Norcold 3-way Fridge not working on battery

KeepingtheDreamAlive

Hi All,
We cooled our fridge down using AC power before our trip. We set to DC mode for the trip. By the time we got to our campsite the fridge had warmed up to 60 degrees. Our batteries are fully charged. When we got home I plugged in the T@B and cooled down the fridge to 25 degrees. I then changed to battery mode and the temp went back up to 55 degrees. I thought I might as well check the propane mode so I reset to propane and the temp dropped to 45 degrees and stayed there. So the propane mode is working but only to 45 degrees, and the battery mode isn't working at all. I've checked all the visible fuses and nothing is blown that I can see. Any ideas what the problem on the battery might be? And why does the propane mode only cool to 45 degrees when shore power cools to 25 (not that we want it that cool.)
Thank you!
Debora

Tabaz

Search "Fuses for Newbies" for the location of the fuses under the cooktop (there are three).  It appears your TV isn't charging the fridge in transit nor is the trailer battery.  The Norcold would have just about drained your trailer battery dry during the trip (at least based on my experience).  Also, the fridge should cool below 45* on propane.  It takes a long period of time for the fridge to switch between modes.  I'd give each at least 12 hours before taking a new reading.

KeepingtheDreamAlive

Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful information.

KeepingtheDreamAlive

I took the cooktop off and unfortunately those fuses are not accessible through the cooktop opening as my cooktop is slightly to the left of the fridge and the fuses are on top of the fridge and too far right to get to them. The next step will be taking the fridge out of its space. It doesn't look too easy to get it out of there and it is of course connected to the propane hose and I don't know what else. There is an outside vent right next to the fuses. Maybe I can take that vent off (it has screws and sealant around it) and access them that way. So, I will have to wait until I have someone else here to problem solve the situation with  me. Thanks for the fuse info.

Sharon_is_SAM

@KeepingtheDreamAlive, what was the charge on your Tab batteries upon arrival to your campsite?  Did it not draw from your Tab battery at all?  Was your battery cut off switch off?

KeepingtheDreamAlive

Unfortunately we didn't check the T@B battery at the arrival at camp so I don't know if was drawing from the T@B battery. I suspect it wasn't because when I checked the temperature of the fridge before we left it was 25 degrees. 4 hours later it was 60. We don't have a cut off switch. I checked our batteries (we have a dual set up) after we got home and after we had plugged in overnight. They were fully charged and the fridge was very cold. Then I disconnected from the AC and ran the fridge on the DC mode for a few hours and the temp had climbed up to 50. I then tested the batteries again and they were at the same voltage. I didn't test the draw on the batteries while the fridge was in the DC mode. 

ScottG

@KeepingtheDreamAlive, you didn't mention the year of your T@B, but it sounds like you have a later model with the newer Norcold fridge. IIRC many of the innards on those are accessed through the exterior vents, so you may be on to something with your idea.

Pulling and replacing the vent cover is a lot less hassle than not being able to fully use your fridge. I'd give those fuses a look and at least rule that out as the source of the problem. You may be waiting a while for the identical problem to surface again here, as fridge operating issues don't come up all that much. Good luck!

KeepingtheDreamAlive

My T@B is a 2006. I've asked on the Yahoo group too but so far no specific answers. Thank you. I may try the vent access rather than try to pull out the fridge. 

Verna

@KeepingtheDreamAlive, the 2006 Dutchman T@B makes a big difference. Everyone has been giving you tips for the nüCamp T@B. Even though they look alike, there are many differences.

Photos of your fridge and a model number would definitely help us to troubleshoot. It seems that a Norcold uses a specific refrigerator model for about 3 years, discontinued manufacture of it with a new model coming out. Sometimes it’s hard to keep up with the Norcold models in the nüCamp T@B’s, and then there’s a totally different model in the DM (Dutchman) T@B. 

History:  Dutchman/Thor manufactured the US version (yes, there are European versions, too) from 2004 until 2010. Pleasant Valley Teardrop bought the rights to the T@B and started manufacturing the T@B in 2012. Pleasant Valley changed their name to nüCamp RV in 2017 prior to Little Guy leaving as the marketing arm. nüCamp now markets their own T@B, T@G and Cirrus Truck Campers. 

KeepingtheDreamAlive

I managed to get access just enough to look at the 3 fuses on top of the fridge. I'm attaching a photo of one that looks damaged but the fuse itself is intact inside.It's the 32V fuse. The fuse cover and one end of the fuse casing are burnt. What does this mean and could this be the problem with no battery power to fridge? I've also attached a picture of the fridge model info.
Thank you!
Debora

Sharon_is_SAM

@KeepingtheDreamAlive, it would be helpful if you updated your signature line to include a description of your Tab.

MuttonChops

@KeepingtheDreamAlive

Suggest you look at the Norcold 3163 Service Manual, PDF copy on this forum at:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6390/norcold-service-manual#latest

Page 11 has a schematic circuit of the DC Operation Electrical circuit

Page 12 Has a troubleshooting flowchart.  You can follow the flow with the +12VDC on using a voltage meter or you can follow the flow with the +12VDC off using an Ohm meter.

Your Pictures suggest an arcing event and fuse and/or fuse connector could be damaged.  Suggest you check both with a meter, if fuse is OK clean metal area or replace fuse. Then follow the troubleshooting flowchart.

