Questions regarding the CS model

nbhms

We are considering purchasing a 320 CS, and have some questions we haven't been able to find the answers to.  I've tried the nuCamp website, various dealer sites, and the manuals on this forum site, but haven't found them.  Honestly the detail seems quite thin on the nuCamp web site compared to other camper manufacturers.

Hopefully someone on here can answer.

1.  Does the Boondock version of the CS raise the external kitchen counter height?

2.  Does the CS-S version have an air-conditioner as an option?  All interior pictures I can find of a 320 CS-S don't show an AC unit, I can only see an AC unit in the non-shower versions.

3.  Can units be custom ordered or are you at the mercy of what can be found at a dealer?  For example, we don't want a TV, either external or internal, so have no inclination to pay for it - but all models I can see on dealer sites have them.  Also we like the look of the dark stain we see in some of the pictures on the nuCamp site, but all I've ever seen on dealer web sites is the light stain cabinetry.

4.  On the external CS kitchen, what is the fridge type?  Is it a pull out bench fridge, or a standard front opening fridge?

5.  Is there cabinet storage space behind the external TV on the CS model?

Thanks for any and all answers and help.

nbhms

Mouseketab

1. Yes
2. In 2020 they have installed an entirely different AirConditioning system that is under your benches and has vents throughout the cabin. Every model, both CS-S and CS has the new A/C. On 2019 models, the CS-S has a window unit air conditioner high on the wall in a cabinet.
3a. You could probably have the TVs removed
3b. The dark stain is the new standard for 2020, so you would have to wait till your dealer gets one on the lot, or order.
4. It is a standard front opening 12V fridge (no gas)
5. If you get no TV on the outside, it is replaced with a cabinet door, and yes there is pass through storage space.

Sharon_is_SAM

1.  Yes, by about 3- 4 inches.  I saw one at uCamp.  Because the sink/stove area is relatively low to start, the increase is not extreme, however, if you are short and spend a lot of time cooking at the stove, you may appreciate a little step.

2.  The 2020 CSS has the AC centered on the rear wall between the benches.

3.  The dealers have pre-2020 model pictures!  Dark stain is standard for 2020 - who knows what they will offer next April for 2021 models!   You can order from a dealer (not sure what is optional with the 320s).  NuCamp is not permitting customization beyond their standard options as it slows down the line, however, if you want something special, your dealer can arrange to have your TaB altered by the Non-warranty Repair dept immediately post production.  Requesting leaving off the TVs may be something they would consider as part of the build as it is just a matter of burying the wires and adding a cabinet door to the rear.  Never hurts to ask.  But, that can also be done post build.

4.  The fridge is an ac/dc Norcold - I think 1.7 cubic ft?

dragonsdofly

@nbhms, one thing to consider, unless you're contemplating a death do us part purchase, is the potential resale value of your prospective t@b. Leaving the tvs off your order may suit you, but may cut the resale value. Why not purchase with standard amenities,  remove them yourself (rather than pay nüCamp to.do it) and then have the original equipment to reinstall in the future should your lifestyle change,  or for future purchasers. Just a thought.

rfuss928

I love the simplicity of my DM CS.  Much more comparable to how T@Gs are equipped these days but with a lot more living space. 

It seems you should be able to delete many of the unwanted systems on a custom order and save money and gain space.  I don't know how the ordering process works though.

nbhms

Thanks for all the answers.  We probably won't be purchasing till next year anyway, so that should put is on track for the darker cabinets.

Anyone happen to know the actual counter height measurements for the standard CS (or the boondock)?

Followup question - I see a Yakima awning as an option on the T@G - is there a similar option for the T@Bs?  If not, what do those of you with T@Bs generally do for shade/rain when camping - will the T@B door clear a standard portable/foldup gazebo?  

Same question for the out-door kitchen area - I could see it being handy if you could have the back open into a screen gazebo during the worst of bug season.

Thanks again for all the good info.

Sharon_is_SAM

PagaQue custom https://pahaquecustom.com/  makes awnings, visors  and tents that attach to the keder rail.  We have the tent which is great for rain, but gets way too hot if there is no shade.  

We have a 10 x 10 pop up that can cover the TaB completely with enough room to open the door when the canopy is at it’s highest setting - good when there is no shade available.  We use either a canopy or a Hasika/King Camp shelter over the galley.  

There is a PahaQue TaB clamshell galley tent with screens available, a few have them, but the attachment points can be an issue.  

Mouseketab

nbhms said:

Thanks for all the answers.  We probably won't be purchasing till next year anyway, so that should put is on track for the darker cabinets.

