Norcold not cooling

Tabaz

I have the 2016 T@B Norcold with the guts on the left.  Compartment will not cool on shore power or propane after 24 hours on each setting.  All fuses and breakers are good (including the 3 on top of the unit).  Everything else in the trailer works fine on shore power.  Green pilot light stays lit on propane.  Norcold fan under the coils and auxiliary fans on the sidewall all work on propane or shore power.  Any ideas?

Verna

@Tabaz , since I know you know a lot about this fridge, I would think this is when you would need to contact Norcold and possibly need to take it to an authorized Norcold dealer. You might want to read Nomad's quest to have a circuit board replaced while full-timing. His experience is well documented. 

Dalehelman

You didn't mention that it is level

Tabaz

Yep it's level. But I thought it had to be level only when using propane. 

Ratkity

@Tabaz I think you're in denial. I know it's hard to admit you've run out of tricks to make things right, but I believe this is one of those times. 

Just make sure you take off your tinfoil hat when you start telling them all the things you've eliminated (but seriously, make a list of things you've checked so they don't have to repeat stuff).

Dalehelman

Tabaz said:

Yep it's level. But I thought it had to be level only when using propane. 

It must be level at all times.

Tabaz

Good to know Dale. I just reviewed Jenn's and Nomad's threads about their Norcold problems. Not encouraging.

Tabaz

Good news - it's working! I have it on a concrete slab next to my house, but in a slightly different position than usual. After reading Dale's comment, I checked the level and found the front to be a little low. Raised it last night a bit and turned it on shore power.  Nothing happened.  Went out just now and it was 36 degrees in the compartment. Lesson learned: this thing must be absolutely level to operate. Thanks again Dale.

Dalehelman

The tubing that carries away the heat runs front to back. So being level front to back is more critical than side to side. Although side to side is necessary. Over the long term it will damage the cooling unit. 

ericnliz

And if it does work when you're not level, it's a very loud operating noise!!! 

Dalehelman

People sometimes question about using 12 volt or propane while in motion. No problem. The constant motion allows the  fluid to continue to  circulate. Keep in mind if you stop for any  length of time and you are not level the cooling will temporarily stop.

ericnliz

Ha, sometimes I HAVE to stop to get back to level!!!!

RollinWithShirley

My norcold is cooling on propane and dc, but not on AC.  I hate to wait for another expensive service trip.  I haven't checked the fuses yet.  Any other obvious things to check?   I am level in the driveway.

Dalehelman

Make sure your 120 volt breaker is on. Also the fridg is plugged into an outlet under the sink. Check to see if there is power to that outlet. Fuses are under the stove top. 

RollinWithShirley

thanks Dalehelman.   Mine is a 2015 Outback 320....fuses are in the main elec. panel under the table.   I shouldn't have to turn off the battery for it to go to shore power, right? Fuses, breaker and outlet are all good.  Is there some way to tell it is running on AC other than waiting to see if it gets cold?

Sharon_is_SAM

@RollinWithShirley - the frig is wired for DC and receives power via the converter while on shorepower.  Are you sure your converter is working?  Turn off the battery while on shorepower and see if you have lights, pump, etc.

Dalehelman

@Sharon_is_SAM
Our 2015 three way fridg. Definitely used 120 volt power not 12 volts through the inverter. The fuses in the power panel are 12 volt fuses. I believe the 120 volt fuses are under the stove top. If I remember right there are 2 maybe 3. I think they are 1.5 amps. If you are getting power to the outlet under the sink just plug a light into that outlet. If it works then it’s probably the fuses onset the stove.

RollinWithShirley

I am getting power to the outlet under the sink.   But I don't see any fuses below the stove.  I am including a photo.   When I turn the frig control to Battery, the fan comes on in the electrical control panel and the frig works--even though I have the battery switch turned off outside.  When I switch the frig to AC, the fan does not run in the control panel.

Dalehelman

The fuses are on top of the fridg. I think they are under plastic covers. It’s normal for the fan to comes on under 12 volt power. They will be small glass fuses.

RollinWithShirley

my stove top is not above my fridge.  It is just under a counter.  So I probably have to pull the fridge out in order to access.  What is the likely cause?  Power surge?
Thanks so much for all your help.

Dalehelman

Sorry does your Tab have the outside kitchen?

RollinWithShirley

No.  Here is a picture of the indoor kitchen.  We don't have a bathroom, so it is a little different arrangement.  From looking at other posts, it seems that pulling the Norcold may be quite a task.

Dalehelman

Wow that is different. Looks  like the fridg will have to be pulled out to access the fuses. It only needs to come out about 8” the fuses are near the front.

Sharon_is_SAM

Thanks for clarifying that Dale!  Is that typical of all the 3 ways?  

RollinWithShirley

It seems the tricky part is vents on the front of the T@B and getting them reconnected when I push the frig back in.  I wonder if I have to do anything with the square vent on the front side of the trailer.  Is there a guide available for removing the frig? I am going to sleep on it before I take it on. And where can I get the replacement fuses?

Sharon_is_SAM

@RollinWithShirley - have you used the search function?  There is a Category specific to Norcolds here:
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6390/norcold-refrigerator-manual-guidelines-tips#latest

Dalehelman

@RollinWithShirley
I think the front vents will be a problem. The one on the side is not. I would contact NuCamp and see if they can give you some guidance. The fuses should be available at most hardware store.

Dalehelman

@Sharon_is_SAM
i am pretty sure all of the 3 ways are that way.

RollinWithShirley

RollinWithShirley

i have pulled the frig out so that I can access the fuses.  It seems that the one for AC is the 3 amp (220 on the diagram). It looks intact but I will replace it anyway.  Is that the right one for the AC?

Grumpy_G

Yes that's the correct fuse for AC operation ("the AC" is something different . While you're in there, after removing the fuse use an Ohm meter and measure the resistance across the AC heater (92) between the thermostat (96) and the junction block (219). Heater resistance should be 81.7 - 90.3 ohms.