Break-In period for new GM Trucks

Michigan_Mike

Okay, I have heard many scenarios over the years and wanted to clarify this via my 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 owner's manual.  There is a break-in period that they suggest you follow and it is shown below.   I don't plan to do anything special here, have owned new vehicles in the past and believe that the newer vehicles are built tough, the engines are nearly a balanced/blue printed design and I drive my vehicles as I always would, right out of the starting gate.  And as a qualifier I DO use Mobil 1 synthetic oil and have been doing so for well over 20 years without any mechanical problems or defects and without any issues.   I believe that if you are unsure of your vehicle's break-in period it would behoove you to speak to your dealer and get their input and information for peace of mind.   

My neighbor is a retired engineer from the GM engine plant up in Flint and told me yesterday that there were no specific recommendations given for breaking the engines in as they do test them 365 days a year at the GM proving grounds in Milford, Mi and beat the engines hard to better build and design the engines.   I've had discussions with my son in law too as he worked at the proving grounds and he is familiar with their test track and over 50 mile circuit at the GM facility.  I have never babied my engines and believe that the new truck engine is as solid as a rock.  I did read the trailer tow requirements and it basically refers back to page 280 or the 500 mile/805 km recommendation......  Carry on!   

Here is page 280 from my 2016 Owner's Manual as follows:

jkjenn

@Michigan_Mike I got a check engine error message when towing within the firth 500 miles. I don't think I hurt anything and the dealer couldn't figure out why the light came on, so I deducted it was due to this. It has not come on, again, since. I tend to agree with you about the manufacturers over-abundance of caution in this category. I was also led to believe that for my vehicle ( 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee) that the breaking in period included some machine learning technology because it has an "eco" mode for better fuel efficiency.

Verna

Truthfully, this break-in period hasn't changed for decades. This is the way Daddy broke in his cars for as long as I remember and how he taught we 4 kids to break in our new vehicles. 

My last GM vehicle, a 2004 GMC Canyon, had 167,000 miles on her when the transmission started going out. I drive too many miles to take a chance on a rebuilt tranny (she's long traded, so my opinion is the one that counted), so I traded her. But, I had used Mobile One synthetic oil in her and I never had an engine problem. Pretty good for a 5 cylinder ( yes, in 2004 they made a 5 cylinder ).  It seemed to be planned obsolescence, because little things had been going wrong for a couple of weeks--new thermostat, new headlight and tail light and something else.  

I was hesitant about towing with my new Toyota Tacoma 16 months ago, but by the time I left home, there was 700 miles on her (over 300 when I got her).  So, I figured I was good to go for wintering in AZ.  If truth were to be known, I can't keep a constant speed on the highway if you pay me!  So, no worries about keeping a constant speed. 

Toyota loves to have the oil changed and tires rotated every 5,000 miles. They use their own synthetic oil and that's OK since they will be changing my oil for me for the foreseeable future. I have one more free oil change and then I have to start paying for it. 

So, Mike, take care of it and you'll still be towing well past the 150,000 mile mark. 

Photomom

On new vehicles Toyota checks fluids and rotates tires every 5000 miles, but only changes the oil (synthetic) every 10000.  

wizard1880

I find it odd that GM recommends against downshifting to slow down speed.  A variation of this is precisely what you WANT to do in order to help the piston rings seat in a new engine.  Basically, with a fully warmed up engine you bring the RPM's (gently) up to mid-upper range (3600 RPM i suppose) in a lower gear, then release the throttle and let the engine slow the vehicle back to idle (keep it in gear).  I'll do it a dozen or so times (and not necessarily in one session).  It's most important in the first 200-300 miles.  Perhaps the warning is more to protect the transmission against abrupt shock in downshifts?

I'll admit this procedure is not quite as important as years past, but IMO if you want to keep your engine 200-300K miles or beyond, and keep from having to add a quart of oil every 500 miles, this is vital.

My previous tow vehicle now has 203K miles on it, and still doesn't burn any oil at all.  It's towed large trailers and our T@B for several thousand miles of its life, despite the fact it's not designed to tow at all.  It gets oil changes every 10K miles, along with oil samples to keep an eye on any trouble spots.  Of course being a diesel doesn't hurt either.

Verna

Under their new vehicle 25,000 mile free guarantee, Toyota does change the synthetic oil and rotate the tires, I haven't paid for anything except an alignment.  This is what I was told by the salesman and this is what I have done.  If this is a deal with my particular dealer, then I love them even more. They treated me very kindly when I was a telephone installer working at their business as needed, and they treat me kindly now. 

