Inverter Install

Tabaz

Here are some install photos for the 2000W inverter.  The diamond plate box was $130 from Kotula's (its actually a cooler) and is mounted with lag bolts on either side of the trailer frame to avoid drilling into it.  Drilled 3 3/4" holes in the bottom to run the #4 red and black wires to the battery and 12/3 outdoor cord into the cabin under the driver's side seat pedestal.  Installed a dedicated 20 amp 110v Inverter outlet in the pedestal and the surface mounted remote switch for the inverter (last photo).  At the same time, I also ran the cord from the shunt switch for the new battery monitor into the cabin (pics for that mod later).  The new diamond plate box looks good and has just enough clearance to still use the rubber latch on the factory propane tub.  It also has a latch that is lockable (hidden behind the wheel post).  Now the microwave can be fired-up for breakfast in the warmth and security of my T@B without having to go outside and brave the elements.

Tonydjd

Very clean and proffesional. Thanks for sharing pics.great job.

Ratkity

Outback, were you the one that took the jack handle off to use a drill bit? I never could get the screws off of the cover to take the handle off. 

Tabaz

Ratkity - I followed the lead of Dalehelman on this forum for that mod.  It is SOOOOO cool to use a drill to raise and lower the tongue wheel and stabilizer bars!  The U-shaped metal cover on the tongue wheel doesn't have screws.  There are two slits in the metal cover on either side.  Simply take a flat head screwdriver and pry them out (they'll snap back in place after your work if you're careful not to bend them out too far).  Here is Dale's original post:

http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1395/power-tongue-jack-cost-less-than-a-buck/p1

You'll need the following:

A stainless steel bolt to replace the existing shaft (common item available at any hardware store).

A high speed drill bit for drilling stainless steel (I forget what size - same as the pin you'll be removing from the existing shaft.  BTW, don't misplace it - you'll use it in your new bolt).

A table vise to hold the new bolt while you drill a hole in it for the pin.

Plastic/latex gloves for handling the greasy parts.

A hacksaw to cut the excess bolt length.

Some grease for the new bolt.

My bolt head is 3/4" - same as the lug nuts on my Outback.  Also, same size as the screw worm on the trailer leveler I bought from Verna.  In case my drill malfunctions, I can use any 3/4" wrench to raise or lower the tongue.

Side note - the downward forces on the leveler (can't remember its name) preclude using my 18V cordless drill.  Have to use the ratcheting wrench for that.

Hope this helps!  Love this mod!

jkjenn

Nice install!

Ratkity

Outback, nice mod! Too bad I have 4 screws in my cover. I'll have to drill them out. Perhaps they started adding those because people would lose the cover or clever people like you figured out how to make it better!

Tabaz

Ratkity - Yikes! Are you sure you need to drill out the screws? Do a Google search for "loosening stuck screws." Some helpful information there. BTW, my T@B is a 2016, so maybe your 2015 screw cap has been replaced with a cheaper slit cap like mine. Good luck - I really like this mod and hope you can "get r' done!"

Ratkity

Outback, only one screw came out (phillips). The others started to strip. I have drill bits to back out broken screws. Almost seems as if someone put loctite on them!