Anyone happen to know the actual counter height measurements for the standard CS (or the boondock)?

Followup question - I see a Yakima awning as an option on the T@G - is there a similar option for the T@Bs?  If not, what do those of you with T@Bs generally do for shade/rain when camping - will the T@B door clear a standard portable/foldup gazebo?  

Same question for the out-door kitchen area - I could see it being handy if you could have the back open into a screen gazebo during the worst of bug season.

Thanks again for all the good info.

Depends on the brand of the shelter. When I was using First -Up shelters, I put the legs of the shelter on waffle blocks to get it above the door. I use a combination of a PahaQue "XL Visor" over the door and a 10x10 EZ-Up over my kitchen.

I also have a set of 10x20 shelters where I put the T@B underneath one of them, then put another one next to it on the door side, then screen in the entire thing, BUT I only use that setup on trips where we are sitting still for at least a week.

The counter height will vary with the terrain you are parked on. On a level surface, I would say the stove countertop is at my waist level, and I am 5'7, BUT if your site is low in the front and you have to raise the front to level the camper, then it will be low in the back, and of course the opposite, if you have to lower the tongue a bit to level out, then the back will be high. So not a constant.

rkj__

Something to keep in mind with the counter height, is sometimes it varies a lot, when you park on uneven terrain.  If you are looking at a Boondock, I assume you will be taking it off pavement. 

We often park our trailer on fairly unlevel / sloped spots. 

If the ground at the back of the trailer is higher than the ground at the front of the trailer, your kitchen is effectively lower.  On a non-Boondock model, that could mean that taller people will have to duck under the hatch.

If the ground at the back of the trailer is lower than the ground at the front of the trailer, your kitchen is effectively higher.  On a Boondock model, this could make it very awkward for a shorter person to use the countertops. 

Example: here we lowered the tongue on our non-Bondock trailer as low as we could get it, without crushing the drain pipe, to get our trailer to sit level.  This results in the rear of the trailer being further off the ground.

.

Vikings

RBHMS...if you are still following this my suggestion relates to refrigerator.
We have a '16 CS-S.  The 'frig is an energy hog (when no shore power available) which causes many of us to somehow increase battery capacity. 
We would suggest you consider a special order with an ARB type 'frig if you can make it work. 
Substantial change to rear galley required from what I have seen...
Or upgrade battery system...Lithium-Iron may be way to go but may require different converter, and battery itself can cost $1000 vs $100.    Two 6 Volt conventional batteries can also increase capacity but also increases weight.
Yes, issues whichever way you go.   Sounds like you have time to figure out what will work best for you.
Good luck. 

rkj__

Vikings said:

RBHMS...if you are still following this my suggestion relates to refrigerator.
We have a '16 CS-S.  The 'frig is an energy hog (when no shore power available) which causes many of us to somehow increase battery capacity. 
We would suggest you consider a special order with an ARB type 'frig if you can make it work. 
Substantial change to rear galley required from what I have seen...
Or upgrade battery system...Lithium-Iron may be way to go but may require different converter, and battery itself can cost $1000 vs $100.    Two 6 Volt conventional batteries can also increase capacity but also increases weight.
Yes, issues whichever way you go.   Sounds like you have time to figure out what will work best for you.
Good luck. 

We also have a '16 CS-S.  We rarely use the 12V fridge.  We almost never book sites with electricity anymore, and the standard battery is basically good for keeping the fridge running at rest stops when traveling, but not much more.  So, the fridge is used as dry / warm storage, and we use old school cooler and ice for keeping food cold. 

nbhms

One of the reasons I was asking about the fridge type was because we already have an ARB fridge and was wondering if I could re-use it in the T@B CS kitchen.  Our current camping setup is an OZTent, ARB fridge, and propane stove.  When we are at sites without hookup I find the ARB fridge easily lasts 2+ days on a 12v battery (assuming you keep it in the shade).

Sharon_is_SAM

It will not fit in place of the current frig - you would need to change the counter and cabinetry.  Very doable if you are handy.  We had the factory do this with our build, but that option is no longer available.  You might be able to have this done by nuCamp Repair Dept. post production.  

nbhms

Sharon_is_SAM said:

It will not fit in place of the current frig - you would need to change the counter and cabinetry.  Very doable if you are handy.  We had the factory do this with our build, but that option is no longer available.  You might be able to have this done by nuCamp Repair Dept. post production.  

How do you switch between 12v and 110v in that configuration?  do you have to slide it out and swap the power cords?  Or are both power cords hooked up and you do the switch somewhere else?

Either way, I like that setup.

Sharon_is_SAM

@nbhms, both cords are plugged in and the ARB switches automatically.