TAB 360 Solar is Weak

Trailpixie

I've been tracking down my solar situation as it deals with the recall of Sunflare panels. I think I am caught up in that and am waiting for approval of my claim.

I've been researching a possible upgrade of my panels when I have them replaced. In my research, I have come to some conclusions, and I am curious of others agree with what my conclusions.

1) the configuration of long thin panels from front to back is cool looking, but not a good pattern for real life. The only time that the rear-facing panels get good exposure is either in the morning when the rear of the camper if faced east or in the evening when it is facing west. During morning and evening, the rooftop doesn't get good exposure. Good exposure on the roof starts around midday. At midday the rear portion of the panels are operating sub optimally and averaging the roof panels down.
2) The panels are wired in series. This can be good in optimal situations, but when a part of any panel is shaded, then all the panels behind them have their amperage reduced to the lower number of the shady area. This is somewhat offset by the increase in voltage of being in series, but there are some complexities that make this tradeoff problematic. If you had more individual panels wired in parallel or seres/parallel, this problem would be reduced. 
3) The panels installed don't seem to have bypass diodes. The purpose of bypass diodes is to reduce the effect of shade on panels wired in series.  These would reduce the impact of everything above.

It would be much better to have the two long-thin panels made into four panels. There should be two wired in series on the roof and two on the rear wired separately in series. Those two series-pairs should be then wired to the controller in parallel. 

The battery is insanely inaccessible. In order to access it you will need to remove the entire belly pan. To remove the belly pan you will need to remove all four jacks AND the axle. YES. The belly pan is above the axle and the mounts for the jacks. Otherwise you could cut a hole in the plastic and then somehow close it back up.

There isn't an LCD display in the camper to tell you what is happening with the battery and solar. You are required to look at your phone to see the status. I don't want to look at my phone when I am camping. I'd also like to add a Victron MPPT Control Display. 

I am afraid that with what I have, I won't be able to power my refrigerator with solar, particularly if I'm not in full sun. I'm looking at replacing the current panels  Many of the panels are about 40"- 45", so we can fit two of those on each side as well as squeezing a 50 or 100 watt panel between the back window and roof vent. I've been trying to find panels with bypass diodes that will fit to the left or right of the rear window and roof vent. We've got about 22 inches to the left and right of the window (actually exactly 24.5, but I wouldn't want to go all the way to the edge) and I can't find high-end panels that will fit in that width. I haven't seen any that will fit in that width that also have bypass diodes. 



  

elbolillo

In the long run you would be better off investing in a portable suitcase panel to help keep your battery topped off. An external port connected to its own MPPT charger would allow you to have an external panel that can be positioned for optimal solar charging.

As for having to look at your phone, I really don't see that as an issue. 

Sharon_is_SAM

I guess I’m  kind of surprised that more owners have not mounted regular solar panels.  They’re probably a risk with hail, but it seems like the output would be better than the flexible panels.

donmontalvo

I have come to terms with the challenges of curved solar panels. My 2024 320S BBC has 2x190W panels on its curved roof. My 100W flat portable panel kicks it's @$$ on sunny days. The 2x190W have the edge over my 100W flat panel on cloudy days.

 Can't fight the curve.