Twin Bed Configuration. Easy 5.5” wider bed extensions mod.

Bill@ndRox

Hello,  Did you get a chance to do the twin bed config?  Curious.  I'm not sure if  I answered both of your questions?  Bill

tteam

We will be doing it this weekend. Why is the board 5.5” wide and the. Foam 5” wide?

tteam

I think I l ow why an extra half inch, the lip in the front is probably a half inch.

Bill@ndRox

Any questions along the way, don't hesitate to contact me.  Bill

tteam

Thanks.  We got the wood set today, and now all is needed is for my spouse to sew on the fabric covers for the foam. Pretty quick and simple.  Great idea.

druthazer

I was wondering if instead of raising the rear couch you could remove the "LIP" of wood that holds the seat in place and let that "lower" the twin bed area to original height.  Not sure but likely could be removed with a chisel. Or a trim saw????  
I think removing that would not have impact on the side couches except that it could slide on sharp curves.   
***Dont most people who do this mod. Leave their twin beds down all the time and still use the couch with the wider bottom??? 
Perhaps some kind if dowel pin sticking up from the frame with 2 holes in the board in the up and in the down position could work? ?

This is a mod we are considering now that I got the Solar 2 X 100w  panels installed...  

Bill@ndRox

Sounds like an interesting idea.  Mine was pretty simple as I didn't have to cut into the existing framework at all.  I often thought that a slide in slat pull out from each side could also do the same thing and meet in the center to do away with the bundle of slats for the full size bed.  You'd still need a center support though.  I didn't task my brain too much on that idea though since we love and need the twin bed configuration that we have.  Seems perfect for us.  We usually leave one bed flat and the other side with bedding rolled up and stuffed under the back cabinet for the day.  This allows one of us to sit up and read or use the table and me to nap.  We don't bring our side cushions or the Lagun table.  Have a little Wallmart folding table that we use.  Easier to store away, even in the bathroom next to the toilet. Might be nice to have a split rear seat back cushion.  Kind of lost interest in going places during Covid and some other health checkups, but now summer is gone and think the whole summer got wasted.  Hoping to get out for one last fling this fall.  Thanks for getting me interested again in some mods.  Keep up the good work everyone.  Bill

Tampakayaker

On our mod, I used a 1x6 board cut to length of the couches.  I used the Ikea screw on legs to support the boards (had to cut the legs shorter) and then I bent some small L brackets to hook over that small lip. That keeps the board from falling over and all the weight is on the legs.  My wife made a couple of foam blocks and covered them.  We slide the mattress out to the edge of the boards and put the blocks against the wall.

Jeansor

lkc001 said:

Is it possible to get away with not attaching a piano hinge to the extra width of board, and just lay that board up against the wall only when needed to set-up the bed?  Or does it help to keep the front of the "slideout" in place or from flipping up?

I have done this mod without the piano hinges.  I used some velcro bete the slats so   and have not had any problems.

Bill@ndRox

I’d love to see some photos of this mod. Thanks, sounds good. Bill

finding_elias

Hi! I'm attempting this mod this weekend. I spent a little time at Home Depot today. I got all my cuts. One question I have is the slider poplar only comes in 0.75 thickness. Home Depot doesn't carry 0.5 thickness at all. I noticed the slats are 0.75 though. Is it ok if the sliders are also 0.75 or is that going to be a problem? Should I have gone to Lowes instead? Maybe they have 0.5 thickness poplar there?

TBullard

Great instructions.  Have a spring project now. I am assuming this also helps the Alde heat to escape through the front of the sofa as well, right?

Sharon_is_SAM

Yes as there is less to trap the heat as it exits the top of the bench.

Mcadaman

I did this mod this past Sunday in about 2 hours time.  Although my measurements were different than the OP.  My side slats were cut to 20" and the 4 slats under the sofa were cut to 40".  30" piano hinge was $15.96 at my local Lowes.  I just used 2 hinges per side and everything is nice and tight.  Having the hinges mounted to the poplar boards that I used and are on the "wall" side doesn't allow the cushions to slide and they stay in place.  Very simple, easy, and above all, brilliant mod!

