Tow Package

SueBC

I know this was posted in another discussion, but I can't seem to find it. Getting closer to purchasing a 320S Boondock. My tow vehicle will be a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (4dr). Of course, I will need an entire tow package installed on the jeep. I have a quote that has the following:

Hitch (2 inch REC)

OEM Signal Wire Kit

Installation of electric brake control wiring  (includes all additional parts and PILOT digital controller)
Class 3 Ball mount
2” Chrome Ball
Pin and clip

What am I missing?

Sharon_is_SAM

Charge line.  I assume the OEM signal wire kit will convert from a 4 pin to a 7 pin, but you may want to confirm.

DougH

Do more folks on this forum with 320s go for the Pilot brake controller, a Tekonsha proportional, or something else?

jgram2

We use the old prodigy 2. Works fine.

SueBC

DougH said:

Do more folks on this forum with 320s go for the Pilot brake controller, a Tekonsha proportional, or something else?

Good question Doug - I have no idea about brake controllers as this is new territory for me. I was quoted on the Pilot but don't know if its good or bad.

Homebodyatheart

@DougH our car dealer installed a Curt TriFlex when we bought the Highlander. They included it plus installation in the deal.

Sharon_is_SAM

I think Tekonsha is popular, but I don’t think there is concensus regarding a certain brand beyond choosing a proportional controller.

4ncar

You may want to consider a transmission cooler.

ScottG

SAM said:

Charge line.  I assume the OEM signal wire kit will convert from a 4 pin to a 7 pin, but you may want to confirm.

+1. Be certain they are installing a fully functional 7-pin connector. It seems unlikely they would not do this, but I've learned not to assume anything. Strictly speaking, a "signal wire kit" would only require a 4-pin connector.

MuttonChops

@SueBC

AND have them explain or better show you how they did the wiring.  If you have future Tow Vehicle wiring issues it is nice to have a starting point.

SueBC

Thanks all - I might try to get the dealer to install the Tow Package, but am asking for quotes from a couple of places to see costs (and then what dealer will do) - to see which would be the better way to go.

SueBC

4ncar said:

You may want to consider a transmission cooler.

I will have to check - but my Jeep is an automatic, and am reading online that they already have one installed. I will have to take a closer look through the grill to make sure. - Good point though.

SueBC

Yes - so happy - a transmission cooler is already installed! Can cross that one off the list

RollingBnB

You also need to check which axel ratio you have since you don't have a factory tow package. Could restrict your towing limit.

JonW

I'd get a ball cover to keep grease and dirt off your clothes and hands when the trailer is not connected, and a receiver cover for when the hitch is out of the receiver (to save your shins when loading/unloading the trunk).

JandJ92010

You may want to add another transmission cooler to go with the stock one. You cannot have too much cooling, but you can have too little. It would be a lot cheaper than a new transmission. Also your alternator may not handle the added load of the battery charging, brake load, etc.

SueBC

JandJ92010 said:

Also your alternator may not handle the added load of the battery charging, brake load, etc.

I think its a 160 amp. I'm not technical, so would need to rely on others with a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport 3.6, V6 (automatic) to tell me if that's ok.  The alternator is 'buried', so I can't see it, I'm relying on specifications I'm reading online.

SueBC

Also forgot to mention - I'm planning on solar panels at some point to charge trailer battery if needed. I won't be camping in the 'boonies' much, but may opt sometimes not to have shore power. Also rather than having the fridge run on battery while driving, use ice instead. (I've read in other posts that some people find their battery can't keep up when driving with fridge running). 

rajamar

++1 on 7 pin. Make sure you include a wire (preferably 10 AWG) from your battery to the 7 pin so your TV alternator will be charging the T@B battery while driving. This can be set up in one of two ways - direct or switched so that the TV battery does not drain when you turn it off. This is only important if you run the 3 way fridge on DC while driving - in this mode the fridge draws 11.7 amps and can actually drain both TV and trailer batteries if left on while you are having a long lunch. If you have an unswitched wire from the battery and run the fridge on DC you should turn it off when stopping for an hour or two. You should also make sure your alternator output is sufficient  for that kind of load. Wiring it so the TV battery is disconnected from the trailer when you turn off the Jeep is a little more involved. Personally, since all our trips are within a few hours of home we just get our 3 way good and cold on AC before we leave and just let it "coast" while on the road. We have an unswitched wire running from the battery (with a fuse near the battery) to the 7 pin.

Re: brake controller - after reading many discussions here and reviews on the web we decided to use an Autowbrake brake controller. It is wireless and requires nothing in the TV. The "wired" controllers require a connection to the brake light switch under the dash and a wire running back to the 7 pin. The Autowbrake is basically a tiny computer attached to the T@B wired into the T@B junction box (on the front of the frame behind the LP tank and battery). When the T@B brake lights turn on the acceleration/deceleration sensors and logic on the Autowbrake determine how much "pressure" to apply to the trailer brakes (it's a proportional controller). It's only wireless in the sense that there are no wires from it to the TV. There is however, a little remote button that allows you to test and adjust the sensitivity of the brakes and allows you to "tap" only the trailer brakes to dampen any fishtailing or other misbehavior. It is elegant, but pricey ($349) info at https://getautowbrake.com/

DougH

@rajamar  Interesting controller.  In a sway emergency, tapping a button seems like it might be easier than reaching down, finding and rotating a lever.  Do you have it velcroed high on your dash? 

