'18 T@B 320 U - AC cabinet top removal

bfrank

Quick question: We recently bought an '18 T@B 320 U and we want to change the top of the AC cabinet to be a seating area for our kids/dogs but more importantly an extension of the bed since I'm 6'2" and need a little more space.

Has anyone ever taken off the wood shown below in the pic?  I'm hoping it's as easy as popping the AC out and then unscrewing a handful of screws from the underside. 

Thanks! 

bfrank

I guess it seems that not many people have tried this!  Well we're boldly going after it.  I called nuCamp Customer Service and they said that there are screws coming up from the bottom so it should be as easy as sliding the AC out taking the top off and replacing it.

jgram2

Since you may be breaking new ground here @bfrank, consider photos and description-should be short and sweet if it’s as simple as that sounds. (Sorry, that was stupidly tempting fate.)

ScottG

Good call, @bfrank. The U models seem pretty rare to begin with. The likelihood of finding someone whose done the exact same work you propose is slimmer still.

Please post a followup when you get your project completed!

Mouseketab

Hmmm, what would you replace the top with? That covers the guts of your A/C. I would just extend foam over the top, and perhaps cut off the bottom of the door, so you can still open the closet. Someone had their closet door split, so they could open the top part and still extend the bed over the top of the A/C. I would love to see how that top comes off though, as I want to snake some coax through there then under the benches to have a second cable outlet on my door side.

DigitalSorceress

Mouseketab said:

... I would just extend foam over the top, and perhaps cut off the bottom of the door, so you can still open the closet. Someone had their closet door split, so they could open the top part and still extend the bed over the top of the A/C. ...

I like where you're going there.  I would think a "dutch door" split seems like a really nice way to make it work yet not make too drastic a perma-change to keep resale value high...  either "dutch door" split the cabinet door a few inches up and keep it so both parts can open individually or maybe screw the bottom part in so it is secured, but fairly easy to reverse?

bfrank

Thank you for your thoughts...  I want to replace the top because I want to make it shorter so we can slightly wrap the foam over the edge but also make it a little thinner.  I do not want to change the cabinet door because no matter what I do that will look hooky and like you said could reduce resale.  Making it look like it was originally designed that way is very important to me. 

DigitalSorceress

bfrank said:

...  Making it look like it was originally designed that way is very important to me. 

We are kindred spirits..

I have tried to ensure that to the best of my ability, my mods are either 100% no-damage / completely reversible (and yet still have some pleasing aesthetic value if possible)  or if they're not, that they look like OEM / professional installs.

So far, I've replaced the OEM battery disconnect with an A/B switch of the same form factor (so it looks factory installed) and then kludged in a Marine cooler as a second battery box in a way that is 100% reversible (used U bolts and fender washers to attach to the boondock "sledge" , I've added a hose holder to the yakima rack with hose clamps, a holder for the stabilizer jacks to the spare tire holder with hose clamps, I built a totaly removable antenna pole for my WeBoost, I made a table extension for my table using C clamps so it's totally removable and have used Command Strip mountings .. totally reversible .. I know sooner or later though I'm going to have to (gulp) drill a hole in something..  I'll have my therapist on standby...