Mcadaman

Even though this thread is almost 3 years old, we very much say Thank You to Bill@Rox for the best mod ever! So much better to roll over and put your feet on the floor than having to scootch off the end.

Bill@ndRox

Thanks for your comments.  We still love this mod and glad someone else does too!  Bill@ndRox

Bill@ndRox

We don't take our side back cushions with us, but I see that you can use them for the 5.5" gap against the wall.
So creative.  I never thought of that!  Thanks.

game

Am in the process of modifying the bed to two twins.   I am considering NOT using a hinge, just lay the 6" board on the back side.  I am considering "L" brackets on the underside of the original board, placed so they would keep the board from sliding outward ( and off )    Any comments welcome.

Bill@ndRox

Sounds like it may be good. I’d have to see a sketch to really understand it cause I’m so visual.

Tampakayaker

game said:

Am in the process of modifying the bed to two twins.   I am considering NOT using a hinge, just lay the 6" board on the back side.  I am considering "L" brackets on the underside of the original board, placed so they would keep the board from sliding outward ( and off )    Any comments welcome.

I used 2 L brackets screwed to the top of the extension board.  One leg of the L extends out over the board and over the cabinet lip.  At that spot I bent the leg down making a hook.  The outer edge of the board is supported by 2 cut down IKEA screw on legs

MadCityJack

Hi Bill@ndRox,  

Thank you for your write-up and detailed description/instructions along with well done complimentary images.   I completed the twin bed mod yesterday and like others I’ve put my own spin on it.  

Overview:  I used Velcro to secure all the slats under the passenger side cushion as you suggested and that seems to work fine.   I covered the top of the slats with a rubber shelving material that seems to stop the original plywood cover and new 5 1/2” insert from sliding, especially when there is any weight on it.  

I didn’t want to use piano hinges to connect the 5 1/2" insert to the existing plywood cushion base in the unlikely event that the cushion might rub on the hinge and wear down the vinyl bottoms.  Instead of using piano hinges, on one side I used two removable Command strips to connect the 5 1/2” panel to the larger existing panel and on the other, nothing.  I will soon be camping for 5 days and test out how "with and without Velcro " works. 

For the two cushions in front of the single reclining, mechanically hinged back cushion, I added 3/4” thick boards used for the slats over much of the original supportive framing rather than placing cut slats underneath the back cushions.  This approach mirrors the original strategy for supporting the cushions.  On my camper, bought used, there was already a 3/4” thick strip at the back of the camper that supports the single reclining back hinged cushion.

Lastly, I ordered online two black suede, zippered cushions, 4” (depth of cushion) x 31” (length of cushion) x 5 1/2 (width of cushion), to fill the cushion void created by the insert.  I am awaiting their delivery.  I also ordered one custom made mattress topper (2”) for me and my wife wants to use a 2 1/2” width self inflating REI camping pad.


Above: slats with Velcro.

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Above:  Slats in position (ignore Velcro in right corner).  That is lagun table top below the slats on the passenger side.  


Above:  Slats (from driver side) covered in a thin, rubber shelving material to minimize sliding of the wooden panels they support.  At top is 5 1/2" insert panel.  This was a test of concept version and when motivated, I'll clean up the installation of the shelving material.  


Above:  Instead of a piano strip I positioned a Command strip; it was first cut in half and each half attached to the insert and existing panel.  


Above: Top half of the Command strips go over top of the bottom pieces.  I left the film covering the sticky top half in place, although a piece of electrician's tape going over the adhesive would likely be more sustainable. On the driver's side, at this time I am not using anything to secure panels to one another.  With the cushion over it, I did not find it tippy, but I am about 160#, wet.   


Above:  Driver side without Command strip and with a piece of pipe insulation over edge of panel.  


Above:  Instead of pushing slats to the back, as did Bill@ndRox, to raise and support the rear bottom cushion, I secured boards (3/4" high) with screws along the original supportive structures, raising the perimeter by 3/4" to match the height on the adjacent side cushion slat supports.  I counter sunk the pre-drilled screw holes to minimize catching fabric in the screw head.  I cut the length of the boards going front to back so that they supported the framing of the cushions.  


