3 Way Norcold - No Ticking Igniter Troubleshooting

FuzzyYanni

3 Way Norcold 3163LGH26R - No Ticking Igniter Troubleshooting

Our 3-way doesn't work on propane, the igniter doesn't even make that ticking sound when you switch to propane at all.
I will need to troubleshoot, hopefully without removal from the back of our T@DA. (Update YUP - did NOT have to pull the fridge]
Tested this theory in our T@B (Where the 3 way fridge works perfectly and it does in-fact tick)  

Click here to listen to a properly working fridge and the "ticking Igniter" from our T@B 

I will also be cleaning the orifice burner while I am at it, and replacing the thermocouple. It works perfectly on AC and DC and the fridge is silent, I love this fridge.

Parts Ordered:  

Norcold Refrigerator Electrode with Wire 617966 $21.08

Norcold 621951 Burner-Orifice Assembly (Amazon) $35.78

Norcold 617983 RV Refrigerator Thermocouple $22.76

Total parts (including shipping)  $87

I downloaded the service manual which has a troubleshooting decision tree (I call it a logic diagram). 

It's been uploaded to this forum here: http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3878/norcold-removal-cleaning-pdf-files#latest

Went through the appropriate section and determined everything is working except the igniter. Disconnecting the igniter from the circuit as per the instructions reveals the circuit board is still ticking correctly when wire near a ground.

I found a bunch if pictures online showing how to remove the fridge from a Westy. Very cool

http://1705.net/archives/329

I believe the igniter must have a short or grounding itself out thus no ticking. So I will be replacing the igniter (or simply un-grounding it) and probably the thermocouple and burner orifice while I'm at it.

I will investigate more and report Back. Maybe I will do a video.

he 

 

Nomad

Good luck.

irvingj

…And there's that data plate that shows why one needs to be careful with the 12VDC (battery) setting; look at those amps compared with 120VAC!

FuzzyYanni

As far as I know, that's because when you drop voltage, amperage goes up to maintain the same power usage. It's pretty normal. 

Ratkity

The burner looks different than mine. I must have a slightly different setup (year - submodel). Best of luck for your frig adventure!! I know you'll do a great job. 

irvingj

Fuzzy-- yeah, that's what I was referring to. An 11.7-amp draw on a battery will suck it down in a hurry.

I learned that the hard way-- the 3-way Nor-Cold in our T@B was my first real experience with that type of fridge. You should have heard our converter/charger squeal when we finally plugged in, with a darned-near (if not) totally-discharged battery. Dark, in the rain, in a small campground in New Brunswick. Took quite a while before it quieted down so we could sleep. Now THAT was a learning experience! (After that, I ran it on propane over the road.)

FuzzyYanni

I've heard folks say they got 2-3 days out of their battery before the fridge killed it in 12V mode. How the heck is this possible?!?!?!?!?!?
Remember on 12V it runs at 100% power all the time, the temperature setting doesn't work! It's all or off. (scratches head)

Nomad

Fuzzy - Think I got same problem - New thermocouple didn't do it - Probably circuit board :-(

Verna

Groan....PXLated......

FuzzyYanni

Did you go through the tree diagram? Use the "will not light up" section, grab a voltmeter and start testing. It become s pretty obvious what's wrong if you use the tree diagram. Ping me if you need help.
yannisfyssas@gmail.com

FuzzyYanni

Quick troubleshooting vid and how the 'ticking' should sound:

https://goo.gl/photos/6LuHbX3YxLG7qwDr8

irvingj

PXL, that doesn't make sense, if my understanding is anywhere near correct… before, you got the "green light" indicating a flame presence (as long as you held the button in), right? I'm not sure what powers that little green light, but if it was on --flame present-- how did the pilot get lit if not for the ignition circuit? Isn't that what the clicking is? Could you/can you see a flame at all through the window there?

You're still at the servicing place, correct? Please keep us posted!

I'll just throw out one other thought, though it probably doesn't apply here: when the folks who bought our T@B were looking at it, I tried to get the fridge to run on propane. Same thing; green light would come on, but shut down within seconds of releasing the button. Tried several times, no go.  Took it home to get it ready for pick up (it had been on display a few miles away), and realized I had left Chan's bug-deterrent cover on! As soon as I removed that, the fridge worked just fine on propane. It just need that air in & out of the concentric intake/exhaust vent. Oops. One more lesson..doh!

Nomad

Agree, it makes the most sense that it's the thermocouple. It lights when you press the red button and you can see a good blue flame thru the little glass window so the ignighter is working and there is gas flow. Release button and out it goes. The thermocouple goes to the gas valve. The gas valve has two wires going to the circuit board. So, if the thermocouple is good, those are the only other two things in the chain.

Nomad

Thanks for all those offers of help - Gonna let the pros figure it out. Who knows, maybe the last guy plugged something in wrong. Will find out. Hopefully :-)

FuzzyYanni

Good luck PXLated... My troubleshooting will take a few more weeks (I'm not in a rush to rip apart the fridge at the moment). Currently watching youtube videos to understand the combination valve / thermocouple system and how it auto shuts off. Super geeky stuff...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxhKrSEDwE

jkjenn

Yanni, here s a good list for removing and reinstalling the fridge and it suggests connecting the chimney to the outside vent before reconnecting the chimney to the fridge. That might make it an easier process.

http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/norcold.html

FuzzyYanni

Thanks Jenn, I PDF'd it too! I called it "Don't Die" hehehe