Articulating hitch for 320 Boondock/Outback

System

This discussion was created from comments split from: Articulating Hitch for 320 Outback.

Tabaz

That Lock n Roll articulating hitch looks pretty cool.  Waiting for someone to install it on a 320 so we can get a review.

Luckyj

The lock N roll is a cut and weld installation.  You can take advantage of that to extend the tongue a little so that the jack gets a little further away fro. The TV tailgate.

that is what I did with my T@G and can now fully open my wrangler tail gate with trailer in tow and jack in place.  Love it.  

Tabaz

Wondering how safe a high profile trailer like a T@B would be using an articulating hitch. Most of the photos of these hitches have low profile rugged trailers. Would an articulating hitch lead to tip overs?

Luckyj

Tabaz said:

Wondering how safe a high profile trailer like a T@B would be using an articulating hitch. Most of the photos of these hitches have low profile rugged trailers. Would an articulating hitch lead to tip overs?

If you are at the point that a standard 2" ball coupler is the only thing that prevent you Trailer from flipping, you might either see your TV tip as well or the couple simply uncouple from the Tv.

i would prefer to see the trailer on it side than bothe the trailer and the TV.  But you will see other opinion on this.

Tabaz

Luckyj - points well taken. The solid axle and A/C placement high on the wall are giving me pause.  I'll call the folks at Lock N Roll next week to get their opinion.

Cherokee

Arwen said:

My tow vehicle is a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. When I was shopping for a camper trailer last year, one of my main priorities was that the camper would be able to go most places that my Jeep could go (as long as I went slow). 

I looked at a LOT of campers, including many that were more off-road capable than the T@Bs, but most were either too small (T@G size) or way more expensive than what I could afford.  I really liked the TAXA Outdoors Cricket, but there are no dealers anywhere near me (and I really didn't want to be more than a few hours away from my first camper dealer.)

I ended up with a new 2018 T@B 320S Boondock and it has worked very well for us so far. In reality, I didn't really need an off-road capable camper, just one that had enough clearance to handle the rough forest roads now and then.

What I did find is that there are camping sites in some state park campgrounds that I've backed down into (in 4WD-Low) where I'm pretty sure a non-Boondock model would have bottomed out. Very happy with our Boondock!

I am quite interested in the Lock & Roll hitch system that others have posted about in this thread.  How expensive is this upgrade?  I this a bolt on, or cut and weld trailer conversion?

We've aquired a Lock & Roll coupler and hitch. (about $150) The L&R coupler is the standard 50 degrees while NuCamp's design is a sharper angle. Typically the old coupler is removed and used as a template to drill mounting holes in the L&R coupler. On some 2018 and older T@B's, a new lower plate will need to be fabricated. I've been told that the 2019 design is an easier install. The overlapping L&R coupler can be welded to the cold rolled frame members and reinforced with short sections of steel angle to make an off-road stout connection. I'll post some images when I get it installed in a few weeks. BTW, we bought the Boondock for the same reasons you did. Glad to hear that your happy with it.    

Arwen

Cherokee said:

We've aquired a Lock & Roll coupler and hitch. (about $150) The L&R coupler is the standard 50 degrees while NuCamp's design is a sharper angle. Typically the old coupler is removed and used as a template to drill mounting holes in the L&R coupler. On some 2018 and older T@B's, a new lower plate will need to be fabricated. I've been told that the 2019 design is an easier install. The overlapping L&R coupler can be welded to the cold rolled frame members and reinforced with short sections of steel angle to make an off-road stout connection. I'll post some images when I get it installed in a few weeks. BTW, we bought the Boondock for the same reasons you did. Glad to hear that your happy with it.    

Thanks for the information! Looking forward to your seeing your photos after you get this completed.

Tabaz

I just ordered the Rock N Roll 504 (trailer side) and 501 (vehicle side) components for $314.  I was quoted a $75 fee (from a local welding shop that specializes in trailers) to remove the existing hitch and weld the 504 to the frame.  Hopefully I'll see Cherokee's install before I take mine in next week.

Tabaz

Just love the spell check on this forum. I typed in Lock N Roll and got Rock N Roll.

