Screw or Glue

mandt

We want to mount a few things inside the camper. Spice rack to the right of the stove and paper towel holder possibly above the door... so do we screw them in or use some kind of adhesive?

Thanks

Mickey

Ratkity

3M Command strips!!! Paper Towel holder never moved from above the door.

Sharon_is_SAM

Command strips or Velcro.  Screws/hooks for wood areas.

Photomom

Look for the Command brand picture hangers. They work great.

Tabaz

The interior walls are simply a thin veneer over high-density foam. Even with Command Strips, I would not put a lot of weight on them (especially while the trailer is in motion - lots of jarring).  Others have posted that the Command Strips actually started to pull the veneer away from the foam.

Photomom

The one wallpaper bubble I got was when I left weight on a command hook on a 100 degree day. I have several pieces of lightweight artwork and a fridge temperature monitor on picture hanging strips and have had no problems. The regular command hooks in the bathroom are fine too. I take the towels off when we're moving. 

wizard1880

**disregard this post-I had the wrong info--sorry!**

Don'tbe afraid to use metal screws to attach items inside your T@B.  Just be sure you've got it in the right place and that you won't change your mind on it in the future, and keep in mind it might affect resale value if a future owner decides they don't want your mod.

The interior / exterior of the T@B is a multi-layer aluminium / composite with foam inside.  Avoid running screws any deeper than 1/2" into the T@B's wall.  The floor is similar, but is thicker.  There's a thread here somewhere that describes the actual materials and exact thickness. 

Tabaz

Search "interior walls" for more threads on this topic.

TabberJohn

Command strip hangers will eventually pull away from the wallpaper substrate (bubble out) depending on how much items weigh, how long they are left hanging, and how high the temperature gets.
The same thing will happen with glued hangers.
Lightweight stuff shouldn't be a problem but anything else that will hang for a long time needs the hanger to be anchored within the wall.
I wonder what kind of staples are used on the Velcro strips for the side cushions? Seems like 1/2" staples that flare out would be ideal for permanently mounting some items. Or screws designed specifically for the type of wall structure in a T@B.
@wizard1800 -- What type of screws have you used?
Anyone tried using a stud finder to determine where the aluminum struts are? If so, is it possible to tap into a strut with the right type of short screw? Are the struts U-shaped or boxed?

wizard1880

**disregard post**

Theentire skin of the interior is aluminum, with the frame crossmembers.  Screws can go in anywhere, not just into the frame unless you're installing an overhead bookcase or something along those lines

I've used small self-tapping sheet metal screws.  The wider the better, so they get more area to grab onto.  There's been some discussion regarding galvanic corrosion in which type of screw material to use, and either stainless or Zinc coated are ideal.  Avoid brass!

TabberJohn

wizard1880 said:

The entire skin of the interior is aluminum, with the frame crossmembers.  Screws can go in anywhere, not just into the frame unless you're installing an overhead bookcase or something along those lines.

Is it easy to locate a crossmember strut to tap into? Would that handle a 10lb pull from the ceiling? I assume the skin alone can't do that.
Are there any photos or a time-lapse video of a T@B under construction that show the frame before/after skinning?

wizard1880

Maybe @Verna or another rep here should be able to provide some guidance here.  I know some who've been curious & helped in the past.

Sharon_is_SAM

Wizard, are you talking about a TaB?  The interior walls are a heavy vinyl coated paper on top of foam.  The TaB framing IS aluminum.  The exterior roof skin is very thin aluminum, foam then birch veneer.  and the sides are a composite (alufiber) with Azdel - polypropylene and fiberglass.   No aluminum interior skin.  Most would not recommend using screws in the walls or ceiling.  

Verna

@SAM is correct, @wizard1880. The interior walls of the Pleasant Valley/nüCamp RV T@B's are 1/8" composite material (no metal), 1 1/4" white styrofoam insulation and the the 1/8" fiberglass infused exterior on the side walls (except the Sofitel that has aluminum exterior on the side walls). The roof is constructed of the 1/8" faux wood interior, aluminum ribs spaced at regular intervals, with insulation between the ribs and then an aluminum roof. 

The sides have aluminum ribs along the factory made openings...door, windows, and are shipped from the supplier with these opening already cut. 

