Renogy controller error message??

tombeaux

I have a Renogy suitcase solar setup with the Voyager 20A controller. It worked great for multiple uses. Now the controller just blinks with the b01 error code. I've checked all connections and even reconnected a couple of questionable areas. Battery checks good. The error flashes on the controller whether connected to battery or not. Buttons to select the battery type and the Volt/Amp buttons are NOT responsive. I sent an email to Renogy tech support about 8 hours ago and no response yet. I thought someone in this group might have run into the same issue.

pthomas745

Here is the instruction manual.  It has the error messages on page 11 but the description seems a bit cryptic.

https://www.renogy.com/template/files/Manuals/RNG-KIT-STCS-100D-VOY20.pdf

tombeaux

Pthomas745 - I’ve got the manual and read that. It just doesn’t tell me how to troubleshoot.

Cbusguy

Either you have a blown fuse, open wire or a flat battery.    the error is battery voltage less than 3 volts.    

without a volt ohm meter.....
sooooo, a thought would be to hook the solar suit case to say your car battery and check the error code......if you still have it then the trouble isn't in the trailer.   If the code goes away then it is probably a blown fuse , open wire or bad battery in the trailer. 

are you using that zamp connector?  the polarity of that connector is backwards compared to the rest of vendors.

with a volt ohm meter.
test the battery voltage where ever you plug the suit case into the trailer.....no voltage,  blown fuse or open wire.    

Sharon_is_SAM

@Cbusguy, smart to check it against the car battery.  
@tombeaux If you eliminate the trailer as an issue, maybe change the fuse in the positive line that attaches to the battery.  Seems like there may be a fuse on the panel wires, too.

HellFish

Friend of mine just had the same thing.  His battery was dead...had to charge the battery, then all was well.  He talked to Renogy and they confirmed.  This was yesterday.

ScottG

Agree with all the above. In a nutshell it sounds like your controller is not "seeing" a sufficiently charged battery at the end of the line.

If you don't have a multimeter, get one and learn how to test DC voltage and continuity. You can't diagnose properly without good information.

Disconnect the battery entirely and check its voltage. If it's below 3V try charging the battery with a charger that doesn't have a minimum voltage requirement. Regardless, if this is the case you will most likely need to replace the battery.

If the battery is above 3V, check for continuity on both of the lines between the controller and the battery. If one or both are discontinuous, recheck all connections, including the fuse on the positive line from the controller.

tombeaux

The battery monitor in the T@B shows 12.6 volts. I’ve gone over the connections and replaced the inline fuse. I’m stumped on this one. I’ll try hooking to a car battery and see what happens.

Cbusguy

How do you hook the suit case to your trailer?

tombeaux

This is how I connect. Wires in the photo  attach to the batter terminals and then the plug runs up through a hole I drilled in the battery box. Easy to plug in. It turns out the culprit was one of the MC4 connectors supplied by Renogy. I took the MC4 apart, put it back together and everything is good. That begs the question... do the MC4 connectors serve a purpose other than connecting? I’m NOT a fan.

ScottG

MC4s are supposed to be weather tight (or at least resistant).

tombeaux

SUCCESS! Thank you to those who offered suggestions. It turns out one of the MC4 connectors supplied by Renogy was not connecting (even though the outer plastic was fully seated and latched). Took it apart, tested the connector without the plastic shell, put it back together and it works. I’m not a fan of the MC4s and I’m wondering why they are used.

tombeaux

ScottG said:

MC4s are supposed to be weather tight (or at least resistant).

Thanks, and thanks for your earlier suggestions. I connected the unit to a battery used in my car and used the multimeter to check power from the battery. I checked all my splices. I just assumed there wouldn’t be any issues with the MC4s. Bad assumption.

ScottG

Glad you got it fixed in either case. This is a case where a multimeter with a continuity tester comes in handy--it can help you locate the break in the circuit without having to physically inspect every possible connection.

I wonder if you can snug up the connector inside the plastic shell with a gentle squeeze from a crimper or pliers?

pthomas745

I am a member of the Anti-MC4 Club, too.  I use SAE plugs from the controller to the "Zamp" port on the trailer. 

BrianZ

@tombeaux, you had me confused with your photo of SAE connectors, while the caption below it talks about MC4 connectors being faulty.  Glad you got it figured out.