Above:  The front board here is 48" long, but could go the entire length of the front panel.  I had already cut my 8' boards to 4' for ease of carrying in my Highlander from Home Depot, so I just used that size.   I thought it important to secure the board with screw to the existing 2x4" lumber rather than the side of the plywood panels set adjacent to the 2x4".  Consequently, the screws securing the front board are not centered. 


Above:  Although I was going to put a 3/4" board to elevate the rear of the back cushion when flat, on my camper, one was already in place (?).   The small 1/2" high scrap board shows this elevation (see middle of image against 2x4" against side wall)   


Above:  This is a close-up of that rear support board (as is) used to support the hinged back cushion when it is in the down/flat position.

Although, I like to keep my possessions "stock", I am reminded that in our homes, they become "homey" because we modify them to our own tastes.  Completing my first serious TAB modification has given me confidence to take on other projects involving changing the original TAB layout concept.  If piano hinges seem necessary to hold the pieces in place, I'll use them.  

I will report back on the success of this modification with pics of the final project, which will include the suede covered cushions.  

Please feel free to request description/images to help clarify.   Thank You Vanilla Community!

Bill@ndRox

Mcadaman,
I love your creative mod, description and photos.  Best of luck with this mod.  I think you'll love it and never be sorry you did it.  Thanks for sharing. The cargo netting is a good idea too.  I use screen door guards for ours that work just fine but do add a little more weight but maybe aren't as bendy.  They really do help things from getting lost in the abyss.  I only put things behind the seat that are in a bag with big handles or that I can grab with a long handled grab stick.  Our bedding gets rolled up and shoved in back of the seat.  A lot of the time we keep at least one of the beds made up and seating on the other.  Sometimes we just keep the beds made up for sleeping, especially when traveling longer distances.  Get somewhere, beds all ready to go, how easy is that?
Bill@ndRox

MadCityJack

Bill@ndRox said:

Mcadaman,
I love your creative mod, description and photos.  Best of luck with this mod.  I think you'll love it and never be sorry you did it.  Thanks for sharing. The cargo netting is a good idea too.  I use screen door guards for ours that work just fine but do add a little more weight but maybe aren't as bendy.  They really do help things from getting lost in the abyss.  I only put things behind the seat that are in a bag with big handles or that I can grab with a long handled grab stick.  Our bedding gets rolled up and shoved in back of the seat.  A lot of the time we keep at least one of the beds made up and seating on the other.  Sometimes we just keep the beds made up for sleeping, especially when traveling longer distances.  Get somewhere, beds all ready to go, how easy is that?
Bill@ndRox

Hi, Just to clarify, it was not Mcadaman that wrote the above but MadCityJack.   Thanks for your comments.  jS

MadCityJack

First night in our twin beds.  We like them!

GigHarborTom

We are retired, I am 82, Downsized to Condo with no work space. Wondering if we could hire someone to do a twin bed mod ?

Sharon_is_SAM

@GigHarborTom - please share your approximate location.  May help if someone is close to you or knows some handy folks.

CCC

Forgive me but are these only for pre 2022 320 S's?

scott14

@CCC, I believe this applies to models prior to 2021 320's.  nuCamp changed the bed configuration to include two pull-out extensions in lieu of the individual slats.  Someone please correct me of I am mistaken.

GigHarborTom

We would like to find someone who might be able to do the twin bed mod for us. We are located in Gig Harbor WA...Long in the tooth here at 82. Downsized, no shop or area to do the project. 

CharlieRN

scott14 said:

@CCC, I believe this applies to models prior to 2021 320's.  nuCamp changed the bed configuration to include two pull-out extensions in lieu of the individual slats.  Someone please correct me of I am mistaken.

I can confirm that our 2021 320 has pull-out extensions but don't know when the change to this occured.

We use a simple twin bed mod that provides a few inches of space between the beds, just enough to swing your legs out and shuffle to the toilet in the middle of the night. It's a 5" cushion that goes between the bench pad and the outside wall of the camper. The rear remains its full width and that's where the dogs sleep, at least when it's not too hot. Here's a photo of just one side in place: