Solar newbie

sbhtennis

 I want to get a easy to use basic Solar system. I have a 2016 T@B  MAX S. I have seen the  terms Zamp and Renogy tossed around and presume they are 2 different types of solar systems. What are advantages/disadvantages of each.?  i have been told 100 watts is about right.  I currently am  camping in the PNW for long weekends. I don't want anything terribly heavy ( < 20 lbs maybe)  or complicated for starters. Thanks for advice

pthomas745

I have a Renogy 100 watt panel that I bought in 2013. Bought one of the packages from Amazon that included a simple charge controller.  I planned to use it for charging a 35Amp hour battery during car camping, and in case of emergency.  (Socal might have the quake any day now, you never know!)  This worked just fine.

It has also worked fine with my 2017 Outback and stock battery.  I originally went from the solar controller to the battery using alligator clips.  With great help from these forums, I learned how to plug it to the Zamp connector while learning all about the dreaded "Reverse Polarity."

After several trips, the combination works just fine with the T@b's electrical use.  I discovered that my laptop plugged into an  inverter was my largest energy user.  (The laptop runs about one amp an hour or more depending on the photograph editing I'm doing).  I purchased a 12v power supply for my laptop (which means it plugs into a "lighter" plug), and a 12v adapter for my old 35AH battery.  That little battery will power my laptop for at least 14 hours, I've discovered.  The 35AH battery fits into a battery box where I carry all the other solar tools.  I feel I've removed the biggest "energy hog" completely off the T@b's grid.  The 35AH battery has a small footprint on the T@b's floor, and those inverters can disappear.

Here is a photo of my solution to the Zamp wiring:  on this cable the "positive" wire is marked in white letters.  Note the white letter cable goes to the metal connector on the plug.  Zamp is concerned that sparking may occur if that metal part was "hot."  So, they flipped their plug: the "hot" side of the wire is now inside the plastic part of the plug.  I cut off the end of the cable ( called an SAE cable.)  I put a red piece of electrical tape on the unmarked wire of the cable, noting it as the new "hot" wire.  You can see the red wire is attached to my controller + and the black to -.  If  you trace out the wire marked in white letters, you can see the negative wire goes to the metal connector on the plug.

Plug it into the Zamp port, and power on.  You can also go directly to the battery using simple alligator clips, red/positive black/negative.

PS: I have cleaned up the appearance of these wires as to not offend my many DIY professionals.


PPS:  I always imagine this is what Zamp had in mind when they worried about sparking wires:

Oddjob and Bond fight

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDDjxa7RsKg

P.P.P.S  My setup is very simple, and would not have been possible without help from the users on this forum.  There are many examples of solar setups in the forums, from my stupid simple to the wonderfully thought out and well designed.

ScottG

I'll add that there will be compromises among simplicity, weight, and cost. With its waterproof controller and T@B-ready connectors, a Zamp 120W suitcase will be the simplest, but you will pay for it. A 100W Renogy suitcase would also fit the bill, but--as ptthomas745 indicated--would require some minor modification or futzing with battery clamps. In addition, any suitcase will likely exceed 20lbs. You could probably build something lighter from components, but, at least from a initial set-up perspective, it won't be as simple. 

TTTab

I have a solar question.  A Camp suitcase system 80 amps came with my used T@B.  Its the 80 Amps adequate to charge my battery and keep it at full charge?

pthomas745

@TTTab, yes, it will.  Might take a little longer, but it will.

Sharon_is_SAM

I think you will be disappointed with only 80 watts.  

ericnliz

@TTTab, I have tendency to agree with @SAM, however don't know what your usage would be either. My suggestion would be to try it out on a shorter trip (maybe 2 to 3 days), or even at home on battery only, and evaluate from there. If it works for you, great, if not, at least you tried before going a different direction.  

Sharon_is_SAM

80 watts is good for keeping your battery topped off while in storage.  Most people need a minimum of 100-120 watts for lights, pump, frig and phantom draw.  

ericnliz

@SAM, 'Ya gotta learn how to give those "phantoms" the boot!

Sharon_is_SAM

Yes.  That's what a battery cut off switch is good for...

(We love our large AGM battery.  No storage worries.)

ericnliz

  

atlasb

For what it is worth,  Harbor Freight has a 45 watt 3 panel 10 pc solar kit on sale now through 6/30 2017 (on the net) for $99.99 That is cheap considering and would give you a little boost.  Something to consider. 

ericnliz

@atlasb, For what it is worth, I went camping with some dear friends that had one of those, and it was his first time trying it out. Not a good solution for re-charging trailer batteries in a short time period. I ended up charging mine, then lending him my 100 watt Renogy panel so his battery didn't go dead. Not something I would personally recommend for the application.

LauraRey

The problem with estimating whether 80 W is enough is that we all live in different areas.  In Southern Ontario, where we have no guarantee of sunshine daily, it wouldn't be enough.  However, my intent is to upgrade the battery when it has to be replaced to a group 27 or two of the golf cart batteries.  I wanted my solar panels to match my future battery and geographical needs.  So, I went with 2  100-watt Renogy panels.  Even on an overcast day, they put out 1.5amps, which will help keep the battery charged.  On sunny days, it is overkill and I could get away with just one panel.