Replacing 7 way plug - trailer side

Marceline

I did something stupid and dragged my plug. Has anyone replaced the plug yourself with something like this? Was the process pretty idiot proof? What tools did you need to get the job done?

SweetlyHome

We've done it, twice.  Both times due to misadjusting the droop in the cable.  The connector is molded to the wire so you replace the wire and connector.  

It's a case of matching up wire colors in the connection box under the front storage box.  Hard part is you have to lay on your back and work above your head.  At least that's how I approached it. Sort of tight space within the box.

Screw driver to open the box and a nut driver or wrench for the terminal studs in the box.

Marceline

SweetlyHome said:

We've done it, twice.  Both times due to misadjusting the droop in the cable.  The connector is molded to the wire so you replace the wire and connector.  

Is there some reason you can't just cut off the damaged plug and replace only the plug (using the existing wire)?

SweetlyHome

I could not find just the plug at the time.  Not saying they don't exist.  Ordered replacement from Amazon the first time.  Second time bought it from an RV place, all they had was the cable and molded on connector, we were on the road with limited options.

SweetlyHome

They do exist.

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58140-7-Way-Blade-Connector/dp/B001EOWPOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500506116&sr=8-3&keywords=rv+7-pin+socket

DINDAnLAN

@Marceline, replacing the entire cord/plug is a much better solution. That way the cord end is fully factory sealed from moisture and the connections are made weather tight inside the junction box.

Ratkity

And I just bought a 7-pin plug because I want to use the TV battery to move my electric jack up and down and not use the camper battery. Just two wires into the plug. Have plug, have wires, looking for waterproof shrink wrap, have no time. LOL.

ScottG

@Marceline, while I haven't replaced that plug specifically, I have installed similar items on a variety of electrical cords. They all work basically the same way--you disassemble the housing, connect your wires to the appropriate screw terminals, then put everything back together. If you can strip wire and turn a screwdriver you should find it pretty simple!

I do agree that replacing the entire pigtail with a similar sealed type would be the best solution, but yes, you can replace only the plug. That is what the item you posted is designed for.

JustJohn

I had just the plug replaced after dragging it when the plug popped out on a stretch of really rough road. Had it done at a repair shop in Waynesboro, Va. It took maybe 30 minutes and cost about $40.00 including the plug.

Marceline

SweetlyHome said:

We've done it, twice.  Both times due to misadjusting the droop in the cable.  The connector is molded to the wire so you replace the wire and connector.  

It's a case of matching up wire colors in the connection box under the front storage box.  Hard part is you have to lay on your back and work above your head.  At least that's how I approached it. Sort of tight space within the box.

Screw driver to open the box and a nut driver or wrench for the terminal studs in the box.

Just getting around to this project. Do you remember whether you bought a connector with a 6' or 8' cable?

SweetlyHome

@Marceline,

We purchased the 8', not sure that the 6' would quite do it neatly and leave slack for turns.  Not too much slack as we did the first time.  Second was too little and it popped out of connector on car go around a right hand turn.  This is the one we purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007LL0CO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

jgram2

Does anyone else use a 4" bungee to wrap around the plug at the receptacle like we do? I think I picked that tip up here on the forum. But that was after we discovered the cord was too short to be firmly placed in the TV's receptor, traced the cable back and discovered it was wrapped around the hitch frame resting between the tub and the frame with no protection against wear. Out came the propane, the battery, off came the tub et voila, we had  ~3 feet too much cable. No problem, wrapped and zip tied the extra within the c channel of the hitch frame. I know that's one thick cable, but it looked like begging for trouble to us.

Marceline

SweetlyHome said:

@Marceline,

We purchased the 8', not sure that the 6' would quite do it neatly and leave slack for turns.  Not too much slack as we did the first time.  Second was too little and it popped out of connector on car go around a right hand turn.  This is the one we purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007LL0CO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for your quick reply.
I'm thinking about trying this one in the hope that it will be harder to drag.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5IWQLK/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I5TSD8LC9F7V&colid=77LZJK08QRLQ&psc=0

JimEngel

We set it up so that the plug can not drag, and is in easy reach. The half inch eye bolt, with a green hose section, provides a convenient handle when moving the trailer.

SweetlyHome

@Marceline, Let us know how you make out with the coiled version.  The coil appears to be a good idea between the T@B and TV but not sure how it will install between the T@B hitch and the terminal connection box below the propane storage box.  That is assuming you plan to make the connection there rather than a splice somewhere else.

Ratkity

Careful with the coiled version. The plug would pull out of my TV receptacle despite the "lock" in the pull down cover. The lock is just a lip for the plug so it doesn't wiggle out on bumps. I'm not sure it'll stay in with a constant pull on it. Just 2 cents. Take with grain of salt! Or a salt shaker... (beat ya to it @ericnliz!)