I just got a Tab max S. I am wondering what types of brands or styles of back up cameras for hitching have been used. Also what about a camera on the back of the TAB for backing up in camp?
I was thinking something from Tadibrothers and a wireless model that can be mounted during the hitching process and the backing up process.. has anyone ever tried a license plate mounted wireless camera?
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I don't consider a hard-wired camera mod something most T@B owners will want to do. It's not easy unless you like to tinker and it's not simple and clean like wireless. Even standard wireless kits are not simple to do. For trials and tribulations see this thread: http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/4020/
I suggest you consider this no-hassle digital wireless option: http://quickvucams.com/
Two issues -- 1. Unit won't mount on the license plate due to plate light but HD Velcro or 3M Dual Lock will work fine on outer shell (camera doesn't need to be dead center). 2. Battery powered cameras are primarily designed for backing up. The recommended lithium AA batteries last up to one year but full-time rearview camera use will trim that down substantially.
M@bel M@y, my 2017 T@B Outback Max S (silver w/black trim), towed by Maude Myrtle, my 2016 Jeep Rubicon Hardrock.
The QuickVu ($259) camera mounts low and requires no 12v connection or wiring (battery operated). That's why they pitch it as "the first truly wireless system".
Pearl ($475) uses Wi-Fi + Bluetooth and requires a connection through your vehicle's diagnostic port (OBD-II). Pearl's focus is on backup safety with proximity alert and requires a smartphone as the monitor. Main problem though is their license plate mount won't work on most T@Bs.
Seattle, WA
I've considered Swift Hitch. Totally wireless and portable. ~$200
https://swifthitch.com/products/sh01-complete-system
Mabel is my great grandmother that I never knew. She took her 3 sons (ages 8-2) on an epic adventure from Alabama to Florida in the 1930's in the back of a pick up truck. I named my female English springer spaniel after my mother. Might as well go for broke with the brownie points in Heaven!
TV: 2018 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrew
David & Jill, Houston, TX
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
2016 Jeep Cherokee & 2017 T@B Outback
Mabel is my great grandmother that I never knew. She took her 3 sons (ages 8-2) on an epic adventure from Alabama to Florida in the 1930's in the back of a pick up truck. I named my female English springer spaniel after my mother. Might as well go for broke with the brownie points in Heaven!
TV: 2018 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrew
David & Jill, Houston, TX
Now that's an innovative idea that I would be totally interested in! Looking forward to solutions!
I have a similar model spotter. I often have problems with the communications link so I'm looking for a different technology
I have found the battery operated cameras have run times of only a few hours.
I am looking at units with a 12v power option so I can have a full time trailer rear view. That is really more important to me than the campgroud parking. I think it would be easy to access running light power to supply the camera and otherwise be "wireless". I would have to make a fixed mount to the T@B anyway because there is no steel for the magnetic mounts. For a full time camera it would need to be very weather proof also.
The Swift Hitch still has my attention. Small screen but otherwise looks pretty rugged and portable for other possible uses.
We've gotten by without for six seasons and many miles, but it's always fun to shop for more gadgets.
Have fun!
For full time rearview use you'll likely want a 12v connected camera (versus battery operated) with video either hardwired all the way to the monitor in the TV (a job in itself) or a video digital transmitter/receiver set that actually WORKS.
I'm fine with the <$100 non-digital wireless hodgepodge kit I located on Amazon (many options to choose from), but RF interference on a crowded interstate is annoying. Ditto driving under power lines. Choppy and intermittent image.
On backroads and two lane highways though it works just fine as shown below.
Mirror clip-on monitor stows in glove box. This is a 7" model but 5" would have been fine.
Receiver plugs into 12v receptacle on dash console. Transmitter is under the T@B couch.
Camera is barely noticeable where mounted and is .1 lux for some night vision.
If I were to consider a do-over I'd --
1. Locate a digital transmitter/receiver kit that works as it should with no RF interference.
2. Consider an adjustable mount camera on top of the license plate cubby hole lip (not underneath it). Possibly IR LEDs for true night vision.
Mabel is my great grandmother that I never knew. She took her 3 sons (ages 8-2) on an epic adventure from Alabama to Florida in the 1930's in the back of a pick up truck. I named my female English springer spaniel after my mother. Might as well go for broke with the brownie points in Heaven!
TV: 2018 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrew
David & Jill, Houston, TX
The plastic shell is plenty sturdy. You have to take a number of things apart to gain access from inside your T@B. All wires are easily accessible from there. You can tap into wires to the license plate light or running lights. I used the running lights as the transmitter is on the passenger side wall under the back couch. We always drive with headlights on anyway.
I suggest Posi-tap not quick splice connectors if you don't plan to solder and shrink wrap.
TadiBrothers has a dizzying array of options and upgrades available including a digital transmitter/receiver. I never got a clear answer if their standard wireless set was shielded to prevent RF interference.
One thing I noticed with our inexpensive clip-on monitor is brightness control is minimal and the video appears dim on bright sunny days.
Mabel is my great grandmother that I never knew. She took her 3 sons (ages 8-2) on an epic adventure from Alabama to Florida in the 1930's in the back of a pick up truck. I named my female English springer spaniel after my mother. Might as well go for broke with the brownie points in Heaven!
TV: 2018 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrew
David & Jill, Houston, TX
When you drill the hole into the shell it only needs to be about a 1/4" deep to gain access to the cavity between the shell and insulation and wood panel. Unless there is change in 2017 model there is a cubby hole under the couch on the passenger side that goes all the way back to the rear cavity with access to the running lights wires. You may need an electrical cable snake but I don't think you need to drill through the insulation or wood panel.
Yes, the small opening in far left side.
The black cable in the photo is my camera which connects to a transmitter (not shown).
Since I had the rear shell cavity exposed by removing the back shelf, board, and insulation, I tapped into the running light wires behind the insulation sheet. However, as you can see from the photo I could have tapped into the running light either side of the cubby hole. My running light power wires are green and white connected to the red/red running light.
An electrical cable snake should make it easy to pull your camera power cable into the cubby. Without that you may be able to push your camera cable through the hole you drill, then reach into the cubby to the right and fish for it just behind the insulation sheet that hangs vertically.