Goal: not have it come out looking like an 8-year old did the job, which is like most other things I do. The T@B is new, and I wanted the install to look good, be clean, simple and basically invisible.
Parts list (with links)- plus some odds and ends like cable ties.
Total cost $350.
(you could save $100 by going with a PWM controller with no bluetooth)
100w Rich Solar flex panel ETFE coated, current technology, microdots imbedded for better off axis power absorption. Slightly higher voltage/lower current minimizes loses and takes advantage of the MPPT controller, reputable company, reasonably priced ($130 for the 100W flex panel).
Renogy Rover 20A MPPT controller Found the positive ground version on amazon for $52. Granted- nothing in the US is positive ground, but the whole system is floating anyway, so it doesn't matter.
Renogy BT-1 Bluetooth I don't want another display in my cabin. technology should be seamless and invisible. I'll check my phone when I want to see what it's doing.
Renogy 8ft 10AWG tray cables (controller to battery. measured distance- bought the length I needed)
BourgeRV 10ft 10AWG cables with MC4 Connectors (Panel to Controller. measured distance- bought the length I needed)
Link Solar double cable entry (for clean sealed roof entry)
3M VHB Double sided tape (super strong- holds panel on roof, and IMHO, looks cleaner than that Eternabond tape... which also looks like good stuff)
Procedure:
1. Cleaned panel with alcohol- and attached the 3M VHB double sided tape on the back of the panel. I put some additional strips across the middle, more than is shown here. seems super secure. this stuff is used to attach car mouldings.
3. Clean roof area with alcohol and Mount panel on roof (photos later)
4. Remove AC unit. Just remove the two side screws with a #2Square head, the frame comes off. Then pull the unit out and set it on the couch. The power cord is sufficiently long. Then pick a spot in front of the AC fan and behind the aluminum frame- and just far enough from the edge of the trailer and drill the hole... yeah, I know it hurts but it came out really clean (on top- the veneer splintered a bit)
5. Then thread the red and black panel cables through the cable entry cover you bought, and down into the AC compartment.
6. see that yellow 110VAC wire... yeah, shove the red and black DC power cables alongside it until they come out in the compartment under the seat. takes a little fiddling. I have to thank Adan in the service department at Tom's Camperland. I asked him what the best way to run the wires off the roof and he gave me this idea.
Like so!
The 10ft cables were a perfect length.
In the photo below- you'll see I already mounted the little black bluetooth transmitter on the wood frame on the right there- just next to the carbon monoxide detector's back. Step 7?
You'll also notice the cables coming up through the floor, right next to the clear plastic tube- which is the AC condensation drain tube. that tube goes straight out the floor and is bonded to the undersurface cover material. I drilled 2 - 3/8" holes right along side that and shoved the battery power cables right up into the compartment.
ok- so much for my steps... I'm already out of order.
Open up the driver's side of the underside cover by removing a bunch of bolts and rails the tray cables from the battery compartment.
the little red circles next to the AC drain pipe is where I drilled the holes- down from the top, where the battery wires enter. Don't drill them through the bottom cover.
The cables come out of the side of the battery, covered in that plastic cable wrap (Lowes). Then secured along the frame rail with sticky backed cable ties and up into the under-seat compartment. 8ft was perfect.
Insert and tighten the wires from the battery into the charge controller. Attach the battery wires prior to the solar panel wires.
The controller fits nicely in between the CO2 monitor and the 110VAC power outlet, with air space around for its cooling fins on the underside.
And this is what it looks like from the roof- with the MC4 connectors going into the cable entry.
Wanted it to look nice and clean. I used the
dicor lap sealant-the white goop around the cable entry; however I made one error. I thought the lap sealant was also an adhesive, like my white silicone calk is. Well- it isn't. I needed to clean it all up, (alcohol worked well), adhere the cover to the roof with that 3M VHB tape, and then gooped it up again. Not sure I'm impressed with this dicor stuff. Got it because it was recommended for RV roofs- but it doesn't seem to be all that great.
I can always add the
MC4 Y-splitters in there and run power cables across the roof to a 2nd panel when I need more. The controller handles up to 260W, and the 10AWG wires can handle a lot more.
Comments
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
I have the roof rack kit installed on my 320 and I'm wanting to mount my rigid 200W panel back there. I was hoping to find a place aft of the roof vent, but from what I've been told on other threads, there is no void there to run the wires. I want to minimize visible wire runs on the exterior of the camper itself.
Thank you!
a: How did I pick the spot to drill the hole? I wanted it to come down inside the AC cabinet area so I could snake it along side the yellow 120VAC power line that runs from the Inverter under the seat up to the AC Unit 120V outlet.
So, as you can see from the photos- it kinda' comes down in the middle of the AC box. Once the AC unit is removed, you can measure (or eyeball) its relationship to the external AC vent for positioning. As you can see I sorta' lined it up with the forward edge. Just wanted to make sure I didn't drill down into the metal frame piece.
b: How to snake. yeah- that's a bit of a snake job. Took some fiddling, but since the yellow power line is snaked through there- I knew that I could just follow the same path. Just keep poking it and it will eventually come out the bottom under the seat. It didn't require any special tricks or a stiff feeding wire or anything. Obviously- if you are going to run the power lines from the rear rack, you'll need longer than 10ft.
Anyway- I'm very happy with how mine came out. I'm a boondocker and I've yet to run out of juice. But- I do travel in the SouthWest where we have a lot of sun.
At this point, I'm leaning towards a different path for my wires, but I've gotten this far in the conversation, I am curious to better understand. :-D Much appreciated.
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW
So, 'Yes' on the heater and shower. But run your fridge off gas. LED lights and water pump use almost nothing. As for the fan- That'll suck 10Ahr per hour or more. So, use sparingly unless you have sunshine.
Some questions:
- I didn't think the tab was positive ground, so why use a positive ground controller?
- Did you consider running a second cable from controller "load" to battery compartment? My understanding is some of the charge controllers will give you more detailed information about supply/demand on your system if load is hooked up
- You mentioned not liking dicor. Do you (or anyone) have an alternative recommendation about that?
Thanks!Dave
2. I did- but, in the end, I decided I didn't care enough about counting amp-hours and being OCD about that. I don't have a lot of power needs. I just check my battery voltage and make sure I have enough. which- I know is wrong if under load.
3. I'm no expert. I've used flex-seal in a pinch on my house roof. here's a list: https://www.getawaycouple.com/best-rv-roof-sealant/
sorry my responses are a year and a half late