When your three-way fridge dies...

jkjenn

Does it make a sound in protest or does it just go silent? (Just kidding)

My 3 way is irreparable. The cooling unit is bad and you cannot replace just the cooling unit on these little things, per the dealer.

The replacement cost is about $1500. No thanks. That's pretty steep for a fridge that didn't make it 2 years with me and I would be getting a left-over since that model was discontinued. I have wondered if the new three way will fit in that same spot. I haven't totally ruled out the idea, yet.

I might not replace it, this year, since my new ARB arrived on Friday. I might consider replacing it with there lower power draw and lower cost 2 way find a way to put the ARB with a slide in that space. If I do that, I would be gaining a little storage and I think getting doors for that space would not cost a fortune.

The three way works great, until it doesn't. I hope the new model of three ways is less prone to problems than the old model was.

I will probably let the ideas rumble around until next spring and get buy with the ARB, this year. I sort of wish I had ordered the 50 qt, now, but it would be pretty spend your to ship it back. I could sell it and upgrade, too. 

Nomad

Bummer - Met a gal who's fridge went out in here Casita after 3 years and the replacement cost was in that same range. Evidently hers was a custom built model just for the Casita and took over three months to get the new one :-(

jkjenn

I tried to get it to Norcold Center last summer while it was covered by warranty, but I couldn't find one in Colorado that could fit me in before the warranty type was over. Norcold said they would give me a little leeway but not much. What good is the warranty when you can't get it serviced?

ericnliz

Good point Jenn. Seems to me once the problem was identified, Norcold should have gone from that date, not when someone was available to "fit you in". Pretty sad customer service. Hopefully the new model does better. I like the three way because it's really frugal on propane. Big reason we chose the S model over the CS S.

jkjenn

ericnliz said:

Good point Jenn. Seems to me once the problem was identified, Norcold should have gone from that date, not when someone was available to "fit you in". Pretty sad customer service. Hopefully the new model does better. I like the three way because it's really frugal on propane. Big reason we chose the S model over the CS S.

Agreed. It works great....until it doesn't.

Ratkity

Jenn, the ARB has a great feature which you might already know about. There are 3 settings as to how much power usage is going to be used to keep food cold (dependent on ambient temps, I'm sure). It's in the manual and settings are high, med and low for when the compressor comes one. I thought it was a very nice feature. I never got the wireless to work for more than 3 sec, but the the unit is so dependable and the front info panel and insulation make up for the cruddy wireless gizmo. Get out them spread sheets and see how it works. It might be a little longer than the Norcold in the spot, but there's a slide out you can use. I do what V does and keep it in my truck. Run a 12V cord to a battery or the 110V if I have power. It's a premium system. Let us know what you decide. 

Take the measurements and see what our woodworkers can figure out!! I have the 47L (37 qt). Good enuff for me.

Nomad

When I was having fridge problems, I heard nothing good about Norcold come out of the service peoples mouths. Every one of them hated them.

jkjenn

Ratkity said:

Jenn, the ARB has a great feature which you might already know about. There are 3 settings as to how much power usage is going to be used to keep food cold (dependent on ambient temps, I'm sure). It's in the manual and settings are high, med and low for when the compressor comes one. I thought it was a very nice feature. I never got the wireless to work for more than 3 sec, but the the unit is so dependable and the front info panel and insulation make up for the cruddy wireless gizmo. Get out them spread sheets and see how it works. It might be a little longer than the Norcold in the spot, but there's a slide out you can use. I do what V does and keep it in my truck. Run a 12V cord to a battery or the 110V if I have power. It's a premium system. Let us know what you decide. 

Take the measurements and see what our woodworkers can figure out!! I have the 47L (37 qt). Good enuff for me.

Thanks, @Ratkity- I didn't totally understand that part of the manual (battery) but now it makes more sense. I am trying it out here, at home and it is great. I also think I could probably fit more in it than I first thought.

From first glance, it looks like the current space in the T@b would be small (width-wise) for the 37 QT ARB. If I have the fridge out, at least I can use that space for storage this summer.  II might make it a priority to replace the base cabinet and move the freshwater tank outside so I can have a larger one, next year. I am going to let this all sit for a while and think through the different possibilities. I have also considered installing the lesser-power hogging 2 way fridge in that space.

Dalehelman

When you say it quit did you detect an  ammonia smell?

jkjenn

Dalehelman said:

When you say it quit did you detect an  ammonia smell?

None. It just stopped cooling.

Dalehelman

If there was no  ammonia smell look for a yellow powdery  residue. To you have neither then the closed cooling system is probably OK. I would remove the complete unit turn it up side down and  shake it. Sometimes  debris or air bubbles can stop the flow in the coils.

jkjenn

Dalehelman said:

If there was no  ammonia smell look for a yellow powdery  residue. To you have neither then the closed cooling system is probably OK. I would remove the complete unit turn it up side down and  shake it. Sometimes  debris or air bubbles can stop the flow in the coils.