The easiest way way to see exactly where the roof aluminum ribs are on your T@B is to take a shower (or turn on the hot water for a minute or do) with the roof vent and windows closed) and the condensation will show up where there are no aluminum ribs. Would I drill into the ceiling?--nope. I would not want to compromise my roof. 

Would I use screws in my side walls?--nope, and I haven't. I use Command strips Velcro and hooks. Knock on wood, my T@B shaped key holder is still on the wall inside the door for almost two years. My spice rack did come off the wall on an extremely rough section of road in March. I'll replace the Velcro this weekend, along with a new spice rack. My State of Indiana scrollsaw art is still on the wall after a year. I love Command strip Velcro. 

Did I answer all questions?

TabberJohn

So 1/8" composite wall or 1/8" veneer ceiling + 1-1/4" Styrofoam + 1/8" fiberglass means the roof and walls are 1-1/2" thick.
We can forget about trying to anchor anything in Styrofoam.  
Those aluminum ribs must be pretty sturdy though. Are the ribs boxed shaped? Any pictures available?
Thanks for the condensation location tip.

mandt

Wow, when you ask a question on this forum you really get a detailed answer. Thanks everyone. I will stick and not screw. 

Sharon_is_SAM

TabberJohn, the ribs look to be box shaped - no side view.  Here are a couple pics from Verna and Mike.

Verna

Thanks, @SAM. I have terrible cell reception and I couldn't find a photo. 

Sharon_is_SAM

Welcome!

wizard1880

You're right, I was thinking about the floor.  I thought there was some aluminum on the sides too.  Maybe I was thinking outside.  Sorry for any confusion!

There are parts attached to the inside, like the cable TV splitter in the lower closet.  That sucker is screwed in TIGHT--perhaps it's going into the frame?  And of course all the shelving.

Ratkity

I was lucky and didn't have wallpaper in the T@Bitha. No peeling off of Command strips. Of course, nothing heavy was every left on them - especially when towing. Mostly for light things (keys, snarky signs, small clock and temp gauge, etc). 

Verna

The floor is similar to the roof. Aluminum square struts spaced at regular intervals, with Azdel (non-wood composite) on top of and on the bottom of the insulation. The Azdel was used beginning with the 2016 models, with 1/8" plywood used in the flooring in the prior years. There is no aluminum in the flooring except for the aluminum struts.

wizard1880

From 2015:

From Scott Hubble - about the floor construction:

"they used to be (vapor barrier, plywood, linoleum) when Dutchmen made them...

when we (Little Guy) took over, we made the sidewalls and floors with aluminum frames & shot block insulation

So the (floor) layers are (from the bottom up):  vapor barrier, 1/4" miranti or azdel, 1" aluminum framed floor with insulation/styro, 1/8" miranti or azdel and then linoleum. 

we are very close to moving to a new 100% composite floor"


Thanks for clearing this up @Verna.

That 1/8 azdel layer seems as strong as or stronger than sheet aluminum--Ive driven several into the floor under the benches to secure my dual battery system and all the hardware, and it is incredibly solid, tougher than wood for sure!

I don't believe nuCamp has ever used plywood in their wall or floor construction, and if so, good for them!  (Floor rot is a common concern with our competitors)

Verna

@wizard1880, thanks for the quote--I have limited cell service and I gave up trying to copy and paste the floor info. There's a photo from Cyclonic from last year's Tearstock showing me holding up a round section of the floor with the Azdel and insulation. 

TabberJohn

http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/4174/lg-floor-sample-photo

Estancio

FYI, I tried a stud finder without success. 

wizard1880

Aluminum is non-ferrous.  I'm not sure a studfinder will work.

TabberJohn

There are electronic stud finders (Zircon multi-scanners) that detect ferrous or non-ferrous metals.
Apparently a non-contact infrared thermometer might work too. 
Condensation method sounds good to me, but I haven't experimented with that yet.
It would be nice to know the thickness of the aluminum box wall you'll be drilling through. That will determine what type of screw would work best or whether an expanding anchor is required or perhaps even a rivet gun.

Tabaz

To see the wall thickness, remove the plastic grill covering the refrigerator vent next to the door. Any opening is framed with aluminum (Windows, door, frig vent, A/C vent, ceiling fan).  It's 1 1/2" if memory serves.