Bearings service past recommended mileage.

jules2go · May 2021

For my 2020 Tab it appears that this is supposed to be done at 2500 miles, but I'm leaving on trip in 4 weeks and can't get an appt for it in time. I'm at around 2000 miles currently and it has never been done. My upcoming trip is for 6-7 weeks and one way is about 1500 miles. I'm headed for NM and CO and by the time I'm back in NC will be maybe 3700 miles completed on that trip. Should I try and find a mobile RV repair/service place out there, or schedule something now for when I get back? How concerned should I be about the trip out and exceeding the 2500 miles before I get there?

And along those lines, does anyone have a recommendation for a service place in Santa Fe, NM? Thank you.

(Edited title for future ease of future search — Verna T@B Admin)

ScottG · May 2021

@jules2go, can you at least refresh the grease using the EZ-Lube zerk? While that doesn't allow for a complete inspection, it will at least ensure you are hitting the road with sufficient fresh grease in those bearings.

pthomas745 · May 2021

Santa Fe RV is a Tab dealer.

https://www.santaferv.com/service

Remember: any utility trailer company that services trailers can do this sort of maintenance.

jules2go · May 2021

@ScottG
I have no idea how to do any of that. I suppose I can learn if it doesn't involve a bunch of tools and dismantling parts LOL. I will think about that. Thanks.

jules2go · May 2021

pthomas745 said:

Santa Fe RV is a Tab dealer.
https://www.santaferv.com/service

Remember: any utility trailer company that services trailers can do this sort of maintenance.

OK! Maybe I can get this done somewhere before I go then. I'll call them over at SantaFeRV as well. Thank you x 2!

Michigan_Mike · May 2021

According to Dexter Axles schedule:

Along with bearing adjustment, proper lubrication is essential to the current function and reliability of your trailer axle. Bearings should be lubricated every 12 months or 12,000 miles.

jules2go · May 2021

I found a place to do it before I leave. For some reason I was thinking it had to be done by an RV repair place. Thank you!!

Sharon_is_SAM · May 2021

I have never heard that you need to do anything with your bearings at the 2500 mile mark. I have only ever heard 12,000 miles or annually.

jules2go · May 2021

@Sharon_is_SAM

I really thought I read that somewhere. That doesn't seem like very far to me, either.

webers3 · May 2021

2500 miles, really?

tabiphile · May 2021

Lubrication with so few miles seems very odd....As noted by @Sharon_is_SAM, this is an annual or 12,000 mile service. What is more important is to check that the brakes are properly adjusted. That is normally done after a short break-in period. Your T@B has passed that number of miles. The lug nuts should also be re-checked for torque within 40 or 50 miles of any wheel service (TV's and T@B's alike) and again after another 100 or so.
You should learn (if you don't already know) how to check the wheels during a trip. A hot wheel or bearing is an early warning of possible bearing problems. If you are taking this to a shop for service ask them to show you how to check the bearings.

jules2go · May 2021

tabiphile said:

You should learn (if you don't already know) how to check the wheels during a trip. A hot wheel or bearing is an early warning of possible bearing problems. If you are taking this to a shop for service ask them to show you how to check the bearings.

Please tell me what I should be looking for when checking wheels during a trip in terms of your message. What's a hot wheel or bearing? I am at one year of ownership about now, so I will plan to get it all looked at before I leave. Thank you.

tabiphile · May 2021

@jules2go...some folks use an infrared thermometer to check bearing/wheel heat. Check them cold. Check them after 100 miles. Check them every time you stop. Keep track of the temperature range and simply look for a big and unexpected change. After a while you'll get a feel for what is good and what is not....
Most folks who tow are in the habit of checking the wheel/hub temperature by hand, not using an infrared thermometer. Use the same tactic. Feel the hub and wheel after 100 miles and every time you stop. You'll get a sense for the norm. If a wheel ever get's too hot to put your hand on start thinking about a recovery plan.
Back to the bearing service....low miles but you have had the T@B for a year? Get the bearings serviced.

DougH · May 2021

@jules2go I'm glad you found a place to take care of it for you. But search YouTube for Dexter EZLube. You can do it! Just get a decent grease gun, a jack, a torque wrench, the right size socket, and a couple canisters of high quality grease. You need three of those for flat tires anyway. A lot of us alternate grease colors so we can more easily tell when we have pushed all the old stuff out. The worse thing you can do though is try to go too fast, or not turn the wheel as you're gradually pushing in the new grease. Most RV dealers have seen plenty of people blow out the rear seals and ruin their brakes and a $20 annual maintenance item turns into a $750 repair.

tabiphile · May 2021

DougH said:

You can do it! Just get a decent grease gun, a jack, a torque wrench, the right size socket, and a couple canisters of high quality grease. A lot of us alternate grease colors

Agreed...this is one you can do and you will need these tools for checking the lug torque, replacing a wheel, topping off the bearings etc.
But, ad in the usual warnings about not mixing different grease types.....mixing greases will result in the grease binders separating and the grease running out of the hubs when it warms...yada yada...
Always use the same grease type following a re-pack... a reason I never use the alemites for the first the service...I remove the bearings, clean and hand pack with a grease I know will continue to be available and use that grease ongoing. If you have a shop do this for you have them tell you exactly what grease they used and buy some of it to use in your grease gun.

cottonmouth · May 2021

Do most of you use the EZLube system or do a complete repack? Here's Creed's advice with a link to Dexter that describes a complete repack.

https://nucamprv.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/44001817245-repacking-wheel-bearings

Horigan · May 2021

I'm leary of easy lube systems. It's very easy to blow out the rear seal and end up with grease in your brakes. I just repack them, which can be done manually or with a bearing grease packer.

