Can someone point me to a simplified explanation of the Alde panel? I've searched but can't find anything... the user manual they sent with it is horrible and the panel is not intuitive.
Ok - My standard settings are... Slider-1...Two bolts Slider-2...Flame (uses propane + electric if hooked up) Slider-3...Heat/Water or Water - Depends on what I need Dial...This is for heat - Set to your comfort level
Ok - My standard settings are... Slider-1...Two bolts Slider-2...Flame (uses propane + electric if hooked up) Slider-3...Heat/Water or Water - Depends on what I need Dial...This is for heat - Set to your comfort level
I'm hoping that someone somewhere created an illustrated "Alde for Dummies" guide complete with colorful arrows etc. explaining the alien symbols. For instance what is the difference between one bolt and three bolts on the first slider. I want to be able to hook up to shore power and know how to quickly put the settings to "hot water only."
Page 17 gives specific instructions
for the use of the analog panel. Same aspects can be a little confusing, but if you study it carefully it has all the info you need.
Thanks Scott - I've studied it a dozen times ... if I study it again I think I'm going to get put in a straight jacket. There are SO many dots that are not connected by this instruction sheet ... such as if all I want is hot water which electrical cartridge do I care about ... one? two? both of them? What happens if electrical cartridge is on 3 and LP is on?(edit: disregard)
OK lets simplify this along the lines of what @PXLated posted but using the "A, B, C..." guide below ... I pull into a camp site in the heat of summer with zero intentions of turning on the heater but I want hot water. Based on this guide what would my settings be?
Could be the same as my standard - for no heat but water, third slider on water only - dial set to nothing. There's also several discussions here somewhere on what the lightning bolt settings mean for us - As I recall, the top one is really for european electrical so two bolts or three are the same for us. All I know is my settings have worked great for me over 21 months :-)
It's all realy very simple actually. I have a digital in a box but have never gotten around to replacing the trusty old analog - Slide a few switches and your good to go :-)
I can understand most things but the Alde instructions are inscrutable.
What is needed are pictures: 1. This is how it should look completely off. 2. This is how it should look to heat water. a. on electric b. on propane 3. This is how it should look to heat both water and the cabin. a. on electric b. on propane
Who cares if the circulation pump is on and the electrical cartridge heats up first? What you want is hot water and/or a warm T@B.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
I'm not really sure why this little panel gives so many people fits--maybe it's the peculiar way the instructions are presented in the manual...
FWIW, here's how I approach operating the Alde (with help from Charlie Papazian):
SLIDER 1: If shore power is available, use this to turn on the electric heating elements. US and Canadian Aldes have two identical elements; you can turn on one (I), the other (II), or both (III). Turning on both heats things faster, but it will work no matter what you do. Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!
SLIDER 2: If shore power is not available, use this to turn on the propane burner. Relax, don't worry about the lightening bolts, have a homebrew!
SLIDER 3: Once you have selected your power source, use this to turn on the room heat and hot water, or just the hot water alone. Relax, don't worry about why there is not a "room heat only" setting, have a homebrew!
DIAL THINGY: If you've turned on the room heat, use this to adjust the temperature (just like the thermostatin your house). If you can still still find the homebrew, crack open another, kick back, and enjoy the warmth.
Now the digital panel, I think THAT would give me fits! :-)
Actually, I have the digital panel, and my very first trip I managed to get the heat on without reading the manual. The digital panel has a LOT more settings under the hood, haven't delved into those much yet.
I am going to create cheat sheets though, so DH can do it himself and so I can remember from trip to trip.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
I'm not really sure why this little panel gives so many people fits--maybe it's the peculiar way the instructions are presented in the manual...
FWIW, here's how I approach operating the Alde (with help from Charlie Papazian):
SLIDER 1: If shore power is available, use this to turn on the electric heating elements. US and Canadian Aldes have two identical elements; you can turn on one (I), the other (II), or both (III). Turning on both heats things faster, but it will work no matter what you do. Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!
SLIDER 2: If shore power is not available, use this to turn on the propane burner. Relax, don't worry about the lightening bolts, have a homebrew!
