We took our T@B out for our first trip on Memorial Day weekend and had a blast camping. Our T@B is the CS-S Max model with the kitchen sink in the back. We were not able to get hot water from the kitchen sink faucet but the bathroom sink had hot water. There were a few instances when I felt a little warm water come out of the kitchen sink faucet then the water went cold the rest of the time. What were we doing wrong?
Chris and Alexis-- Roseville, California--2017 T@B CS-S--Toyota 4Runner
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2018 320S Outback
While searching through Google, I came across this interesting YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsiXaMEneaY . It addresses something I have never encountered, but which could easily happen if you use the shower (inside or out) and turn off the water flow at the shower head, but forget to also shut off the faucets. According to the video, this will result in you only having "lukewarm" water flow when you open another hot water faucet. I would think you would likely notice a small amount of water leaking from the shower head if you have left the faucets in the "on" position (and take it as a cue to turn off the faucets), but maybe not. I recall reading somewhere that shower heads in RVs have some sort of pressure relief in them that creates a slight drip of water when you close off water flow at the shower head. Out of curiosity, I think I will test/replicate what is described in the video to see what happens. (Copied from: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/113839#Comment_113839 )
I have not had the opportunity to test the above scenario, but you can easily eliminate it as the cause by confirming that both your inside and outside (if you have that option on your camper) water faucets are turned off. If you discover that one of them was left open, then I would suggest that you give the Alde time to heat the water in the hot water tank before concluding whether that solved the problem. (Greg)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Here are my questions/confusion regarding the above directions:
1. "Turn the knob anticlockwise to (+)" - - does this mean that you turn the knob all the way to the left as far as it goes, or to a particular point?
2. "Loosen the screw and move the knob out to the side" - - Do you merely loosen the screw, or remove it completely. I have seen conflicting instructions, with one saying loosen the screw, and another saying to remove the screw. I have also seen posts that warn against loosening the screw too much or you will have water filling the Alde compartment under the seat. FURTHER, the instruction states, "move the knob out to the side." What exactly does that mean? The wording infers either (a) that you "remove" the knob (and its screw) completely, OR (b) you are to pull the knob out toward you ("out to the side?") slightly (with the screw still attached, but loose), and possibly reengage the knob on the teeth located behind the knob?
3. "Then turn the knob clockwise to (-) without it being engaged" - - IF the knob is supposed to be removed, there is no knob to turn clockwise, UNLESS it is referring to what may also look like grooved ("teeth") below the outer knob. IF the knob is not removed (and the screw has merely been loosened), how far do you turn the knob toward (-)? Also, what does the instruction,"without it being engaged" mean.............what specifically is not "engaged"?
4. "Adjustments are carried out in small steps. A 1/4 turn corresponds to approximately 7˚C (44.6˚ F)" - - I assume this means that you turn the knob left toward the positive side, thus increasing the temperature approximately 45 degrees with each 1/4 turn. HOWEVER, is one to assume that you are starting from 0˚and increasing the temperature from that point, or are you starting from some higher temperature?
5. "Reinstall the knob and check that it engages with the teeth" - - Again, this tends to infer that you have previously removed the knob (and screw). However, I considered that maybe it just means that you have previously merely pulled the knob outward slightly (with the screw loosened, but still attached) and that before you re-tighten the screw, you need to make sure that the knob is properly seated (i.e., engaged) over the teeth that the knob is installed over.
6. "Tighten the screw and then turn the knob to max (+)" - - What confuses me with this portion of the instruction is that if you have already apparently adjusted the temperature (in 1/4 turn increments), and re-tightened the screw, what is the purpose of turning the knob to "max." Also, how far are you supposed to turn the knob in the direction of max (+)?
7. "Max calibration for increasing the temperature is a 1/2 turn" - - This instruction creates even more confusion, because it seems to conflict with the "1/4 turn" instruction. Additionally, in which direction are you supposed to be making the 1/2 turn, AND how much hotter will the temperature increase with that 1/2 turn? (The only thing I can figure to rectify the conflicting information is that essentially you can only make TWO 1/4 turns to get to the maximum allowed temperature.)
