2015 T@B 320 Outback no electrical heat

Parlando

I don't plug in often, but recently as it was our only choice we plugged in at a campground. The electrical heat did not work. All other electrical items did; lights and pump okay.  I noticed no heat coming on after quite awhile.  I switched to propane and heat immediately worked.  I check all fuses, including the two hidden glass fuses in the Alde itself.  I know how to use the heater and hot water thermostat and had it on the appropriate settings.  Any ideas?

Thanks - Parlando

Tabaz

You may want to check the contacts in the thermostat.  I'm guessing you have the old analog thermostat with the physical knobs and dials.  If the contacts are dirty, it may be the cause of the problem (a friend had the same issue with the same model year).  Also check that the 110V plug is secure in the outlet next to the Alde unit.  They have a tendency to slip out over time.

Parlando

Will do. Thank you and will let you know how it goes. 

MuttonChops

Tabaz said:
. . . check that the 110V plug is secure in the outlet next to the Alde unit.
       They have a tendency to slip out over time.

Since @Parlando seldom camps with 120VAC service my money is also on the
Alde Power Cord
having slipped out of the outlet.

Parlando

I checked the 110v plug next to the Alde and Is was secure. I’ll take a breather before I remove the four screws holding the analog thermostat. 

Parlando

I've removed the four screws that hold in the old analog thermostat with the physical knobs and dials. I also removed a couple of wire hangers to give me a very small amount of slack so that I can get some access to the thermostat. A couple of questions.  How do I remove the back cover of the thermostat? Pry it off with a flat screwdriver?  And then how do I check the contacts in the thermostat? That's a new one for me and any pointers would be appreciated.

Tabaz

That back cover snaps off (pics below).  Before doing anything, remove the blade fuse in the converter that controls the Alde.  This is important because you'll be using alcohol to clean the contacts.  Here is the process:
Remove the round temperature knob.  Then remove the black plastic spindle behind the knob. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry off the back cover (you can see from the photos that the cover snaps onto the green circuit board itself at three points).  Start at the rear where the wires come out of the cover.  There are three very small Phillips head screws holding the circuit board to the front cover.  Gently remove them (all these plastic parts are very brittle after all these years).  You now have visual and physical access to the slide controls (no need to remove anything else). Simply clean the contact points using rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab.  Do this several times to insure the contacts (top and bottom) are clean.  The photos below are not in any particular order, but should give you an overall view of what you'll be dealing with.  Hope this helps.

Parlando

Thank you Tabaz. I’m assuming that you removed the connecting wires from the converter?  I’m hoping to leave them connected if I can. Your description and photos are great and an amazing help. Thank you. 

Tabaz

No - just the blade fuse for the Alde.  If you want to be really safe, pull the 30 Amp blade fuse from the inline fuse holder near the battery in the propane tub.  This way there will be zero power to the entire trailer.  If this doesn't solve your original problem, someone once posted an electrical schematic of the T@B wiring.  This may show you which wires feed the running light function.  I have a hard copy and will post it here.  BTW, do a search for "Fuses for Newbies" for a detailed description of all the fuses in your trailer and their locations.

Tabaz

Fuses for Newbies:
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6381/fuse-finder#latest

Tabaz

Electrical Schematic:
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/q4/kuwppa7w77ab.pdf

Tabaz

Just noticed I responded to your "running light" post here. DOH!

Bayliss

@Parlando, although you confirmed that your power cord is secured in the outlet, did you also independently confirm power to that outlet?  Or check the circuit breaker to confirm it did not trip?

I ask, because propane for the Alde will work on 12V, as will the lights, fans, and water pump.  Having 12V power to control those items while troubleshooting a 110/120V AC electrical issue can trick you into thinking you have AC power.  It has for me in the past, which is why I disconnect the battery from the system when doing AC troubleshooting.

Parlando

Thank you again.  I’m off to work in our neighborhood garden but I’ll read over  this later today. I really appreciate all your advice!

Tabaz

Bayless brings up an important point.  ALL 110V outlets on the T@B are "downstream" from the GFI outlet located on the driver's side seat pedestal.  If it trips, all the outlets will not work.  There are two VERY tiny buttons in the center of that outlet, one is "Test" and the other "Reset."  Simply push the reset button to reactivate all the outlets.  To confirm that outlet is working, there is an even smaller green light on the bottom right hand corner of the outlet (impossible to see for anyone over 60 years of age).

Tabaz

After reviewing the excellent schematic referenced above, it appears the 110V outlets to the Alde and A/C unit are on separate circuits tied directly to circuit breakers within the convector box.  They are not "downstream" from the GFI outlet on the pedestal.  I've owned my T@B for nine years and amazed how little I know about it!  This is such a great forum.

ScottG

Yep. And the three-way fridge is also on a non-GFI circuit. If memory serves, the GFI protects the accessible outlets, under the bench, above the sink, and outside.

This is an example of good design on nuCamp's part--it's not always the case. A friend once consulted with me because the 3-way fridge in his (other brand) camper wasn't working. The problem traced back to a tripped GFI under the dinette.