KeepingtheDreamAlive

I will replace the fuse and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

Photomom

That's the same fridge as 2016 T@Bs with inside kitchen - 3163. There should be a thermostat control on the front - have you tried adjusting it? Also, is your T@B nice and level?

That fuse looks very dodgy. Make sure you get a fuse of the same amperage. That fridge has 3 fuses - 1 amp, 20 amp, and 3 amp, so be careful to replace the burnt one with the correct type. Can you post a clear picture of the area where the fuses are with the burnt fuse removed? I suspect there may be some additional damage.

KeepingtheDreamAlive

Yes the T@B is level and the thermostat has been adjusted. I agree about the fuse. I can't really get the cooktop off to take a picture because it is attached to hoses and supplies lines and it is actually located a bit to the left of the problem area. I could barely get my hand under it to remove the fuse and it's hard to see what I'm doing. I tried accessing it via the outside vent too, and although the problem area is right there, I couldn't see or access the fuses. At this point, I'm ready to get someone more knowledgable to help so I don't do any damage to myself or the T@B. Thanks everyone who posted info on this topic. You've all been very helpful. 

Photomom

The 12v circuit for that fridge is dead simple. If that fuse is the 20 amp one there is likely a short circuit in the DC heater or the wiring to it. Is the T@B new to you? Or has it worked on 12v for you before?

Photomom

Would you look at the fuse and see if there are any markings other than 32v? A number with an A after it?

KeepingtheDreamAlive

There are some other markings but I can't read them. Definitely not a number. The trailer is new to me, bought this winter so I'm just now using it. The fuse is definitely the one that is in the 20amp position (in the middle of the three fuses) on the schematic and clearly marked 32V. 

KeepingtheDreamAlive

One of the markings is the stamp for Canadian Standards Association. The other marking looks like a hieroglyphic backwards R combined with a U. 

Photomom

The 32v is fine for that fuse as it carries 12 volts.

You can replace it with a 20 amp fuse but I would not be surprised if it blows again when you switch the fridge to battery. Make sure the battery is disconnected and the trailer is unplugged when you’re feeling around in there, okay? It’s best to turn the fridge off and take rings and watches off too.

Do the other 12 volt things in the trailer work okay?

KeepingtheDreamAlive

Yes, I will disconnect the batteries next time. Good thinking! Yes, the other 12 volt things work in the trailer. I will replace the fuse but if it blows again I think we will take it to an RV repair shop to have the fridge looked at. It's beyond my capabilities to disconnect appliances and replace parts.

duckblind123

We recently returned from a trip and experienced issues with our fridge.  In troubleshooting after the trip, we find that the fridge does not power on when the selector switch is set to battery.  The fridge runs on shore power.  We have a 2016 T@B Max S.  The battery (according to meter on the wall) was putting out 12.2v-12.4v.  The green light on the fridge does not come on when the selector switch is moved from the Off position to the Battery position.  It does turn green when moved from Off position to Electric (shore power).  Also, I do not hear the fridge power on (no compressor noise).  Anyway, I removed the cook-top and checked all three fuses with a meter.  Each ohm'd out fine and there is no damage (discoloration) associated with any of the three fuses.  I wanted to know if there is another fuse somewhere in the chain I am missing.  I reviewed the schematic and did not see any additional fuses, but thought I'd ask.  I also have noticed (prior to the battery power issue) that the thermostat does not appear to be working as the fan under the coils does not come on.  I checked the fan with a separate 12v battery and the fan works.  So, I can replace the thermostat to correct that issue.  But, back to the lack of DC power for the fridge.  If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know.  I am going to also contact Norcold to see if they can provide any additional assistance.
Regards, 

Sharon_is_SAM

@duckblind123, do you have a 3 way Norcold or a 2 way Norcold frig?

duckblind123

It is a 3-way Norcold Fridge Model 3163.

ScottG

I can't really answer your question, but there's no compressor to hear in the three-way fridge. The cooling mechanism is completely different in these units.

The DC setting on these is a huge power hog. It's designed only to be used when the camper is attached to a running tow vehicle.

I believe the two-way (AC/DC) do utilize a compressor, and require much less power to run on DC.

Sharon_is_SAM

Is there a default cut off voltage for the frig?  I know some models allow you to select what voltage the frig will turn off to protect your battery.  

ScottG

Sharon_is_SAM said:

Is there a default cut off voltage for the frig?  I know some models allow you to select what voltage the frig will turn off to protect your battery.  

None that I'm aware of, at least not on the older 3163.

duckblind123

Thanks for the info. I replaced the 30 amp fuse (the one on top of the fridge) and it appears to be working.  The previous fuse testing fine (ohm'd out as good).  Anyway, It appears that the fridge is working (at least I now see voltage at the right points on the fridge).  I do have one quick questions - the light that is highlighted is not lit.  I do not recall if this was ever lit.  The manual shows it being lit if the propane flame is on.  But, just wanted to confirm with others if this light on your fridge comes on when it is running (on either electric or battery).
Thanks.

ChrisK

I have the 3 way fridge so yours mat be different but mine comes on only when the propane is lit.

ericnliz

@duckblind123, My light only comes on using propane. That light is the indicator light that the propane is lit & working. I have the same year T@B & model fridge as do you.

duckblind123

Thanks to all!  Yet again, this forum is a fantastic way to exchange information to solve (or prevent) issues that arise.