Luckyj

This is not a Lock and Roll, bit similar action desigh.  But this is a hitch tube installation on the trailer.  But in this case on a T@G and going from from to back of trailer frame, acting also as a reinforced back bone for rear anchor point

original installation



Shorter lenght that can still be lenghted with a tube extension



Jack leg relocated to the side and also higher too completely clear the tube flush with the frame.  Also easier to install remove the jack wheel.


Rear part of the tube that act as a recovery point and back bone for the trailer frame.

Trailpixie

I think the lock and rolls are probably overkill for the T@B Boondocks. 

The linked thread below resolved the debate for me when it came to specialized off road hitches. I think the standard ball hitch is enough for anything you should be doing with a T@B Boondock.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/limitations-of-the-ball-hitch.129893/post-1638088 

The T@Bs aren't offroaders. They are optimized for rough dirt and gravel roads, but for the most part, you can take the regular T@B down lots of the same roads. All that extra clearance we have on the Boondocks is actually more rope to hang ourselves. Using all that clearance to take our T@Bs too far off-axis (leaning over) is a bad idea. The wood structure of the camper will bend and torque in ways that will quickly destroy it.

I think the value of the boondock/outback is in larger sturdy tires and the pitched axle. The small amount of suspension travel helps to reduce the stress of all that bouncing around. The larger tire radius reduces the impact of bumps. With that said, When I finally do replace the tires on the camper, I will probably size the tires down a little bit ....though admittedly, I will probably keep them knobby, because they look cool.

Tabaz

Just received the Lock N Roll 504 trailer hitch plate.  It does not even come close to fitting my 2016 Outback frame. Will be sending it back for an alternative. BTW, the folks at Lock n Roll are very helpful. Interested to see Cherokee's install.

Tabaz

Thought I'd start a new thread on this issue.  Perhaps a moderator can grab the other posts from the "off-road" thread.  (Done!)

Sent back the Lock N Roll (LNR) 501 and 504 units.  The 501 (vehicle side) would not have enough drop while the 504 triangle plate did not even come close to fitting my 2016 T@B 320 frame configuration.  Found a local welding shop who will make a new 1/4" steel bottom plate for the LNR 510.  The 510 will be welded to the new plate.  Will take the current plate with the ball hitch to them for use as a template.  Quoted price for plate and welding $190.  Costs for project: 510 vehicle side with 4" drop = $158.  510 trailer side = $101.  Custom welding = $195.  Total $454 plus about $30 more in shipping.  Was shocked to pay USPS $100 to ship the old parts back to LNR. Ouch! (their stuff is really heavy and very well made).  Ralph and his brother Greg at LNR have been super helpful with this project.  Photos as soon as everything starts coming together. Can't wait to see Cherokees' install photos!

Jeege

Can’t get the hitch down on the ball on our 2017 outback...any ideas?

pthomas745

Try the first couple of threads here. 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&ei=y2MjXbfwJvyT0PEPuealmA4&q=hitch+won't+lock+to+ball+site:tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com&oq=hitch+won't+lock+to+ball+site:tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com&gs_l=psy-ab.3...3098.10253..11212...1.0..0.110.2584.36j3......0....1..gws-wiz.h4jKYg-pAPc

Sharon_is_SAM

@Jeege - if you mean the coupler latch won’t lock over the ball - you need to make sure the ball is seated well in the well of the coupler.  Try to rock the TaB by pulling and pushing with the TaB handles.  Oftentimes, you will hear/see the coupler seat, then you can latch it.

Tabaz

Ready to install.  Took the Lock n Roll trailer side hitch to a local welding shop.  They cut the hitch to accommodate the opening for the tongue jack and also fabricated a matching base plate using the factory hitch (in rear of photo) as a template.

They did a very nice job matching the factory plate and only charged $75.  Much heavier than the factory set up.  Will install it this weekend and post photos.

Tabaz

The Lock N Roll components are much beefier than my current set up. Stock Ball is 11 pounds:


Lock N Roll replacement "ball" is 18 pounds:

Stock T@B 320 hitch is 10 pounds:

Lock N Roll is 12 pounds:

Installation was a snap.  Will take the trailer out tomorrow morning for a test run on some dirt roads.  Photos to follow.

