.

I have a trimetric monitor on the battery before a negative ground shunt. Being a permanent mount, there are times when I am parked under the semi-sun or shade and the panel has been impeded, so there is many advantages to Jenn's idea and the suitcase idea to move your panels around with the direction of where you ended up parking rather than a permanent mount.

When I mounted a rigid glass 85W panel from usolar on the Reverse Teardrop, I made a cover out of pink insulation foam and covered it with fabric, glued it all together with Titebond glue and held it on with webbing straps and buckles while I traveled (the 85W panel was huge and it had to be a couple inches away from the skin of the TD for air flow). It was made to withstand larger than golf ball sized hail while stationary, but I didn't know about the velocity of a rock or the dreaded "road gator and friends". The cover tucked nicely behind the toolbox when off and parked. If on shore power, I didn't need to take the cover off. When parked for the winter, the cover stayed off and sat on the bed inside.

I think it'll take quite a bit to scratch the 100W semi-flexible panel, but this is the first time I've used this product. I will report back after next season (I just installed it a couple of trips ago). 

Nomad

I'd be a little leary of having the glass exposed without a cover on the front drivers side - Road rash from oncoming traffic. Been through two windshields in 6 months and am betting the windshield can withstand more than the solar panels. Both times it was on paved highways, not out on gravel.

KyBawpaw

Yeah. I'm looking for a new TV and will probably end up making it a home there. Brainstorming phase. I've benefited from all the experienced feedback. Thanks!  
(bold intended, lol)

Nomad

;-)

RZRBUG

I have about decided to get the 100W suitcase and pair it with a larger capacity battery.  I went out to the T@B to check the battery box to be sure it would accommodate the larger battery, and of course, it won't.  No problem, I'll just change out the box.  NOT.  The plastic battery box sits inside a fabricated holder made of metal and welded to the supports.  It is a very tight fit, so only batteries of the same size will fit.  I really did not want to change out the battery/LP cover, but that is the route I will have to go to get a larger battery in there, UNLESS I find someone with a welder to remove the old bracket and fabricate a new one.  GRRRRR!

Nomad

Discovered the same - Since there's plenty of vertical height I was thinking that maybe instead of messing with the current framing an insert could be made that fits a bigger battery. The new battery box would sit atop the current frame.

Verna

RZRBUG said:

I have about decided to get the 100W suitcase and pair it with a larger capacity battery.  I went out to the T@B to check the battery box to be sure it would accommodate the larger battery, and of course, it won't.  No problem, I'll just change out the box.  NOT.  The plastic battery box sits inside a fabricated holder made of metal and welded to the supports.  It is a very tight fit, so only batteries of the same size will fit.  I really did not want to change out the battery/LP cover, but that is the route I will have to go to get a larger battery in there, UNLESS I find someone with a welder to remove the old bracket and fabricate a new one.  GRRRRR!

Larry, I just had a welder do work on my front tub so two batteries will fit. For one battery, it will be much easier for a welder to make the larger holder. Welding doesn't cost a lot for a job like that. Since it's all metal, a "normal" welder can do the work. My new diamond plate tub required a welder who could weld aluminum, which is a bit more. 

Nomad

I'm thinking an insert could be made without taking the whole cover frame off - Just need dimensions for the fabricator/welder.

RZRBUG

PXLated said:

I'm thinking an insert could be made without taking the whole cover frame off - Just need dimensions for the fabricator/welder.

Hmmmmm.  That's a thought, except to make it even simpler I could cut a piece of treated lumber to fit inside the current frame then mount a new box to that.  No welder needed.  Now if Santa Claus will just leave some money in my stocking...

jkjenn

Ratkity said:

Exactly where Jenn has her suction cups is where I have the 100W semiflex panel upwards on the T@B (it's 2x as long, so it hangs more up towards to the top of the roof). It's just far enough from the pipe vent so that doesn't shadow the panel in full sun.

Part of the reason I like the suction cups is that if I am in the shade I can lay the panel on the ground. Not optimal, but it works. I will have to think how to mount 2 or what to do with 2 if Renogy comes back with the 100 watt flexible panels. I like @jcfaber1's set up but want something less permanent and with a smaller footprint. I don't want much, do I?

JustJohn

Verna said:

RZRBUG said:

I have about decided to get the 100W suitcase and pair it with a larger capacity battery.  I went out to the T@B to check the battery box to be sure it would accommodate the larger battery, and of course, it won't.  No problem, I'll just change out the box.  NOT.  The plastic battery box sits inside a fabricated holder made of metal and welded to the supports.  It is a very tight fit, so only batteries of the same size will fit.  I really did not want to change out the battery/LP cover, but that is the route I will have to go to get a larger battery in there, UNLESS I find someone with a welder to remove the old bracket and fabricate a new one.  GRRRRR!

Larry, I just had a welder do work on my front tub so two batteries will fit. For one battery, it will be much easier for a welder to make the larger holder. Welding doesn't cost a lot for a job like that. Since it's all metal, a "normal" welder can do the work. My new diamond plate tub required a welder who could weld aluminum, which is a bit more. 

Verna, Could you post a picture of the inside of your tub? I'd like to see how the two batteries were placed. If you have already posted the pics I missed it.

Verna

JustJohn said:

Verna, Could you post a picture of the inside of your tub? I'd like to see how the two batteries were placed. If you have already posted the pics I missed it.

John, I should be done placing the batteries and propane tank this afternoon or tomorrow (those things are heavy!).  I'll have some pictures. Matt, the welder, had to move the tub about 4" away from the front of the T@B to be able to fit the batteries and propane tank in. And it has to be installed in a specific order. I had bern waiting for a missing battery box strap, but just decided to go buy ratchet straps to use instead. They should be stronger. Pictures are coming soon

RZRBUG

Verna, how many total amp hours will the two batteries have?