SLIDER 3: Once you have selected your power source, use this to turn on the room heat and hot water, or just the hot water alone. Relax, don't worry about why there is not a "room heat only" setting, have a homebrew!
DIAL THINGY: If you've turned on the room heat, use this to adjust the temperature (just like the thermostatin your house). If you can still still find the homebrew, crack open another, kick back, and enjoy the warmth.
Now the digital panel, I think THAT would give me fits! :-)
It's just not an intuitive design if you ask me and the instructions are worse. My wife read the German version of the instructions and understood it better than me but I think as Americans we are used to instructions that give the reasons behind the action ... ie: "Use heating element 1 when you need ..., use element 2 when you need ..., use both when you need ..." etc.
Yes I will have a homebrew please! I thought you'd never ask
Tommy, you're right about the silly one, two, three lightning bolts. One and two are equivalent functionally, ie with either setting, you get 900Watts.
The reason there are three settings is because this control panel is a holdover from the European version which controls a 220V Alde, which actually provides three different wattages.
The US version doesn't provide three wattages, only two, but they used the same controller.
That's why it's confusing re the silly lightning bolts...
Now, the little icons for heat and hot water, are impossible to see, for starters...
Chan - near Buffalo NY 2014 S Maxx 2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
...I think as Americans we are used to instructions that give the reasons behind the action ... ie: "Use heating element 1 when you need ..., use element 2 when you need ..., use both when you need ..." etc.
Ok, that's a good question, albeit a tougher one to answer. When I use the Alde, it's usually for a short time. If I have electric, I'll turn on both heating elements (III) for fastest response . The only reason I can see to turn on only one element (I or II) is if power were limited--for example, having only a 15 amp supply, or trying to run some other high wattage 120 volt appliance (like air conditioning or a microwave) at the same time.
As Chan said above, if you are only using one element, the one you choose is immaterial--they are identical in the US and Canada. In European Aldes, the second element is larger than the first, providing three truly different power levels. Back to the question, why they need three levels is unclear. Maybe the power infrastructure varies more over there. Maybe they are control freaks. Maybe it's to give the people who don't drink homebrew something else to twiddle with...
Here's a question - Since I rarely am hooked up, almost always run on propane, can I leave the first slider off?
Well what started all of this thread was the fact that we left the panel turned on when we got back from our trip three weeks ago and it drained our new battery down to 9.3 volts before I caught it. I'm still a little fuzzy which slider turns on the circulation pump but we left the first slider on 2 bolts, the second slider LP off, and the third slider on "water only" and the combination of those settings apparently drained us good.
PXL, have you tried it? Just curious because I seldom run on shore power also.
Can't speak for PXL, but I've done it many times. In fact, it never even occurred to me to turn on the electrical heating elements when there was no electricity to run them.
Well what started all of this thread was the fact that we left the panel turned on when we got back from our trip three weeks ago and it drained our new battery down to 9.3 volts before I caught it. I'm still a little fuzzy which slider turns on the circulation pump but we left the first slider on 2 bolts, the second slider LP off, and the third slider on "water only" and the combination of those settings apparently drained us good.
If you weren't plugged into shore power, the electrical elements were not running. I can't say for sure, but it's possible those settings left something on the 12 volt circuitry of the Alde running, and that could contribute to a slow drain on the battery. Regardless, I'm skeptical that the Alde was the sole source of your problem.
Note that even with the Alde completely off, there are several other gizmos (bathroom nightlight, stereo display, smoke and LP detectors, etc.) that will run down your battery to nothing. Do that few times and you will be shopping for a new battery. (Don't ask me how I know--ha ha.) The only solution to preventing this phantom drain is to disconnect your battery when the trailer is not in use.
If your third slider was on "hot water only" the circulator would not run. The "heat and hot water" setting activates the the circulator, which will then cycle on and off as needed based on your thermostat (dial) setting.
I formed a habit the first week I had the T@B and had a hookup - My figure it all out week. Just been doin what worked ever since on the "if it works, don't fix it" theory :-)
Comments
Analog
Slider-1...Two bolts
Slider-2...Flame (uses propane + electric if hooked up)
Slider-3...Heat/Water or Water - Depends on what I need
Dial...This is for heat - Set to your comfort level
That Help?
