Stovetop removal is very easy. The four corner black plastic “bumpers” under the glass are actually screw covers. Use fingernail or small pick and the cover pops off exposing the four screws. Remove screws and you can lift the stovetop and place it over the sink.
‘18 Tab 320S- mfg’d 4/17, acquired 9/17 Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4. ‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap ‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap Huntington LI
Dale, I’ve had mine off twice and found once I scraped off the silicon sealant I had no problems lining up the screw holes. But I did have a problem with one of the drilled holes being almost off of the mounting corner so I angled the screw on reassembly.
‘18 Tab 320S- mfg’d 4/17, acquired 9/17 Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4. ‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap ‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap Huntington LI
Just curious, for my own mental files... Have they stopped using the little clamp-type-thingies to hold down the stove? These were little gizmos that (in theory) would rotate under the lip of the cutout and then tighten down as you turned the screws.
In practice they were virtually useless, particularly if the counter cutout was not made to exacting tolerances. I replaced mine with solid blocks after removing the stove for the second time.
I just spoke with Elsie, who clarified that the fan kit available from nuCamp is really meant for those with the older style fridge. They haven't tested it (or determined if it's even necessary) with the newer side-vented Norcold 180.3 setup. Elsie said that if I still wanted to get the kit I'd have to pay for it, which given the above I understand.
I'm still going to pursue a fix, but I'll select my own parts instead. And thanks everyone for the tips on lifting the stovetop.
I had a 4” computer fan lying around my shop and I was able to install it from the inside after removing the stove top. I really didn’t want to break the seal by removing the outside vent. It only required one screw to hold it in place.
Fred & Victoria with Bichons Venus & Gator; On the shores of Lake Istokpoga, Florida; Tan@Bell@ 2017 Teal & White 320 S towed by a 2004 Nissan Titan and occasionally by GatorRoo, a 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6 L "It's great to be a Florida Gator!"
. . . newer models do have the cooling fins on the outside but I recently experienced countertop temps above 100 degrees on an extremely hot, humid day.
. . . Verdict- is this fan needed in the later model T@Bs with fridge side
mounted intake and exhaust vents? Probably not. Does it work?
Absolutely. Yesterday in 88-90 degree temps the countertop temp dropped 8
degrees in less than 30 minutes.
Just completed a few days of dry camping. Afternoon temperatures were 93+F and made a point of checking the fridge area for 'hot spots'.
There were two very warm spots, no idea how warm/hot but very different from the surrounding surfaces.
First - - Panel to right of fridge front, from the upper door hinge point down about 6-inches. The rest of that side panel was cool/normal.
Second - - Countertop to right of stove, another 6-inch or so spot centered on the counter front-2-back and warmest at the exterior wall.
Will monitor those locations and decide if the reduction in spot temperature justifies the installation effort & DC Amps drain for my T@B'bing style.
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
1. With the 180.3 installation (right-side heat-exchanger) are there dividers inside the cabinetry to contain the airflow? (lower and upper, to improve airflow and avoid heating the counter). The implication is (since 180.3 owners still experience hot stovetops): No.
2. Does the 180.3 perform better in warm conditions, compared to the previous 336?
3. Has anyone retrofitted a 180.3 in an earlier T@B with the 336?
Observations:
Made the following observations with our 336 on Labor Day weekend.
1. Fridge won't run on propane when under tow - flame goes out. My previous trailer ran under tow. (pop-up). Consulted friends; in their travel trailers, motorhomes, and cab-over campers, the propane fridge runs under tow. I suspect the reason it won't with the T@B is the venting on the front of the trailer, vs. the side. (In all cases, the trailer's manual says "don't use when towing).
2. At 7500' elevation, day time temps were mid 70's, night time around 50. Fridge temp varied between 40F and 50F. (Had a Campco circulation fan in it). Temps inside were probably in the 60s nighttime (no heat, just ventilation control), daytime matched outside temperatures. Norcold has the high-altitude kit. Thermostat setting did not seem to matter; more opening and closing of the fridge.
3. Norcold thermostatic fan ran intermittently, day and night. Opened the below-fridge cabinet door, and thermostatic fan operation ceased. I suspect that floor vent is too small.
I have not gotten a tab yet, but planning to get one soon. been reading quite a bit in regard to the fridge and find it kind of sad that many people have problem with it not cooling well. i think the fridge and hot water are the greatest luxury comparison to tent camping
Bringing this one back up, as I’ve been experimenting with the fridge during these warmer days. How difficult an install would this be on a 2019 (2 side vent) model for someone with little to no wiring experience?
My laser infrared thermometer is registering an 8-9 degree increase at the countertop when the fridge is running on electric on an 80° ambient day. Front shade closed, door not obstructing vent, trailer shaded under a carport. Added reflectix to the upper undersink cabinet on the outer wall and fridge sides, that did lower the temps there to match the lower undersink and main cabin. The exterior upper vent runs around 132°, so it’s certainly putting out heat. I’d like to be able to pull the excess out through the vent instead of the counter, but this sort of job intimidates me. Should I be looking for someone else to install a fan, or is this an easy DIY for someone who can manage basic directions?
2019 320s BD Lite, white with blue (“Haven”) 2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models) 2020 Subaru Outback XT Pacific NW
On my 2018 it took me around an hour to remove stove top, drill hole for switch, mount fan, wire everything and reassemble. Fairly straight forward project. I have seen 10-15 degree difference.
‘18 Tab 320S- mfg’d 4/17, acquired 9/17 Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4. ‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap ‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap Huntington LI
I'm going to jump on this thread too. I have a 2014 LG 320 S Maxx. It has no side vent and the heat from the Fridge on the inside is extreme and battles with the AC cooling and Texas heat. I have been reading all the threads on the subject but I don't see where anyone has addressed the lack of an existing side vent to add the fan kit. I am sure that due to the age of my tab, NuCamp would not cover the cost of the modification although I haven't asked yet. And I am not keen on cutting into the side of my tab. Am I missing a discussion on this? @nuCamp@digitalintrigue
(Edit) Disregard!! I am silly, I do have that vent on the door side of my tab. duh!
Comments
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
I'm still going to pursue a fix, but I'll select my own parts instead. And thanks everyone for the tips on lifting the stovetop.
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
"It's great to be a Florida Gator!"
There were two very warm spots, no idea how warm/hot but very different from the surrounding surfaces.
First - - Panel to right of fridge front, from the upper door hinge point down about 6-inches.
The rest of that side panel was cool/normal.
Second - - Countertop to right of stove, another 6-inch or so spot centered on the counter
front-2-back and warmest at the exterior wall.
Will monitor those locations and decide if the reduction in spot temperature justifies the installation effort & DC Amps drain for my T@B'bing style.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
My laser infrared thermometer is registering an 8-9 degree increase at the countertop when the fridge is running on electric on an 80° ambient day. Front shade closed, door not obstructing vent, trailer shaded under a carport. Added reflectix to the upper undersink cabinet on the outer wall and fridge sides, that did lower the temps there to match the lower undersink and main cabin. The exterior upper vent runs around 132°, so it’s certainly putting out heat. I’d like to be able to pull the excess out through the vent instead of the counter, but this sort of job intimidates me. Should I be looking for someone else to install a fan, or is this an easy DIY for someone who can manage basic directions?
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Am I missing a discussion on this? @nuCamp @digitalintrigue
(Edit) Disregard!! I am silly, I do have that vent on the door side of my tab. duh!
2018 GMC Canyon
Texas Hill Country
2018 GMC Canyon
Texas Hill Country
Definitely