And yes, after 25,000 miles, I will be paying for that synthetic oil change and tire rotation (23,000+ miles on her now, 16,600 of that have been towing). I don't think that is too high of a cost to pay to keep her running well. I used to have the Mobile One changed every 6000 to 8000 miles on the Canyon. I drove a lot of miles with it (167,000 miles in 8 years), and I'm obviously driving a lot of miles now. 

I have a 1989 John Deere riding mower that I change the oil on it two times a season, but not with synthetic. Knock on wood....it runs well and cuts 1/2 acre every week, sometimes twice a week in the spring.  Obviously, I feel it's important to have clean oil. 

Ratkity

On my 2015 GMC Canyon, the dealer will change the oil and filter when the ECM gives the info that there's less than 20% "oil life" left on the truck information screen. It is not just determined by mileage, but by how you drive (if I were a programmer, I'd base it on mpg - that can indicate city driving and then do a conditional programming code if the "tow" button has been depressed for any length of time while driving - providing you have the factory tow pkg like I do). 

At a little over 4k miles on my new truck, I had a couple recall issues to get taken care of and asked to get the oil changed early. The tech looked at the mileage first and said while 5000 miles has been the old rule of them (I rem when it was 3500 miles) they now use the percentage of oil life left (truck specs says best performance will be with synthetic oil). I was at 12% oil life at the time and straight math calculations on the given odometer mileage didn't add up to 5k miles.

Like Verna, I've always been told by my Dad that no matter how you treat your vehicles, they'll last longer if you stick with one oil type (no mixing types or brands - usually manufacturer recommended or better) and change the oil and filter regularly. 

Verna - 5 cyl GMC?! Wow. I was still driving a 94 Silverado at the time. Kept that truck for 13 yrs. Only downgraded from a pickup to little suv because of new safety features (airbags), I was camperless, gas prices were soaring and there was an electrical gremlin in that truck that I couldn't find to save my life. I still slightly regret getting rid of her. 

Ratkity

Mike, I towed the camper before 500 miles with my new truck (has same break-in period as yours and same warnings from what you've shared). Towed it empty to the house after camper purchase. The truck with the tow pkg has the bigger V6 with lower torque, the "tow button" to prevent shifting into overdrive to prevent excessive gear shifting on grades and is rated to tow 7000 lbs. The empty camper was less than 2000# and I drive conservatively as it is. My motorcycle high-performance engine had mileage requirements for break-in, but the main caution was keeping rpms low during that time. Keep the engine from working so hard, the rpms red-line no matter what gear I'm current in - speed isn't the focus, but how hard the engine is being pushed. Lugging (under-powering) the engine isn't recommended at all during break-in as well (Not a good thing to do to any small engine). 

I was taught to engine brake because it would keep brakes cool going up and down mountains and saved brake pads. It also never red-lined the rpms done properly. The problem with engine braking on any vehicle (especially my motorcycle) is that it negates the ABS system. It is spelled out in the Harley manual that while many people engine brake and it won't affect transmission if done properly, the ABS braking system will not engage if the back tire locks up. On a motorcycle, if you lock the rear wheel, you are going to fly like superman and kiss pavement (also called an "endo" on a bicycle if you lock the front brakes). While in your truck/car, engine braking for newer vehicles is not recommended for similar reason (there's probably a plethora of other issues to not manually engine brake in newer vehicles, but the ABS system is the only one I know about).

Michigan_Mike

jkjenn said:

@Michigan_Mike I got a check engine error message when towing within the firth 500 miles. I don't think I hurt anything and the dealer couldn't figure out why the light came on, so I deducted it was due to this. It has not come on, again, since. I tend to agree with you about the manufacturers over-abundance of caution in this category. I was also led to believe that for my vehicle ( 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee) that the breaking in period included some machine learning technology because it has an "eco" mode for better fuel efficiency.

I believe that most mechanical items are given a rating based on what the manufacturer deems are safe operating levels or tolerances that will safely maintain the mechanical durability/integrity of a part, engine, etc.   I'm certainly not opposed to ratings (good stuff to know) and normally operate within the given tolerances as I like to stay within safety ratings and do not stretch the limits as I like to take good care of my vehicles, gear and what have you.  

I do find the "mechanical learning" concept interesting and am amazed at the quality of my new truck and how far they have come from past years.  My brother has a Chevy Silverado (2002 I believe?) with well over 200K miles and his truck is solid as a rock, runs like a top and the only thing he's ever done is change the air filter(s), oil and brakes.  He likes my new truck, has been interested (and is tempted) in getting a new truck, but did mention he'd consider just replacing the engine as the suspension and components are solid and he could live with it for another 10-15 years.  Just goes to show that if you properly maintain your vehicle they will last a long time and serve you well.  

Can't wait to head out on the road with the T@B (to Colorado Springs) and and new truck in mid May and experience the good life!  I'm pumped up and energized for sure and ready to rock n' roll!