How do I get anti-freeze into the fresh water holding tank?

ChanW

That's what happened to me.

I thought I had drained them thoroughly, so I didn't put antifreeze through the black and gray tank drain-valves. Some water must have remained in the valve mechanism, because come spring, I had a hairline crack in the valve blade mechanism.

Nomad

The two times I winterized, after I'd poured some antifreeze into the holding tanks, I opened the valves very slightly and let some of the antifreeze get beyond behind the cap. Just have to remember that when you remove the cap you'll get some antifreeze draining out so be prepared to catch it in a bowl or something.

dundons

Sorry, but antifreeze is toxic and should not come in contact with fresh water lines or tank. Antifreeze is for drains and toilets.

Ratkity

dundons said:

Sorry, but antifreeze is toxic and should not come in contact with fresh water lines or tank. Antifreeze is for drains and toilets.

@dundons - The antifreeze in this thread is RV-type and is not ethylene glycol, just glycol and normally found in a pink color (not the fluorescent green). It's safe for fresh water tanks and the environment. Sorry if this long thread got confusing with automotive antifreeze. 

Mouseketab

I have a Dutchmen with the 5-gallon jug, and I also have a 1/3 gallon electric instant hot water plumbed in. I simply pour a gallon of the antifreeze in my tank, run it through both the sink and the instant hot water until it turns pink. Very quickly winterized.
In the spring, I run 10 gallons of fresh water, and a fifth of cheap vodka through both the pump and the instant hot water. Easy peasy. 5 minutes in the winter, 15 minutes in the spring.

GrandmasKid

I've read through this and still have a basic question. We're buying a 2017 Outback MaxS and have made reservations in parks out west to celebrate my wife putting up with me for 40 years. A few of the spots are in high country and it could dip  to below freezing at night even though it is late summer. Before we go to Sequoia and Yosemite we'll be in Death Valley where I'll want to take a shower. My questions are, if I have to winterize while traveling, can I do it with the hand pump, "blow out" plug, and a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze, while in the NPS sites? Do I need to have a compressor to "blow out" lines or can this be accomplished with the little hand pump? Any suggestions you can give this old man newbie will be greatly appreciated.

Verna

GrandmasKid said:

I've read through this and still have a basic question. We're buying a 2017 Outback MaxS and have made reservations in parks out west to celebrate my wife putting up with me for 40 years. A few of the spots are in high country and it could dip  to below freezing at night even though it is late summer. Before we go to Sequoia and Yosemite we'll be in Death Valley where I'll want to take a shower. My questions are, if I have to winterize while traveling, can I do it with the hand pump, "blow out" plug, and a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze, while in the NPS sites? Do I need to have a compressor to "blow out" lines or can this be accomplished with the little hand pump? Any suggestions you can give this old man newbie will be greatly appreciated.

If you have a simple tire compressor and the blow-out plug, you can blow the water out of the lines with no problem.

The question would be how long will night time temps be below 32*F? If just for a couple of hours, it may not be necessary (personal opinion and I'm sure others will chime in with their opinions). 

Nomad

I'm with Verna...27-32 for a couple hours isn't enough to hard freeze the lines. I've been dewinterized for about 18 months and camping in that type of weather with no problems.
Now if it was goig to be 27 degrees all night I'd think twice.

GrandmasKid

My best bet, based on average lows, is that I won't hard freeze. However, I want to be able to winterize while in camp if necessary. Would I have to have a compressor, or would I be able to accomplish winterizing with the little Camco hand pump shown in the LG winterizing instructions? I don't want to carry a compressor (or anything else) unless I need to. I'm so glad for this forum and really exited about getting our T@B. 

Nomad

I carry a little tire compressor/inflator (Slime brand at Walmart) that works just fine. Doesn't take much room. Just need to get something with enough psi.

Nomad

boo - Boondocking is different than "dry camping". A lot of campgrounds don't have hookups or at least not water, they're "dry". And even more don't have sewer.
If you always have hookups, you can keep the holding tank dry.

Tabaz

Grandmaskid - you'll probably be running the Alde heater to keep the cabin warm during the night. Most of the water lines are located in the cabin. The grey and black holding tanks are enclosed within the frame below the cabin floor. I've had several trips with lows in the upper 20's and low 30's. However, I've not had any trips with the entire night at those temperatures. You should be fine.

Verna

boo said:

I stand corrected.
On the other hand, I have never seen a campground without
a water supply.

There are many in Arizona. The campground I met PXLated at had absolutely no water, no showers and only vault toilets. I had to go to the nearest town to a pay "water kiosk" and paid to fill my four 4-gallon jugs (25 cents a gallon or 5 gallons for $1). There are many pay "water kiosks" out West. It's just something you get used to. 

JohnDanielsCPA

Hi all.  I am new to the forum; in the process of buying a Tab S.  But have had RVs for many years.  This forum has been very helpful in understanding how the Tab works, short-comings, strengths, etc. As for winterizing - first, don't put anti-freeze in the fresh water tank or your hot water tank (the Alde in this case).  It takes forever to get the taste out and it's not necessary.  The little bit of water that may be left (after thoroughly draining) will not be enough to cause any damage if it freezes.  It doesn't appear there is a winterizing hose included as standard equipment, so I would suggest paying the $12 to buy the winterizing kit mentioned by someone previously.  What I do - if there is a bypass in the Alde, turn that lever and completely drain the hot water tank.  Then get the air compressor adapter, hook it up to your city water inlet, open all valves (kitchen cold, shower cold, etc.), set your compressor at 45 pounds and let it run until only air is coming out of your spigots.  Then turn the handles to hot to flush out the hot lines.  Flush your toilet as well to get the water out.  Drain your fresh, grey and black tanks as well as possible.  They don't have to be completely drained; just make sure you have less than a gallon left in each.  Close your shower faucet, leave the kitchen faucet open.  From the winterizing kit, insert the hose into a gallon jug of the RV anti-freeze bottle.  Then turn your water pump on until anti-freeze comes out of your kitchen faucet.  Close faucet.  Flush your toilet until anti-freeze comes out.  Turn on your shower until anti-freeze comes out.  Pour a cup or two of the anti-freeze down the shower drain, the kitchen drain, then down the toilet leaving about a cup in your toilet bowl.  It is not necessary to drain your fresh, grey or black tanks as the little bit of water left will mix with the anti-freeze and should not cause any damage, but if it's easy to do, go ahead and drain them again.  You may need to have a few gallons of anti-freeze at your disposal to ensure you have enough to get through all your pipes.  Turn the water pump off before you run out if changing to a second gallon, then turn the pump back on.  That will prevent air from getting into your lines.  Not a huge deal, but I like to ensure I only have anti-freeze in my plumbing, not air.  That's about it.  Sorry if I may have missed something due to my unfamiliarity with the T@B, but the concept should be the same.  Also, if you all already know all this, sorry to be stating the obvious.  But from several of the prior posts, there seemed to be some confusion about this process.