They said they did that, at the dealer and even if that had worked it would only be a temporary fix.

Nomad

I think I'd try the upside down thing again - Talked to two people today that mentioned that and it had worked for them. The refrigeration unit is sealed I believe so if there's not smell or powder as Dalehelman mntioned you'd think it'd work.
If I understand what they were telling me is that liquid ammonia gets trapped up where it's supposed to be vaporized and needs to drain back down and clear that area.
At the dollars involved I'd sure try it again or get a second opinion.

jkjenn

 Agree. It can't hurt.

Dalehelman

I don't know about the units in our T@Bs but the larger ones have circuit boards that can malfunction and are replaceable.

Nomad

Dalehelman - Yep, I had to have mine replaced (reignighter board) but they can test for that. If you get a flame and it stays lit, It's usually not the thermocouple, valve or board.

jkjenn

I gave these guys a call. They operate an RV refrigeration repair and education center in KY. I will give you the short story. There are basically 2 RV fridge makers in the US: Norcold and Dometic, but if US law didn't prohibit a monopoly, Dometic would own Norcold, too. Dometic actually supplies Norcold with many parts. The only true RV fridge repair training is offered by these 2 companies, who of course would rather the consumer buy a new unit instead of repairing the old and so their limited training and phone support to RV repair techs is geared in this direction. If you live within driving distance of these guys or one of the folks they have trained, and ever have a fridge issue, I would recommend getting them to look at your fridge. If you know someone looking for a career - this seems like a decent way to go. The co-owner told me that many of the folks they have trained have had to ask to be taken off of their website because they are too busy and don't want even more customers.

The co-owner also told me that once these companies stop manufacturing the fridges, they generally stop making the parts for them, making it harder and harder to repair your fridge. She said in my case, she recommended replacement. She said that even if the cooling unit can be repaired, it would not be worth the cost because down the road I would be unable to get the parts I need. In terms of what I have read, flipping it will dislodge the blockage, but it is only temporary because the particles (from rust inhibitor) are still part in the ammonia.  The particles can be cause by unlevel parking or from operating in a poorly ventilated space. In my case, it could be either, since mine was delivered before they started installing the fridge fans and I was camping at some hot locations, prior to installing the fans, myself.

Nomad

I got roughly the same story except most of the complainin was about Norcold and they're lousy support. Most said Dometic was much easier to deal with.
What I find strange is all these ancient RV/campers that still have working fridges whereas some of these new ones are shot in a matter of a few years.
One guy I talked to today had replaced his with one meant for the trucking industry. Totally electric though. He did say those were alot cheaper than the ones geared for RVs.

Ratkity

Wow Jenn, just wow. In my unedu-macated opinion, I think the smaller frigs work so hard to keep the temps cold. I am looking affectionately at my ARB.

The new camper has one of the larger frig + separate freezers. It has the standard RV venting. I have learned so much here, that I now know how hot these puppies get and what to look for...

I read that many big land yachts go to full compressor house frigs (of course, they are the full-hookup type of "camper"). It's cheaper to replace a regular frig than one of the 3 ways. I'll let you know how this Dometic frig and freezer holds up.

jkjenn

Ratkity said:

Wow Jenn, just wow. In my unedu-macated opinion, I think the smaller frigs work so hard to keep the temps cold. I am looking affectionately at my ARB.

The new camper has one of the larger frig + separate freezers. It has the standard RV venting. I have learned so much here, that I now know how hot these puppies get and what to look for...

I read that many big land yachts go to full compressor house frigs (of course, they are the full-hookup type of "camper"). It's cheaper to replace a regular frig than one of the 3 ways. I'll let you know how this Dometic frig and freezer holds up.

I agree about small fridges working hard. 

Re: using home fridges, the company in KY indicated that it was a bad idea, in general for home fridges to be used in RVs because they are not built to handle the abuse that an RV takes and some times the parts are made of a softer metal.

jcfaber1

Jenn,I recommend you look at Vitrifrigo 12V fridge as a replacement.  They're made in Italy.  They are used in boating a lot.  Maybe there's a size that will work for you.  Sure Marine sells them for less than half the price of a new 3 way.  You already have the solar and batteries.  You almost never hear of problems with the 12v fridges, the others happen all the time on this forum.
John

Nomad

"happen all the time on this forum" - Hmmmm, I must have missed most of them. Can only recall 2-3.

Ratkity

Oh yeah @jkjenn! I heard the same thing about the big RV's and the home frigs. I wonder if the old time metal frigs of old would work.. nah, they used freon and probably aren't around around. 

The marine frig is interesting!! Those have to be able to withstand constant bouncing and off level.