ScottG · May 2021

I'm leary, too, @Horigan --I grease via the EZLube annually but I plan to fully service my bearings soon and will be curious to see the condition of my rear seals.

But I'm also kinda' lazy. So, leary, lazy, leary, lazy. Decisions, decisions. You can probably predict which one usually wins. I like my EZLube! ;-)

Sharon_is_SAM · May 2021

@cottonmouth - the EZ Lube feature has created a lot of confusion because Dexter uses the term “repack” for both the traditional complete bearing inspection, cleaning and relubrication of the wheel hub as well as for use of the EZ lube. So, the question always comes up, if Dexter and nuCamp recommends the traditional bearing service, when exactly do you use the EZ lube system?

Since so many TaBs are lightly used and average annual mileage is about 3,000/year, you would think you can get away with an every other year service. But, apparently, as a trailer sits for long periods, the grease breaks down and can result in an under-lubed bearing. So, if you are comfortable not knowing the condition of the bearings, you can use the EZ lube system. Another way that the EZ lube may be useful is if you are in a lot of dust or regularly driving through heavy rains, you can relube at intervals watching for traces of metal in the old lube. The issue of blowing out a seal seems to be unlikely using a hand grease gun. I wouldn’t trust a shop to use the EZ lube system.

When we first got the TaB, we had very limited mileage and we used the EZ lube system. We now understand all the unknowns and we have it traditionally repacked annually. I think it is cheap insurance to increase the chance of trouble free travel.

jules2go · May 2021

I'm just not sure I'm up for the task of doing all of this on my own, so I think taking it to the shop will be better. If I get a flat, I'm calling AAA. I need to pick up a torque wrench. When I take it to the shop for repacking, I'll ask them for a hands-on demo of using a torque wrench.

DougH · May 2021

I like the kind that beep at me...

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/12-in-drive-digital-torque-wrench-64916.html

jules2go · May 2021

DougH said:

I like the kind that beep at me...

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/12-in-drive-digital-torque-wrench-64916.html

Thank you for this suggestion. How much muscle does this thing require? I have terrible hand/arm strength.

DougH · May 2021

You need some. It's Geometry? Physics? Whatever that stuff was in school in the last millenium. Most lug nuts want to be tightened somewhere between 85 and 100 ft lbs. With a 1 foot torque wrench you need to stand on it practically to get to 100 ft lbs before it clicks or beeps to say you've hit the number. With a 2 foot torque wrench you need "only" 50lbs of force to reach that number. A 3 foot one drops it to 33lbs. I dont think they commonly sell 4 foot torque wrenches though. That Quinn is overkill unless you get a coupon, and it's on sale, as it measures in various units and does force and angle, and beeps and remembers your birthday. You can get a simpler 3 foot torque wrench that you adjust to 100lb and it clicks when you reach that number for $50 or so.

I know some folks who rotate the wrench so it's near horizontal, then they gently step on it with increasing force until it clicks. No arm strength required.

Verna · May 2021

@DougH, we “girls” weren’t necessarily taught about these torque wrenches before we owned campers. I never heard of one until I bought my Silver Shadow in 2013. We have to learn, and thanks for your directions.

Dalehelman · May 2021

Our 2015 320 is going on 6 years. Just finished a 3000 mile trip through Calif. AZ. Nev. temps in the high 90*. I have never repacked our bearings, and do not plan to. I annually and before a long trip add fresh grease through the hub zerk fitting. I lift wheel of the ground while adding grease spin the wheel listening for any grinding sound. Not to be confused with brake shoe contacting the brake drum. Then grab the wheel and wiggle side to side and top to bottom. There should be very little or no play. As for heat place your hand on the center hub, around the lug nut area, and the tire. If it is to not to hot to touch for 5 to 15 seconds your OK. I usually check every time I fuel. If I remember.

lkc001 · May 2021

What is the recommended torque on the lug nuts on a 2017 Tab 320S?

Horigan · May 2021

For those that do use the EZ lube system, be sure to raise the tire and have it slowly spinning while pumping in grease SLOWLY.

tabiphile · May 2021

lkc001 said:

What is the recommended torque on the lug nuts on a 2017 Tab 320S?

Torque to 90 foot pounds or thereabouts (92/93ish, unless your wrench is calibrated they will vary). Do not tighten one after the other, skip to the opposite nut each time. Re-check the tightness after 50 or so miles and again after 100. Don't let anyone try to convince you that they can "get em right" w/o a torque wrench". They can't. What they can do is get them to where they think they "feel pretty good" but if you actually check them they will vary 5 to 10 pounds if not more and they will almost always come up short of where they should be.
If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten to one turn short of breaking the stud

lkc001 · May 2021

@tabiphile thanks for the info

tabiphile · May 2021

@ikc001 You are welcome. Try to stay away from beam wrenches if you need to buy one. Price wise they might seem attractive but they are not reliable or accurate. Buy one that has a nice long handle so that it can take the place of a breaker bar in your road gear. I'm of the opinion that everyone who owns a car should own one. Any time that you have you car serviced and the wheels removed, rotated, brakes done whatever you should be re-checking the lug nut torque within a few days of driving (50 or so miles) and again in another few days. Most good shops offer to do this (should) for you but who do you know who actually returns to get the lug nuts checked. Do it yourself...you will be amazed at how inconsistently many shops tighten the lug nuts. Sometimes they are too tight, sometimes to loose, sometimes one or two are loose...it's crazy. Point being, pay the same amount of attention to your TV.

dlb · May 2021

Years ago a tire place said to me since you have aluminum rims you should re-torque them in about 100 miles. Since then all the rims we have are aluminum….. 4 rims x 5 lugs x 4 vehicles + 2 trailers…. This math is getting complicated….

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