Maybe I am the only one confused by the above instructions (because others somehow seem to have figured it out), but as I say, the wording is extremely poor. Further, I reviewed the nüCamp video recently posted by Creed on this subject. He says nothing about loosening or re-tightening the screw, or removing and re-engaging the knob. He simply instructs the viewer to turn the knob to the left (i.e., "+" direction) in small increments until you reach the desired temperature. If that is all that needs to be done, then why do we need the above instruction.
As an aside, does anyone know the source of the document that includes the above instruction (the full version is included earlier in this thread)?
So...........any help in clarifying the above instruction, or an explanation as to what is supposedly being conveyed in this particular instruction is GREATLY appreciated. Sorry for the very long post, but hopefully the answers to my questions will be of assistance to others. Thanks! (Greg)
P.S. I know the mixing valve question comes up frequently. Maybe my questions should be broken off as a separate topic so they do not get lost under the current title for this thread?
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Slightly simpler instructions:
1. Turn the knob all they way to +, it's hottest setting. Yes, adjust it until it stops.
2. Loosen the screw on the knob, but not all the way. You want to loosen it just enough so you can pull the knob up off of the valve splines (so it disengages from the valve)
3. Turn the knob toward the -, about 1/4 turn.
4. Re-seat the knob onto the valve spline and tighten the screw.
5. Turn the knob all they way to +, until it stops.
Test your water and see if it fixes your temperature. If not, repeat the above. Hopefully this clarifies it a bit.
If anyone else wants to add to @ColoradoJon's very good summary, I am all ears. Thanks Jon!!
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
I don't know if it made a difference, but while adjusting the mixing valve, the water pump was off and I also did not have any municipal water pressure turned on. However, the water lines were pressurized and the Alde tank was full. I do not know if having the municipal water pressure turned on would have caused the valve to leak, but I doubt it. Frankly I could not see any way that it would leak.
I know @Sharon_is_SAM has the Alde 3010, and assume @ColoradoJon does as well, but I am not sure about @pthomas745. If you all have the 3010, maybe the lack of water spraying out when I removed the screw has to do with the difference in models.
I have included photos of the mixing valve with the knob removed so that others reviewing this can see the metal stop on the valve, the splines that the knob is seated on, and the corresponding tab/stop located inside the knob. When the tab/stop inside the knob hits the metal stop on the valve housing, it cannot turn any further, unless you remove the knob and re-position it on the splines beyond/past the metal stop. Regardless, I stuck with @ColoradoJon's instructions and reset the knob 1/4 turn back toward the negative. I then re-seated the knob on the splines and replaced/tightened the screw. I then turned the knob all the way back toward positive.
I cannot honestly recall, but I believe that I set the hot water (shower) icon to full/"boost" with the symbol completely filled/black. I then set the Alde to heat the water using LP gas only (electric off.) In a half hour, the temp was up to 149 degrees F, which is what would be anticipated based on how I believe I had set it. (The shaded symbol returned to half full, which is also consistent with what is expected when you temporarily set the hot water to boost.) Next time I go camping, I will confirm that the "normal" water temperature (half-darkened symbol) is at around 118-120 degrees. It should be, but I want to make sure.
Here are the photos...........................
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Do you mean the red pipe leading to the mixer valve is hot?
Is your Alde bypass valve open? That can allow cold water to enter the hot water supply after the mixing valve causing cooler water.
Do you mean the red pipe leading to the mixer valve is hot?
* Sorry, yes, the red pipe leading to the mixing valve. The white pipe on the other side of that valve is just warm.
"Is your Alde bypass valve open? That can allow cold water to enter the hot water supply after the mixing valve causing cooler water."
* Ahh! In my 2019, it's hiding under a radiant heat hose, and didn't know about it until tonight when I downloaded the 2016 Winterizing pdf. It was definitely on, tomorrow I'll try turning it off. Thanks!
https://youtu.be/-3OJxJdR34o