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
I'm hoping that someone somewhere created an illustrated "Alde for Dummies" guide complete with colorful arrows etc. explaining the alien symbols. For instance what is the difference between one bolt and three bolts on the first slider. I want to be able to hook up to shore power and know how to quickly put the settings to "hot water only."
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Page 17 gives specific instructions for the use of the analog panel. Same aspects can be a little confusing, but if you study it carefully it has all the info you need.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
OK lets simplify this along the lines of what @PXLated posted but using the "A, B, C..." guide below ... I pull into a camp site in the heat of summer with zero intentions of turning on the heater but I want hot water. Based on this guide what would my settings be?
There's also several discussions here somewhere on what the lightning bolt settings mean for us - As I recall, the top one is really for european electrical so two bolts or three are the same for us. All I know is my settings have worked great for me over 21 months :-)
I am at peace with the aliens...
I have a digital in a box but have never gotten around to replacing the trusty old analog - Slide a few switches and your good to go :-)
What is needed are pictures:
1. This is how it should look completely off.
2. This is how it should look to heat water.
a. on electric
b. on propane
3. This is how it should look to heat both water and the cabin.
a. on electric
b. on propane
Who cares if the circulation pump is on and the electrical cartridge heats up first? What you want is hot water and/or a warm T@B.
FWIW, here's how I approach operating the Alde (with help from Charlie Papazian):
SLIDER 1: If shore power is available, use this to turn on the electric heating elements. US and Canadian Aldes have two identical elements; you can turn on one (I), the other (II), or both (III). Turning on both heats things faster, but it will work no matter what you do. Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!
SLIDER 2: If shore power is not available, use this to turn on the propane burner. Relax, don't worry about the lightening bolts, have a homebrew!
SLIDER 3: Once you have selected your power source, use this to turn on the room heat and hot water, or just the hot water alone. Relax, don't worry about why there is not a "room heat only" setting, have a homebrew!
DIAL THINGY: If you've turned on the room heat, use this to adjust the temperature (just like the thermostat in your house). If you can still still find the homebrew, crack open another, kick back, and enjoy the warmth.
Now the digital panel, I think THAT would give me fits! :-)
I am going to create cheat sheets though, so DH can do it himself and so I can remember from trip to trip.
Yes I will have a homebrew please! I thought you'd never ask
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
The reason there are three settings is because this control panel is a holdover from the European version which controls a 220V Alde, which actually provides three different wattages.
The US version doesn't provide three wattages, only two, but they used the same controller.
That's why it's confusing re the silly lightning bolts...
Now, the little icons for heat and hot water, are impossible to see, for starters...
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
Sounds like bifocals or trifocals are in your future :-)
As Chan said above, if you are only using one element, the one you choose is immaterial--they are identical in the US and Canada. In European Aldes, the second element is larger than the first, providing three truly different power levels. Back to the question, why they need three levels is unclear. Maybe the power infrastructure varies more over there. Maybe they are control freaks. Maybe it's to give the people who don't drink homebrew something else to twiddle with...
The Alde's brain does require a little 12 volt power from your battery or converter, but that's a completely separate circuit that controls itself.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Well what started all of this thread was the fact that we left the panel turned on when we got back from our trip three weeks ago and it drained our new battery down to 9.3 volts before I caught it. I'm still a little fuzzy which slider turns on the circulation pump but we left the first slider on 2 bolts, the second slider LP off, and the third slider on "water only" and the combination of those settings apparently drained us good.
Note that even with the Alde completely off, there are several other gizmos (bathroom nightlight, stereo display, smoke and LP detectors, etc.) that will run down your battery to nothing. Do that few times and you will be shopping for a new battery. (Don't ask me how I know--ha ha.) The only solution to preventing this phantom drain is to disconnect your battery when the trailer is not in use.
If your third slider was on "hot water only" the circulator would not run. The "heat and hot water" setting activates the the circulator, which will then cycle on and off as needed based on your thermostat (dial) setting.