One of the drawers in our new 400 wouldn’t close all the way. I removed the drawer and figured out that the latching mechanism that sits at the back of the cabinet to catch the hook on the end of the drawer was not staying open upon pulling the drawer out. Has anyone else seen this issue and is there an easier way to fix than removing and re-mounting/re-aligning the two halves that must mate perfectly to get this to work properly? Seems like a problematic endeavor to undertake to me. It almost feels like this particular catch might have lost function. I can’t even force it to stay open.
This is the offending latch, pulled open by hand by me to as far open as I could get it. When I close the drawer with it in this position, instead of seating inside the latch, the hook hits the little lever and pushes the swing mechanism closed, and then won’t allow the drawer to close.
This is a good latch, working properly, and all the way open after pulling out the drawer.
Might be I just need a new latch, but I’d thought I’d throw it out to the professional T@B community first for further insight. Thanks
Alan & Natalie McKinney, TXnüCamp: 2019 T@B 400 Boondock Lite
TV: 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk 4x4
Dream big... work hard... never give up.
Comments
Those catches are in nearly inaccessible places but it might be worth taking the offending catch off for a closer inspection. As long as you don't mess up the original mounting holes, reinstallation and aligning it shouldn't be too very difficult.
Here’s the Amazon link in case anyone else finds themself with the same issue (Decorite 5838 RV Drawer Latch):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014HXSS1I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_67nXCbQDC7DA3
nüCamp: 2019 T@B 400 Boondock Lite
TV: 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk 4x4
Dream big... work hard... never give up.
My first thought was to simply reverse the swing of the cabinet door. You can't reach over the door from the front to get to anything on the shelves and there isn't enough room for anyone over about 5 feet tall to kneel on the floor aft of the door. I then decided drawers would be more useful since I wouldn't need to remove everything to get to something at the back of the shelf. However, the lowest drawer can't be as deep as the upper two drawers because of the wheel well. I've been debating several ways to use the wasted space behind the drawer. I didn't remove the shelf in the middle of the cabinet. It fits between the drawers nicely. I got the drawer glides from Lowe's and the pull handles from a place called Kitchen Source. I had to buy an 8 foot stick from Kitchen Source. The profile is very close but, as you can see in photo #2 it is slightly different. The top is squared off rather than rounded as in the factory original. The dimensions were exact though. I first tried to buy the pull handles from nuCamp but was quoted an outrageous price. The 8 foot stick from kitchen Source was less than half of the price quoted for two pull handles at nuCamp. After I ordered from kitchen Source my dealer called and said there had been a mistake and quoted a significantly better price. However I had already ordered the pull handle stock. Check with NuCamp before you order.
I also fabricated a cutlery tray to sit on top of the upper drawer. You can see it in position in photos #3 and #6 and removed in photo #4. In photo #5 it is sitting on top of the counter. I'm debating if I want to put drawer glides on the cutlery tray since it is a bit cumbersome to get stuff from the drawer underneath it. BTW, the cutlery drawer is held in position by two brass pins at the rear. that is to keep it from sliding off the drawer as it is opened. that top drawer requires quite a yank to get it to open--a result of the factory drawer catches.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”