Help appreciated...400 Drawer catch issue

ADRawli

One of the drawers in our new 400 wouldn’t close all the way.  I removed the drawer and figured out that the latching mechanism that sits at the back of the cabinet to catch the hook on the end of the drawer was not staying open upon pulling the drawer out.   Has anyone else seen this issue and is there an easier way to fix than removing and re-mounting/re-aligning the two halves that must mate perfectly to get this to work properly?  Seems like a problematic endeavor to undertake to me.  It almost feels like this particular catch might have lost function.  I can’t even force it to stay open.

This is the offending latch, pulled open by hand by me to as far open as I could get it.  When I close the drawer with it in this position, instead of seating inside the latch, the hook hits the little lever and pushes the swing mechanism closed, and then won’t allow the drawer to close.
 
 
This is a good latch, working properly, and all the way open after pulling out the drawer.


Might be I just need a new latch, but I’d thought I’d throw it out to the professional T@B community first for further insight. Thanks 

falcon1970

Is that a piece of foil tape on the catch in your first picture?  Is it supposed to be there?  I wonder if the end we can't see might be interfering with the mechanism.
Those catches are in nearly inaccessible places but it might be worth taking the offending catch off for a closer inspection.  As long as you don't mess up the original mounting holes, reinstallation and aligning it shouldn't be too very difficult.

vhollow

I replaced the latch you have described, under warranty, in my first year of ownership, for the same reason. I had the part shipped to me and did it myself, as that seemed less trouble than a trip to the dealer. This type of latch is pretty good when it works properly; better than the alternatives I saw at the hardware store. It is easy to replace, since you can use the existing holes and alignment. I have not had any trouble with the replacement latch, many miles and trips later. I don’t think it is worth trying to change the existing latch alignment, as long as the receptacle part is as far back as it will go, which it appears to be, based on the photo. Placed back farther it would in theory exert more opening force on the tongue when the hook pulls on it, but there is no room to drill more holes without shifting both pieces. Probably not worth it, since the latch most likely worked for a while and then broke.

ADRawli

@vhollow @falcon1970 Thanks for the advice folks.  I removed the offending device today and yes, it’s broken.  The little clip that pops and operates the mechanism seems to have been bent and no longer pops like the other drawers.  I started to write a note to Elsie at nüCamp to get a part number so I could then go to a dealer who could then go to nüCamp (whew!) to send me the part, and realized there were markings on the part itself. In a hunch I looked it up in Amazon, and what do you know?  In stock, less than $7, and it will deliver in 24 hours.  

Here’s the Amazon link in case anyone else finds themself with the same issue (Decorite 5838 RV Drawer Latch):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014HXSS1I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_67nXCbQDC7DA3

grsiepka

Haha thanks so much for posting this. I caught a belt loop on the drawer edge last time we were out and same thing happened. Drawer pulled out but couldn't get it back in. And couldn't for the life of me get the latch to reopen. New latches on their way. 

vhollow

In my 2018 400 the latch described above has broken and been replaced more than once. A problem we have is that we keep silverware and utensils in that drawer, which create some weight and mass issues. If we accidentally hit a dip or bump causing a sideways lurch of the trailer the latch releases and the drawer slides out under way (not at all good for the slides), then may slam back into place, occasionally breaking the latch. This time, I installed two of the latches pictured above, equidistant apart at the back of the drawer. Said drawer is now more difficult to open, but I think it solved the unwanted opening, slamming and damage issues. At least for the first three short trips taken since the fix.

falcon1970

I removed the cabinet door on my 2019 400 and installed drawers in its place.  I found that the drawer slides I used (common ones from Lowe's) have a detent to hold the drawer closed.  Since the drawer catches were so hard to install and align I left them off.  so far I haven't had any problems with the drawers opening while under tow.  I don't know if the drawer glides nuCamp uses have that same detent.  Maybe the catches are irrelevant anyway.

rhyno

@falcon1970 - do you have any pics of the drawers you installed in the wardrobe? We are thinking of doing something similar when we get our 400 next spring. 

falcon1970

@rhyno
My first thought was to simply reverse the swing of the cabinet door.  You can't reach over the door from the front to get to anything on the shelves and there isn't enough room for anyone over about 5 feet tall to kneel on the floor aft of the door.  I then decided drawers would be more useful since I wouldn't need to remove everything to get to something at the back of the shelf.  However, the lowest drawer can't be as deep as the upper two drawers because of the wheel well.  I've been debating several ways to use the wasted space behind the drawer. I didn't remove the shelf in the middle of the cabinet.  It fits between the drawers nicely.  I got the drawer glides from Lowe's and the pull handles from a place called Kitchen Source.  I had to buy an 8 foot stick from Kitchen Source.  The profile is very close but, as you can see in photo #2 it is slightly different.  The top is squared off rather than rounded as in the factory original.  The dimensions were exact though.  I first tried to buy the pull handles from nuCamp but was quoted an outrageous price.  The 8 foot stick from kitchen Source was less than half of the price quoted for two pull handles at nuCamp.  After I ordered from kitchen Source my dealer called and said there had been a mistake and quoted a significantly better price.  However I had already ordered the pull handle stock.  Check with NuCamp before you order.
I also fabricated a cutlery tray to sit on top of the upper drawer.  You can see it in position in photos #3 and #6 and removed in photo #4.  In photo #5 it is sitting on top of the counter.  I'm debating if I want to put drawer glides on the cutlery tray since it is a bit cumbersome to get stuff from the drawer underneath it.  BTW, the cutlery drawer is held in position by two brass pins at the rear.  that is to keep it from sliding off the drawer as it is opened.  that top drawer requires quite a yank to get it to open--a result of the factory drawer catches.
  
    

Verna

@falcon1970, great job!  Love the dovetail drawers, they should last the life of the 400👍

falcon1970

@Verna Thanks, I figure if nuCamp used dovetail cabinetry I should also.

Blueespy

I've had this issue on two of our t@b 400 drawers.  The first time I called Austin and he sent out some replacements.  The second time we were at a remote camp ground.  I removed the drawer, reached into the latch with a long screw driver and manually pried open the lever.  Works perfectly.  You can replace these yourself, but it's a hex nut and I used a small socket set.  Plan now is to use the screw driver technique until I get home and then if needed replace the entire latch.

RFraer

We are out camping and have had two of the four plastic drawer latches fail. The latches are not durable enough for RV duty. When I get back I will be replacing them all with metal parts.