Tabaz

Note to self: If you want to take pictures of rough terrain, you need someone outside the vehicle while your trans-versing said terrain! Took the T@B out with the new articulation hitch this morning.  Had to go into 4H at spots because of the incline and ruts.  Did not feel comfortable stopping in a rut to get a picture only to be then stuck in that rut.  Went down several roads that I would not have felt comfortable with the old hitch.  Biggest takeaway for me is this new hitch is a "confidence builder."  The trailer felt more "fluid" going over peaks and valleys.  I realize the Boulder Crawling crowd may think this is child's play, and they'd be right.  Call me crazy, but I have a renewed sense of adventure knowing that the only limitation is now my stock Ford Expedition.  I Really like this hitch.  Can't wait to read Cherokee's opinion on his mod.





Went through the ruts to see how the trailer would respond. Did a great job of bobbing and weaving on its own.

This felt like it was going straight up! Really.

4ncar

This road doesn’t look to call for it, but save your torque converter & trans and use 4 LOW if you are to attempt a “rut” or other challenge that will require the truck to really pull. You can not drive fast(no more the 25 mph usually) but you will see how much more you can do when using 4L. FYI 

Cherokee

Arwen said:

Cherokee said:

We've aquired a Lock & Roll coupler and hitch. (about $150) The L&R coupler is the standard 50 degrees while NuCamp's design is a sharper angle. Typically the old coupler is removed and used as a template to drill mounting holes in the L&R coupler. On some 2018 and older T@B's, a new lower plate will need to be fabricated. I've been told that the 2019 design is an easier install. The overlapping L&R coupler can be welded to the cold rolled frame members and reinforced with short sections of steel angle to make an off-road stout connection. I'll post some images when I get it installed in a few weeks. BTW, we bought the Boondock for the same reasons you did. Glad to hear that your happy with it.    

Thanks for the information! Looking forward to your seeing your photos after you get this completed.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9352/lock-roll-hitch-coupler#latest

Cherokee

Tabaz said:

Note to self: If you want to take pictures of rough terrain, you need someone outside the vehicle while your trans-versing said terrain! Took the T@B out with the new articulation hitch this morning.  Had to go into 4H at spots because of the incline and ruts.  Did not feel comfortable stopping in a rut to get a picture only to be then stuck in that rut.  Went down several roads that I would not have felt comfortable with the old hitch.  Biggest takeaway for me is this new hitch is a "confidence builder."  The trailer felt more "fluid" going over peaks and valleys.  I realize the Boulder Crawling crowd may think this is child's play, and they'd be right.  Call me crazy, but I have a renewed sense of adventure knowing that the only limitation is now my stock Ford Expedition.  I Really like this hitch.  Can't wait to read Cherokee's opinion on his mod.





Went through the ruts to see how the trailer would respond. Did a great job of bobbing and weaving on its own.

This felt like it was going straight up! Really.

Cool shots and Yes, these hitch/couplers they are stout and heavy but your coupler is much lighter then the 504 I had to go with on NuCamp's 2019 design.

Tabaz

Please note the removable tongue jack I have. Designed and built by a former forum member,Pop-T@B, was available for sale on the teardrop shop website, but apparently no longer. Great device for added clearance in the rough stuff, Similar, but IMHO, much better than the Jack E Up.

Cherokee

Arwen said:

Cherokee said:

We've aquired a Lock & Roll coupler and hitch. (about $150) The L&R coupler is the standard 50 degrees while NuCamp's design is a sharper angle. Typically the old coupler is removed and used as a template to drill mounting holes in the L&R coupler. On some 2018 and older T@B's, a new lower plate will need to be fabricated. I've been told that the 2019 design is an easier install. The overlapping L&R coupler can be welded to the cold rolled frame members and reinforced with short sections of steel angle to make an off-road stout connection. I'll post some images when I get it installed in a few weeks. BTW, we bought the Boondock for the same reasons you did. Glad to hear that your happy with it.    

Thanks for the information! Looking forward to your seeing your photos after you get this completed.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9352/lock-roll-hitch-coupler#latest

Cherokee

A Lock & Roll hitch in action: