Solar keeping up?

GeonTracie

So, been sitting since end of July not plugged in. Went out and put on a vent cover, 😃, and noticed my Aldi panel saying connection lost. I have the stock solar on top of my T@B and nothing turned on. I know there are phantom drains drawing juice however thought the solar could keep up. Any thoughts or am I just now to realize it won’t keep up?

Sharon_is_SAM

How is your battery cut off switch positioned?  On or Off?
How does the solar charge controller attach to your battery?  Directly?

GeonTracie

Battery cutoff switch is on so I know there is always a drain. As far as the connection I really don’t know. Was wired,from the factory.

pthomas745

What is the state of charge on the battery?

GeonTracie

Right now real low. I just discovered this so plugged in. I am still running the original battery when I bought the camper new in December. It isn’t old but also isn’t powerful. When it dies that mod will take place😁. Maybe sooner than later.

Sharon_is_SAM

Did they direct you to leave the battery switch “on” while charging with solar?  What did the voltage read before plugging in?  Was your LPG detector still operable before plugging in?

GeonTracie

I wasn’t informed of leaving it on or off. I figure that when out boondocking it would need to be on. No voltmeter, now on my list to buy, but my panel indicator was showing nothing inteligible when I pressed battery. I didn’t think of looking at the LPG detector before but noticed it running after plugging into shore power.

Sharon_is_SAM

Well, the LPG detector is wired 12 volt but the converter handles that once you are on shorepower.  At this point, check your battery water level then leave the Tab plugged in.  If you have a battery charger you can use that instead.  It may do a better job to recharge - at least a faster charge.  Only time will tell if your battery is toast.  What kind of “panel indicator” do you have?  Does it show voltage or just good, fair, low etc?

GeonTracie

Panel indicator is the SeeLevel tank monitor. Water level is good, I checked that right off to make sure all was well. Thanks for the insights, 

Sharon_is_SAM

Welcome.  The SeeLevel draws extremely low amps, so that is not a good sign.  Sorry and welcome.

GeonTracie

Well, after many days painting the house got time to work on camper. Of course the solar won’t keep up. I found I had two bad cells in the battery. Ya for not being out of warrantee

Sharon_is_SAM

@GeonTracie, are you able to use the solar to charge your battery with the battery cut-off turned to OFF?  I am not sure how nuCamp has the solar controller wired to know if that is possible.

Jilong

In my 2019 T@B purchased in July with the factory-installed solar, the solar controller is connected directly to the battery and bypasses the battery disconnect switch -- it will always charge the battery.

Sharon_is_SAM

@GeonTracie, so, it sounds like you should turn the battery switch off when not using the TaB so your solar has a better chance of charging your battery without phantom drain.

Jilong

That's what I do as well when I get back from a camping trip -- empty out the fridge then throw the battery disconnect to OFF. The solar panels will continue to float charge the battery until my next trip. I usually switch the battery disconnect back to ON the day before we leave so that the fridge can get cold again.

Sharon_is_SAM

Ok, I thought from your first post that you had left it on.  

GeonTracie

Sharon_is_Sam, yes, the solar does charge with the battery switch off. New lesson learned.

GeonTracie

I had been leaving it on and hooked to shore power while home. Bought it in December so kept the Alde at 65 in case we lost house power we could be warm. 

GeonTracie

Sorry for not posting for so long. I finally realized the solar wasn’t keeping up because the wiring was reversed. Also, since the battery was depleted so many times, my fault for not keeping proper check, 2 cells were dead. Interstate was kind enough to replace it under warranty, I changed the solar wiring and now we can last many days without a hookup. Thanks for all the responses in helping to get things right. 

Sharon_is_SAM

Glad you figured it out.  

ScottG

Seems somebody else reported a similar wiring issue in the not-too- distant past. Probably a good first thing to check if the solar doesn't seem to be charging properly on a new unit...

pthomas745

@ScottG This is about the third or fourth report of bad wiring.  There have been more on FB posts, although some might be dupes.  I bet there are more out there.  Who wires the panels and controllers up?  If the dealers install the batteries, do they also wire the battery to the controller?

GeonTracie

I have noticed a few write ups with this problem. I wish I had noticed this as a problem originally, would have saved a battery, and time looking in the wrong area for a problem. Live and learn. Positive note. We just came back from a month long trip using solar only to keep things charged and it worked great. 

klenger

Jilong said:

That's what I do as well when I get back from a camping trip -- empty out the fridge then throw the battery disconnect to OFF. The solar panels will continue to float charge the battery until my next trip. I usually switch the battery disconnect back to ON the day before we leave so that the fridge can get cold again.

On my 2019 T@B 320 S with the Norcold refrigerator, I am quite certain that I can run the fridge on LP with the battery switch OFF.  The fridge operation in LP mode is totally mechanical and self contained. 

JEB

klenger said:

Jilong said:

That's what I do as well when I get back from a camping trip -- empty out the fridge then throw the battery disconnect to OFF. The solar panels will continue to float charge the battery until my next trip. I usually switch the battery disconnect back to ON the day before we leave so that the fridge can get cold again.

On my 2019 T@B 320 S with the Norcold refrigerator, I am quite certain that I can run the fridge on LP with the battery switch OFF.  The fridge operation in LP mode is totally mechanical and self contained. 

I doubt that. Absorption refrigerators use a small burner to heat and circulate ammonia.  The burner has to be ignited, and the igniter is electrical.

Tabnero

also if you have 12 volt refrigerator, make sure it is off. Blue light will still be on but compressor can be turned all the way off

BrianZ

Our frig has a mechanical igniter that you must push with your thumb to light the propane, just like our Weber gas grills.

ScottG

I have the older model 3-way fridge. The igniter is electronic and requires 12V to run. There's more to it than that, though, because if the fridge is running on propane and I kill the 12V supply, it will turn off.

Sounds like maybe the newer models have been simplified a bit?

JEB

BrianZ said:

Our frig has a mechanical igniter that you must push with your thumb to light the propane, just like our Weber gas grills.

I doubt that too.  The button starts the flow of propane and triggers an electrical spark, just like Weber gas grills.  There’s a AA battery behind that Weber button.  Don’t believe me?  Just hold the button down on your fridge or on your grill.  If you hear click, click, click, repeatedly, it’s electrical. 

BrianZ

Thanks, @JEB, I may have misspoken then.  Will try it.
Nope, it's like I said.  Both our Norcold frig & our portable Weber Q-grill have a mechanical *piezo lighter, no battery.  You must push again to get another spark - there is a stiff spring type of resistance & then it makes a loud snap.  You cannot hold it in & get more sparks like a battery lighter.  Also, there is a separate button/dial for the propane that needs to be turned & held in.

Our larger Weber Q grill on our deck at home has the single AAA battery type igniter that can be held in.  The piezo types are a wise choice for devices used while camping, when spare batteries may not be as readily available.

* https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piezo_ignition

JEB

@BrianZ.  I stand corrected.  I have had four different Norcold absorption refrigerators and I had not seen one with Piezo ignition.  My Weber Q also had an electric ignition.  I am, however, a little skeptical that the fridge would continue to run if it had no electrical power source at all.  For example, I don’t know how the thermostat would work without electricity. But, I have been dead wrong so far.