SueBC

rajamar said:

...TV battery does not drain when you turn it off. This is only important if you run the 3 way fridge on DC while driving - in this mode the fridge draws 11.7 amps and can actually drain both TV and trailer batteries if left on while you are having a long lunch. ...Personally, since all our trips are within a few hours of home we just get our 3 way good and cold on AC before we leave and just let it "coast" while on the road.

My thoughts exactly - have the fridge 'OFF' completely when driving. Get it nice and cold on AV first, add some ice, and should be good until next stop. I'll have a cooler of some kind any way as well.

MuttonChops

SueBC said:

rajamar said:

...TV battery does not drain when you turn it off.  . . . since all our trips are within a few hours of home we just get our 3 way good and cold on AC before we leave and just let it "coast" while on the road.

My thoughts exactly - have the fridge 'OFF' completely when driving. Get it nice and cold on AV first, add some ice, and should be good until next stop. I'll have a cooler of some kind any way as well.

While this is getting a little off-the-original-thread question/objective; My Two Cents on the Fridge.

A correctly set-up TV and managed Fridge can stay cold on 12VDC and not drain the T@B or TV batteries.

The TV needs a good Battery+12VDC charge wire to the 7-pin and the alternator in high output mode.  (On many newer TV turning the headlights on forces higher voltage output operation.)

Now when you stop for that long lunch . . . it takes one minute to open the T@B door, reach in turn-off the Fridge, and then lock-up the T@B.   One can also install a Relay in the TV to turn-off the Battery+12VDC when the TV engine is not running.

I do all three; headlights on, relay installed - - at short stops Fridge can only use the T@B battery, then at long stops turn-off the Fridge to save T@B battery charge level.  Works great, always have arrived at next campsite with cold food/Fridge and fully charged T@B & TV batteries.

Homebodyatheart

@SueBC I use a frozen half gallon jug in my fridge to keep everything cool in transit. I prechill the fridge for a day or so before I load it with cooled and frozen foods. If I leave the jug closer to the fins it actually stays mostly frozen quite a while(days) along with any frozen goods I've put in. I agree with @MuttonChops about remembering to turn the battery switch off and on in the tub. So far I've done fine. You are asking good questions! Have fun!

rajamar

DougH said:

@rajamar  Interesting controller.  In a sway emergency, tapping a button seems like it might be easier than reaching down, finding and rotating a lever.  Do you have it velcroed high on your dash? 

We have a towel on the Sienna dashboard and it sits there. But it would be a 12" or so reach and grab in an emergency. I am going to find a better place to velcro it to before our next trip. We actually discussed doing this on our first trip bringing it home, but it slipped off the mental to-do list with the onslaught of required accessorizing - locks, levelers, awnings, solar, etc. Thanks for the reminder.

Sharon_is_SAM

The hand piece for our Prodigy RF controller rides in the driver’s lap.  Although, they do not recommend using the “boost” feature for trailers the weight of our Tabs.  

rajamar

MuttonChops said:

SueBC said:

rajamar said:

...TV battery does not drain when you turn it off.  . . . since all our trips are within a few hours of home we just get our 3 way good and cold on AC before we leave and just let it "coast" while on the road.

My thoughts exactly - have the fridge 'OFF' completely when driving. Get it nice and cold on AV first, add some ice, and should be good until next stop. I'll have a cooler of some kind any way as well.

While this is getting a little off-the-original-thread question/objective; My Two Cents on the Fridge.

A correctly set-up TV and managed Fridge can stay cold on 12VDC and not drain the T@B or TV batteries.

The TV needs a good Battery+12VDC charge wire to the 7-pin and the alternator in high output mode.  (On many newer TV turning the headlights on forces higher voltage output operation.)

Now when you stop for that long lunch . . . it takes one minute to open the T@B door, reach in turn-off the Fridge, and then lock-up the T@B.   One can also install a Relay in the TV to turn-off the Battery+12VDC when the TV engine is not running.

I do all three; headlights on, relay installed - - at short stops Fridge can only use the T@B battery, then at long stops turn-off the Fridge to save T@B battery charge level.  Works great, always have arrived at next campsite with cold food/Fridge and fully charged T@B & TV batteries.

Not really off-topic. Since SueBC is having the Jeep set up for towing it would be the time to make sure to include the relay wiring if she ever wanted to run the fridge on DC while towing. Granted, it's not necessary, but now would be the time to add the extra protection from forgetting to turn off the fridge. Are you running 10 AWG wire or something even heavier?